Richard Y

Yes it's the same stock tube on the m4 next gen as the 416 next gen

Thats all normal, the issue is your piston head, its tm and non vented which means your o ring will not widen when the piston is released. Its soley reliant on the o ring being wide enough in the first place. 3 options.. Promy piston head for next gen series. Take the TM piston head o ring off and place it around the brass cylinder. now using a light underneath, gentle heat the o ring for a few mins, and leave for 1 hour. The o ring will now hold a slightly larger size and the heat makes it maintain this longer. you WILL see a bump in fps and consitency. thirdly looking at

Yup, as i say the issue sounded shimming related, unfortunatly over the years ive had to evole shimming methods, and often it can involve "telling" the customer no to certain guns and or parts. Simply becuase of the potential for compatibility issues verses time to get a good shim. All bushings are different sizes in height, both overall height and height of the "lip" which protrudes. you want to feel a "pop" of press fit as the bushing pushes home all the way in. Theoretically at this point there should be no fouling of the external bushings, especially if its prometheus as they are tried

Theres lots of owners on the recoil appreciation facebook group that have installed spring guide and barrel, on stock spring and gotten up to 320 fps from what ever the gun was stock usually between 290 sopmod and 300 scar. its usually about 5 - 10 with spring guide as a rule. 5 - 20fps with barrel depending on bore, but with the new barrel types some being 6.20 mm in diameter we will see a decline in fps. as a general rule you can install all internal gearbox upgrades to an AEG and see a 3 - 6% increase in overall FPS. doesn't sound much but a 5% increase on a standard spring

From btc no Daubt, I reckon half his stock never makes it to the website.

Yeah when testing a Sopmod I leave the wires loose and poke the ends into a battery... Tamiyas works great for that. I just screw the stock tube back on for testing. It has to work fine before introducing stock and recoil weight. The stock can introduce extra issues if there's a poor connection. It's best not to test with it ever on Sopmod / cqb / hk416

Kanzen 6mm are utter rubbish .. Remove them from any gun you find. Japan promy bearings are the only bearing that's never failed. Kanzen even emailed me to tell me they arnt fit for purpose. The more people start passing it round the better. I always unsoldier the wires, undo the castle nut and slide the wires through it's the only way to prevent rubbing the Teflon coating off during a problematic Sopmod and I've had them The shs pistons a pain in the *albatross*, it needs loads of aoe adjustment and also if you do the second tooth mod ie best practice from version 2 gearboxes it

another thing is to test without the recoil weight in the tube just to rule that out as catching and being the issue.

is it a sopmod ? rear wired ? is it using the original quick change system etc ? Make sure when you test shimming to put just the gears in then tighten up the gearbox tight! then try and turn the gears if they feel at all stiff its too tight. Secondly the gap between the flat top of the bevel gear and the inside the of the gearbox casing needs to be 1mm. If its + or - then it could cause problems, like slowing down or worn pinion. I use a feeler blade set from halfords. Its so easy to test without over tightening the casing which turns what was a perfect shim before installing

Hatchet, if you are worried about it coming back two much you can fit a spacer or two between the piston head and piston. The piston will move the same distance but the piston head won't reach the same point. If your theory's correct then that will rule it out. More likely there's some issue with the pistol grip causing poor Engadgement with the bevel gear and there for making it more work to turn over than it should be. Hence it no having the guys to carry on over the hill, since as you say you can turn it manually. Refit the original pistol grip, add 1mm or 2mm of spacers and test

I'm always trying to source cheaper from japan, but they make all the best stuff! some times its just nice that we can get it. You wouldn't believe what stuff they get for NEXT GEN which we never even see, from all the little gun smith shops around japan. its like heaven over there for next gen owners. Alot of the parts they just plain refuse to sell over here Sometimes i found that over time on older sopmods the stock tube you would thread till it stops, after enough times your actually threading an extra mm to much becuase of worn threads. Now the back of the gearbox is physically c

yeah bit lucky timing really, today ill be listing every single part from the FDE SCAR L manual. Descriptions wont be pretty, my fav was a "SCAR L plastic bit in the stock" :/ My continuing mission to list every part from the manuals for all tm, and we start with scar. A lot of SCAR L parts work with SCAR H, but i have found it easier listing parts for specific guns now. example, Tokyo Marui - SCAR L Mag Release Catch For SCAR Next Generation RS Series this is part SCAR-54 in the manual and in the SCAR H manual its part SCAR-113. I bet you a million pounds they are the same. But the

try and clean one of the old mags first. whats the history has the gun been taken apart before? I would try making sire the gearbox and hop unit are seated correctly. sometimes taking it apart and reassembling it is enough to fix. failing that you could try, new tappet plate, incase the old is not retracting enough. or mag release catch, incase the old is worn and the mags are being held in to low. if a mate has a doner gun you can quickly try the mag catch its just one screw.

the stocks pretty easy to take apart, you can remove the check piece and grease the check piece release button.

Not sure what part you mean, can you take photos and maybe point an arrow to where you mean, i have 2x gearbox's open here i will do are parts comparison. it probably still happens with a lower power spring its just the bat and motor have enough guts to move past it.

as druid says, brace the lower, it brakes usually from the hammer forcing one side away from the other side then a crack forms, so just try and hit it against something soft so the two sides of the lower don't split apart. This seems to be common on tm 416 .. weird as the frame body pin is the same as the sopmod one just a different pattern on the end.

to install the block which comes with the kit you would have to remove the quick change connector block on the end of the stock ngm4-112 if memory serves. so if anything you now have more space. Obviously on the sopmod.. theres now a gap in the stock though.. so you can see wires where the quick change bat would normally cover. Unless you fashion A cover, or half inch one from a trigger talk adaptor maybe.

Sounds like you gave it a good charge snoopy, just so everyone knows TM Sopmod 8.4v standard quickchange packs need to be slow charged 0.1 - 0.3a over night. The reason is so todays modern auto detect chargers sometimes cut off off before a full charge is put in, as they are naturally high resistance cells. Not to mention those little c/d cells dont like fast charging. Your battery options are varied.... 1. Standard 8.4v quickchange pack 2 . Standard quick change pack but remove all the cells and solider in 8 brand new 1600 c/d cells. This will now make your sopmod pack a 9.6v

http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/upgrade-part-s/original-tm-parts/tokyo-marui-m4-recoil-series/tokyo-marui-blowback-assembly-dust-cover-for-m4-recoil-shock-series.html

The official gap above the bevel gear between the casing and the bevel gear needs to be 1mm. You can use a feeler gauge to test. Doing this ensures your bevel gear height is identical to one that comes out of the tm factory. It's worth doing testing since most people have switched out to different gears and different shimming.

chrono the rps on 11.1v and let us know, i think youll find the 400 fps spring is going to take a bit of the edge of the 11.1v

just sounds like yours needs that extra current then. If something breaks you can always fit upgraded parts. run it on the 11.1v. ERGs have to run on 11.1v.

after taking apart my 416 youd be supprised how close it is to the VFC one.. its standard hk416 barrel nut and mount.

The grip is a straight fit but typically the base plate needs modding so the motor isn't pushed to high.

Yes point but chrono rps before so you have a starting point. The xcortech is popular or nip round a mates with one. We know from reviews stock is about 11 - 12 so you will want to keep above that even with an upgraded spring. As a general guide.