AnotherJesus
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Posts posted by AnotherJesus
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Being the curious sort, I was wondering about these modern GBB option. I have an old escort MP5, and the thing I really feel can be improved upon, is the hammer mechanism. Or rather, lack of hammer mechanism. The trigger is basically a glorified lever in this MP5, and the amount of yank you give it directly effects the way it performs. Is this the same with the DG AK? Looking at the trigger mechanism, do you release a hammer to open the gas valve, or is the gas valve directly opened by the trigger mech?
I know it's a bit of a technical question, but I think it's relevant to the review, and may benefit other people.
Thanks.
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Searching may work in a discussion, if you already own the gun, and have a specific problem, but reviews should surely be aimed at people who don't yet own a gun? This section has turned into an owners club. No use to people who are looking for reviews at all.
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Just came on here looking for an AGM review. Hopefully some informed opinions as to how the internals compare to the WA ect. I'm not new, I use review threads often to check out guns I might buy. I'm in fact quite happy to read through, say... 10 pages of information. The AGM thread is a little large for me though. You can tell by the size it's gone beyond a review thread, and I don't like it. By all means have a discussion thread, the Sniper haven has a 170 page VSR discussion thread, that's great. But when it's in the review section, I think it should be purely a review. If I was moderating this, I'd probably move these threads to the game section, or a new sub forum for gun discussion, even the tech forums, wherever. Then start a new thread for reviews only, and link to the discussion page, and indicate people to ask their if they have any questions. I'm hardly the kind of moderator Stealthbomber is though.
I just think leaving those threads as they are, means you wont get any sense of a useful review for the WA, AGM or WE M4s. People will look at the thread and give up.
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It's normally the hop up that's to blame for curving shots. I noticed the hop spacer in my SVD isn't the snuggest fit in the gap allowed for it. I'd suggest replacing this with a wider part of biro, or a H nub with something to keep it central.
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I found the finish on my slider akin to that of the RS 56 rifles. Guess they used the same parts. Bit irritating seeing as the rest is all SVD specific, and has a completely different finish.
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You mean there are 3 different versions, which all look pretty much the same? It's basically an AK, no one's complained when they've been posted in their yet. Also fits in the sniper rifle pictures thread in the sniper haven.
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Don't you even dare start talking about Bioval BBs in this thread.
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I don't meant to be picky, I really like that idea, but do you have any metalworking skills? Seems a bit of a waste or work to make a very small wooden hand gaurd, because you can't get your hand on it to any sense. If this was made in a factory, wouldn't it make sense to cut out the wood work part of it altogether and graft some metal into that space? Maby a vertical fore grip even. Just an idea, feel free to ignore me.
Love the fact you've kept those irons too, and not gone for the AKSU irons. Seriously good choice in my opinion.
Looking forward to the finished article.
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Do we need to discuss this any further? If you feel you do, PM me, Oggy or Chris u'5. Let's not clog up a picture thread.
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Did you even read the original post that started this new thread??
Just a little bit. I posted it.
I know the 2 things I've said seem contradictory. But people can post a M4, that just looks like an M4, but has very expensive internals. To me, that's totally boring, as is endless pages of PTW's.
When I started this thread, I was also very concious that in the last thread, people ended up posting some pretty poor guns, with expensive optics. Just as you mention. I mean, fair enough, spend money on internals. But a picture of a gun worth over $1000 should look like it's worth over $1000.
I guess this thread idea is always going to be prone to trolling. To be honest, I don't trust myself to post in here again, without turning into a bit of a *suitcase* about how people are posting rubbish.
So that's one problem solved.
That Kimber is lovely.
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Good how people decided this needed to be called the Big E-penis club. I thought it would be better named the more money than sense club.
I'm totally with BS MARS on this as well. Don't post your boring looking gun with expensive internals. Post the gun that looks expensive, and special.
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Well, I like the idea of this thread. I know the old one got out of hand though. Too many people nowadays with silly expensive optics, they can just bolt to a Bar10, and similar things. So I'd like to go ahead an impose a simple rule.
If you can justify the amount you've spent on you gun, don't post it in here. I want to see gun's that have had unnecessary amounts of money splurged on them, for a marginal improvement in performance or ergonomics, or hey, just for plain good looks. But please, don't let one item account for more than 50% of the money spent on the entire gun. So no Desert Eagles with Trigicon sights on top.
Here's my M700. Real M700 wood stock, G&G barrel, 2Roy hop kit, PDI barrel and G&G valve and hammer bits. £15 ACM scope
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You think maby there's a reason for a picture limit per post? I certainly aint impressed I just downloaded 20 pictures of a stock Tercel 1911. ¬¬
BillyBob, I love that Kimber.
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This is a Chinese company that makes them. I suspect getting a clone of this would cost more money than buying the original. These people already have the set up to produce the real variant of these rifles, and the material experience and fitters. Getting another factory kitted out to produce anything nearly as good in build quality would cost a lot. I wouldn't be surprised if some other Chinese company made a CA SVD copy soon though. It'll just be ali and nylon, won't be the steel and wood of the quality of the RS. Don't get your hopes up.
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you mean 9.6 I take it. I'm pretty sure they wont fit. I'm told the 8.4 is tight enough.
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Approximately 83mm long, by 30mm wide at the top. Adding around 15mm for the catch lips. At the bottom, it measures around 88mm (including spine) by 38mm. For fitting in a mag pouch, you'd need one basically 100mm wide, and the mags could be counted at around 30-35mm wide. 110mm tall for all that matters. I can fit one, quite snugly, in a double M4 NSR mag pouch
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Good idea Hristo, might try that. You dont it yourself perchance, what did you use? As for rewiring, I don't want to mod it so it looks different from the outside. To be honest, I don't want to mess with it at all. Chipped paint I can handle, not like I'll be selling it anyway.
I've searched far and wide for a Li-Pol that'll fit in the dimensions of a 8.4v mini. I figured if you could get a 7.4 end on end battery, it could fit easily. Can't find one though, and can't get anyone to remake it. Also the cost is putting me off. Even if I could get it, it would be over £80, when it's £25 for the ni-mh 8.4 I'll be useing. Prices include chargers.
If I can't get a replacement from RS, I'll look into the liquid metal option. I've got some super steel around here somewhere.
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Speaking of damage, here's a pic of my broken fire selector.
That little bit of bare steel on the right side of the cut out, is what's allowing the trigger to move into the gap. There's a very thin margin for safe on this gun. I'd imagine, even on a working gun, you could move the fire selector about 1/8th of the way down to the fire position from safe, and it would still fire without problem. Maby I got a duffer, or maby I was just too brutal with the trigger. I wasn't expecting it though, and I'm disappointed.
The battery compartment has been mentioned before I know. But it really is a *badgeress* to get into. Here's a picture of me preparing to move the gas parts
I've struggled with mole grips, tube grips, pliers, cir-clip pliers (to hook in the inside and wiggle it off) and nothing worked, till I tried a screwdriver and hammer combo. It's seriously stiff, and you can see I've already started to scratch the paint. You need not worry about the condition of the wood though. RS have covered the tangs in metal sheet.
Once you've got the front part forward, you can just pull the 2 haves apart. They're pushed forward from the rear iron sight end of the handguards, by a plate spring. Keeps them firm, even when not held by the gas parts. But it's not so stiff you'll need to do anything but pull them apart by hand.
Here's some pics I've yet to find descriptions to accompany. They're pretty self explanatory to be honest, just a few shots of the bits that come with the gun, such as cleaning rod and sight adjustment tool. Guessed some of you might wonder how it works, so I included that too
. Picture of how the cheek rest mounts too. That thing just doesn't move when it's on, and provides a nice comfy seat for your big squishy face.
To be honest, I couldn't have asked for much more from this gun thus far. It's beyond solid, you can pick it up and hold it's weight horizontal from any part of the gun, no movement, no moaning. Disassembly is simple, if sometimes physical, but you'll love it for that. As to how well it skirmishes, well, that's a question for another day. Guess I'll order the battery for it tonight... Gotta be said it's pretty hefty, but I don't think that's going to be a problem for me. I'm not a big lad, I just don't move much
Well, I've tried to give a unbiased, even slightly negative view of what makes up this gun, but the truth is, I'm in love.
Can't wait to christen it.
Oh, and some beauty pics can be found here: http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk134/Jesus6000/SVD/
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First off, sorry for the intermittent picture quality. And this isn't really a review, just some pictures, blurb to go with them, then a conclusion. We'll see how it goes.
Right, let's get down to it.
Haven't seen a pic of the actual gears or piston yet, outside of the box they come in, so I took one.
I found the fact one of these gears only has one set of teeth quite interesting, makes you wonder if it really increased the torque by having 4 gears at all. Still, it works to pull a m120 off a 7.2v battery, so it cant be that bad. Other than that, normal stuff.
Pictures for Tinkerbell:
For Thrasher, here's some pics of how the barrel attaches to the receiver.
I hope those are fairly self explanatory, but just to make sure. There's a couple of grub screws, down under the rear iron sight, turn them slightly loose, and you can fairly easily pull the barrel out the front. It might look like a pretty weak design. I certainly don't like the fact there's nothing for the screw to lock into, just a flat plane. Having said that, there's a good inch of metal to metal contact where the barrel seats in the receiver block. Once together, I've had no problem holding the gun horizontal, by the flash hider. It's of solid construction, and there's no movement when done up. The hop up parts and attachment help to keep the barrel in place as well, but not really as a load bearing measure, just an extra alignment help.
The only movement before you tighten the parts, is about 1mm of left right play at the front sight. To make sure I'm doing it up the same every time, I just make sure it's fully to the anticlockwise side, hold it, and then tighten the grub screw.
I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it doesn't seem the stock hop will have any problems with heavyweight ammo. I adjusted it to full, and took a pic.
Even if that's not enough, It's a AEG rubber. You could easily swap it out for a harder spacer and rubber combo.
The hop unit is interesting. Not seen anything like it before.
Removing the inner barrel, by undoing the thumb screws, slide the outer barrel off the front, and pull the inner barrel and hop out the back. Take the screws out, and pull the top off, you're left with this
Removing the 2 small metal tabs (as seen below, just left of center), lets you pull the bottom part off, and leaves you with this
It gives you lots of play with the hop adjustment. You can turn it completely off, or all the way down, as seen farther up the page. Currently, there's no lateral movement in the hop parts, everything sits as you'd expect, and gives a nice strait line down on the hop up. I'm sure sure what metal this is made of though. I could see the threaded metal part becoming loose in it's sitting, and twisting left or right if the material is weak. Given the rest of the build quality though, I can't see this being an issue in an RS gun.
I've noticed though, the hop spacer, has a little room to move left to right. This is a serious concern, I've managed to sit it neatly at the moment, but useing some grease to keep it in place on the threaded part, but if it works left or right, it could cause bad hooking problems. First time I put it together, it was obvious that it was giving more pressure to the right side of the bucking. Then again, fairly simple to keep it central, maby chop a longer one from biro. Changing to a H spacer could be tricky however. If the accuracy lives up to everything I've seen though, you really wont need to.
Magazine wobble? No. You can move it left to right, but you can feel it's the strength of the mag latch spring that's keeping it central.
Trigger pull is stiff. I'm pretty sure this is down to a strong spring rather than a high resistance mechanism though. Depending on the spring type, it could be very easy to change. I didn't go into the gearbox.
The spring release device in this gun, is long winded. They have one, but it's not something you'll use mid game, not even after every game. It requires taking the whole gun down. You have to remove the hand guards, the top cover, the cocking parts, the fire selector and top cover holding levers, the motor grip cover, the barrel(s) and then the gearbox (after undoing a captive screw) and finally you just push this tool in this hole.
RS recommend you decompress the spring if you're storing the gun for long periods of time. I'd agree, I wouldn't take down a gun once every other week. Never know what you might end up damaging.
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Well, I've got one. Unfortunately, I've got to try and get my RS membership confirmed, and then get them to send me a replacement fire selector. They claim to offer free replacement parts. Hopefully the fire selector is included, because somehow, I broke it. There's just no safe option on mine any more. I'm seriously baffled as to how I managed to break it, and if I can't get a replacement, I'll be quite upset.
So far, just the feels and build of it, I'd say it's a wonderful gun. With this and the Tanaka M700, I can quickly see the VSR getting mothballed... We'll see how it performs first though.
One more thing, the battery compartment is a *badgeress* to get into. I can understand why they made it such a snug fit. Everything is absolutely beautiful when together. Unfortunately I can see myself accidentally damaging the fore grip or barrel, while trying to remove the battery for charging. That's not something I want to do.
I can attempt a review if you guys want. Never done a proper one before though, so it'll be a bit wishy washy, and take me a while.
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Real Aimpoints don't (at least shouldn't) do that. Even clone Aimpoints aren't that bad. Check the Aimpoint website here. They show you how they overcame the problem of that.
The difference between the holographic site, and an Aimpoint, is the holographic site doesn't so much have a projector. So you can't easily block the reticle with mud or dust or anything. The Aimpoint is enclosed, so you don't need to worry about bits getting in the way of the projector. On the other hand, it tunnels the vision in the way an EOtech doesn't.
I love that Pmag in the Tavor. Good silencer and optic too.
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For someone who won the "call for review" thing, your review leaves a lot to be desired.
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I'm sorry, are we now no longer allowed to show the RS parts we install on our AIRSOFT guns?
Give me a sec to troll through every airsoft picture thread to point out every single RS part ever used on an airsoft gun in a airsoft specific thread. Sometimes it's easier to read before you have a knee jerk reaction to something.
Yeah, I was wrong.
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2 closed picture thread's not enough for you? Stop posting RS stuff in the airsoft picture threads.
Daytonagun Type 56 Review
in Rifles (Gas)
Posted
That's what I wanted to know, thanks. It's not a bad system, but I personally prefer the trigger of the WA style m4 or pistols. Just a shame they aren't practical for CO2 conversions.