yee245
-
Content Count
313 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Posts posted by yee245
-
-
G&P tracer mags are pretty rubbish so no surprises that they didn't work too well. They did advertise a mixed pot of blue/green/red madbull tracer bbs ages ago but as of yet not seen anywhere stocking.
Good news about Madbull finally getting the .2 weight to the market, just wish they would hurry up on the .25s I'll just have to stick with Blaster .25 tracers till someone releases the .25g red tracers.
I would say that it's also a side effect of red tracer rounds being less affected by UV light for illumination than green ones are. If I recall, I found the red tracer rounds light up better with green light. I was playing around with a UV laser pointer and a green laser pointer, and the green laser lit up the red ones much better. On the other hand, the green tracers were illuminated by UV much better, and I think were unaffected by the green laser. It's also possible the red ones might work best with another wavelength somewhere between green and UV. Though, since the TM tracer unit uses a flash bulb, it gives a wide spectrum of light (much more so than an LED that is emitting mostly in a limited range of wavelengths), it will likely illuminate most colors fine.
I thought Redwolf used to stock the multicolored sets, but maybe it was just the solid packs of colors. As for heavier red ones, Madbull is late to the party. Matrix (Evike's in-house brand here in the States) has been carrying red .25g tracers for awhile now (over a year now, and the red .20s have apparently been on Evike's site since the end of 2009, long before Madbull's .20g reds)... http://www.evike.com/index.php?cPath=27_529 Shipping of BBs to the UK I'd imagine could be costly...
Can't wait till they get to shops over here, hope they will release more and more different colours in .20, can't wait to do rainbow arrangement full auto at night... might take a while to load, and would probably annoy everyone in milsim games by shooting streams of unicorn at people.
Well, for .20g, you have your typical green ones, then there are the Excel orange ones (which are more like a yellowish orange when fired), and then red ones. Other than that, I don't think there are any other colors available. You could just use it as a distraction tactic. Everyone will be focused on you that they'll just forget anything else is happening. Consistent trajectory for that could be a pain, though, since the Excel orange tracers were much smaller on average than most other .20g tracers (other than the Excel green ones). I had to go look it up, but last time I measured, Excel tracers were coming around 5.81-5.91mm, and green ones from other brands are more like 5.92-5.96mm. It might not make much of a difference though.
-
I was referring mainly to the 550. The build quality is much better. As for the weight, I guess that's what you get for having a steel receiver and thick outer barrel...
-
As he said, the burst chips liked to malfunction, so they stopped making them.
Now Jebus, how much for your 550 or 551?
I'm aware they were discontinued, but I just didn't think they were recalled...
I mean, I have two TM 550s and one 551, all with working burst chips. I've also seen a few other ones come up for sale in the ~$150-170 range that I passed on because I didn't really need any more. I'm not familiar with the laws in Japan regarding airsoft guns, particularly with metal receivers, but if there is any way you can get the G&G one, I would take that over a TM.
Some older incomplete pictures of the family are buried elsewhere in this thread... my collection has grown since then...
One of these days, I should get a new family photo... I think it's currently standing at 11 SIG rifles and 6 pistols (though 2 are springers)... Unnecessary? Absolutely.
-
The TM SIG 550s were recalled? Which ones and why?
-
This came in earlier this week...
-
So, from the video, it looks like you changed the hop up chamber along with the barrel (and presumably the entire hop up system), not to mention the length of the barrel. So, what exactly is the conclusion to be drawn from this? I could just as validly draw the conclusion that the new bucking that you put in was the game changer.
Also, in the future, you should check the spelling. I don't think I've ever seen a "Tokyo Mauri" product. And, how hard does it shoot? Approximately 373fps? There were several other typos as well. Having that many errors, to me, screams lack of professionalism, and if I were one of the companies being advertised in the video (or if I were sponsoring the video), I wouldn't be too happy about it.
-
Why not?
I'm kind of a collector, which is why I have the 2 TMs, and then the 3 G&Gs... I had my original one, then I found the other two at prices I couldn't seem to resist (one of them effectively cost $180). I've been looking at the insides and one of them is going to become a project gun where I hope to replace the wiring with thicker wiring, change the battery tube connection to something that can manage more current, and then also try and figure out how to add in a 3-round burst. I know how to get it to click into an additional selector switch location, but it's just a matter of how to wire it to have 4 selector switch settings. I think I'm going to have to look at my TMs to figure it out.
I mean, some people have multiple Armalites, some people have multiple AKs, some have G36's. I have SIGs.
-
2
-
-
One's good.
Two are better.
Three are awesome.
And a full house beats three of a kind
-
2
-
-
I have a video with the removal (that I learned here on Arnies), but with DSL, uploading it would take too long, and I may remake it. Anyway...
Step 1: Take out the gearbox and remove the upper receiver, which I assume you've already done. You don't actually need to remove the gearbox to do this, but I assume you will since you're painting.
Step 2: Remove the trigger bar.
Step 3: Remove the screw.
Step 4: Pull out this piece.
Step 5: Switch the selector to full auto.
Step 6: Pull the trigger back and tilt it up and out.
Step 7: Remove the selector switch and you're done.
Step 8: Remove the magazine release by carefully prying it off one side at a time.
(no picture)
Putting it back together should be self explanatory.
-
The TM and RS P90 optics won't fit in the Toytec without a lot of custom work, and even then I'm not sure how well it will turn out given that you won't have the clearance to be able to really adjust the optic like you normally would. The fake optic that comes with the Toytec (unless they also made another accessory that was a working reflex sight) is slightly narrower than the TM/RS and attaches very differently. Since the "module" is a different shape, you'll need to remove a lot of plastic to get a different thing to fit in. It seems like it would be easier to make a few spacers and just attach some sort of rail to the top instead.
-
Yeah, I'm a bit of a SIG nut, both user and collector. While I'd like to expand my already large collection (2x TM SIG 550, G&G SIG 550, TM SIG 551, ICS SIG 551, JG SIG 552), it's a bit expensive. Having seen the pictures of the G&G SIG 552, it basically sold me on which of G&G's newer products I want to get first once they arrive in the states. It was a toss up between the SIG 552/553 and the G2010.
Something I mentioned in a different thread was that at least in my SIG 550, TM mags fit perfectly fine, and are the only non-G&G mags that seemed to fit without modification. Also, with only like 5 brands of SIG mags total (G&G, ICS, JG, MAG, TM), there isn't really much to choose from. ICS mags "fit" (if you sort of push the mag in, then force the mag release lever to lock it in) with very little to no modification, JG mags are similar, but require a little bit more work, and then MAG midcaps require even more. With the midcap situation, given there's only a single brand of midcaps for SIGs (if you ignore the hard-to-find 60-round TM ones that aren't really midcaps by most standards), it's not like you have all that any other options, even with its ICS competitor.
With the selector switch, that sounds like a problem that developed with mine. It isn't how they are supposed to work. It should rotate basically smoothly (well, as smoothly as it can given that it's turning a gear train to allow ambidextrous functionality) and then click into place at safe/semi/full. The selector switch on the left side of the gun (the side that you'd use your thumb if you were right handed) wouldn't happen to be a little loose, would it? If you could, take a picture of that side at sort of an angle, like almost parallel to the side of the receiver. What happened with mine is that the screw underneath the selector switch that screws into all the gearing of the selector assembly on the gearbox began to get a little loose. For some reason, this made it so that the spring and ball bearing underneath (that makes it click into place) would get a little jammed unless you pressed the far end of the selector switch lever in, then rotated. Removing the grub screw to take off the switch and then tightening down the screw underneath fixed the issue.
Another thing to note about the G&G SIG lineup is that they use a short type motor, rather than the medium type that basically all other SIGs on the market use. This will give you a lot more options when it comes to changing your motor, though with the battery space issue, that might be a problem if you want to upgrade it too far and need a big battery. You could always resort to an external battery, but internally, you would get strapped for space. Having a shorter motor makes the grip smaller than that of the ICS/TM/JG models, so it's something for people with larger hands to be aware of. I've heard complaints that the grip is too small, but for those with smaller hands, it's slimmer and shorter. I've also read about this difference as G&G cutting corners and just sticking a short type motor in, since they didn't make their own medium type motor. Take it how you will.
Also, I don't know if they "fixed" it, but there was also a compatibility issue with different top rails. I assume the G&G branded ones work fine, but I don't have one. The TM (both low and high mount) and JG ones don't quite fit right, though they can be attached such that they will go in, but they will just not necessarily hold your scope perfectly firmly. The ICS one works fine, and is actually what I use on mine.
Yes, the G&G does have its faults, but I personally like the looks and feel of it more than the ICS, and I like the ICS and G&G both more than the TM and JG.
-
The bolt handle is meant to be removable. I was basically saying that if you repeatedly release the bolt when it's locked back and let it slam forward a lot, one of the pieces can break, causing pieces to fall off, which in turn makes two other pieces not stay in. It's just something to watch out for. A kind of terrible analogy would be like if you took a hammer and hit the selector switch (not that you would), doing it a couple times might be fine, and it wouldn't necessarily break, but if you kept hitting it over and over, it's probably going to break.
-
I picked up the included 40-round 'short' lowcap provided, and was impressed with the construction of this. For a plastic magazine it feels good, the dummy rounds and imitation spring look realistic enough, and a nice touch is a follower that makes sure every single last bb in the mag feeds into the gun. It locks into the gun in a very similar manner to an AK mag, a lip hooking into the magwell then rocked back to lock in on the catch in front of the trigger guard.
...
Hop up is a simple wheel-type, easy to adjust and access via the bolt pulling back into a very nice realistic rubber split cover. The bolt catch is functional so you can lock the bolt back while setting the hop, before releasing it with a metallic clack that will guarantee to put a smile on your face.
Sorry to interrupt the review, but the magazine I believe can only hold 30 rounds.
Also, a word of caution with the bolt. While it does make a nice clacking sound when slamming forward, don't repeatedly let the bolt slam forward. If done too much, it can cause that pin that the bolt handle release lever thing pivots on to break and/or fall out. Or, it could have just been a fluke accident, but after doing this a bunch of times (probably well over a dozen times) with my 550 one time when I was standing around, it broke on mine. I did find the lever and the handle, but I lost the pin. The springs inside stayed in place.
-
So, what do you think of the white ring sights (without the REM)? Also, I don't know about yours, but the tritium in mine glows (and illuminates the T) an orange-ish color
-
All the SIGs (G&G/ICS/JG/TM) use a V3 gearbox to my knowledge.
-
thats old news actually was posted a few threads ago
Hey guys i think i found a way to put the the tracer into the GBtech/vfc mp7 silencer !
if i get the madbull tracer :
http://airsoftinform...led-module.html
i can buy or make a battery cradle ie 2 small AA batterys and then install it inside the silencer
But will that actually work well enough? The Madbull hop up tracer is illuminating the BBs when they are moving fairly slowly from the magazine to the firing chamber, whereas in the silencer, the BB is going to be moving much faster. And, if you were to do it, you might as well spend less money and wire up a bunch of UV or blue LEDs in the silencer.
-
I was talking more about the red dot in terms of parallax. When you aim the gun steady at something, and then move your head, does the dot stay approximately on target, or does it move completely away from the target? Also, when I was talking about being able to see a reflection (whenever it was that I did), it's more a small rectangular red-tinted reflection inside the scope, presumably something to do with the optics and the tinting. I recall reading something about red dots where there's some coating that reduces red light emission through it or some reason. It's kind of like if you were to look into a red dot scope backwards and it's kind of red-ish, except it's that sort of reflection in a square shape being projected about an inch in front of the scope. It's kind of hard to explain, and it's just as hard to get in a good picture on camera, but here's my attempt. You can sort of see the red reflection of the front of my camera...
About the battery compartment, are you talking about the main battery or the red dot battery? If you're having issues opening the red dot battery compartment, maybe you're not doing it right. If you just push down on the horizontal part of the door at the bottom, and it should pop open.
Yeah, I noticed that too. My CA only has "CA" where the serial number on the TM and E1 have theirs.
-
Nope, never had the G&P, though I kind of want one. If it is as heavy as the CA's upper, I might not be as much of a fan of actually using it. It would potentially be for my wall-hanger P90, when I justify the funding for one, which will likely be a stock TM with the real Laserex unit installed.
The Pro-Arms one does actually fit the CA's body, but it's mainly the fitting of the other parts, like the hop up chamber and the release button that are very tight fits. I may have mentioned somewhere about the metal hop up chamber not fitting in it, and it doesn't unless you file down some parts, but I think all the plastic hop up chambers should fit. I just tried, and I kind of got one of them jammed in there, so I think it might just be an issue with the Pro-Arms receiver.
If you are going to go for a RD upper with a TR part, why not go with the CA red dot upper? It's going to be cheaper, and it will be more likely to fit all your parts. It's listed as ASGI for $85, where the G&P is going to run about $85 before HK shipping (or $109 at ASGI). Actually, after just checking it, the TM and CA metal hop up chamber are both the same size, and it's just that Pro-Arms receiver is nor made to the same size, as all of my P90 hop up chambers have issues going in.
-
One quick questions about your new CA90, for the moment: Is the red dot just as bad as my video shows, or is it just that the one that I was terrible?
Also, it's interesting, because I can't get the flash hider off mine either, though I haven't tried boiling it. I have tried using some small screw drivers through the holes in the flash hider for leverage without any luck, and the screwdrivers started bending. This method worked fine when I was removing the glued on flash hider on another of my guns. I've also tried a wrench around that flattened part without any luck either. At some point, I'll end up trying some boiling water, but until then, it's interesting that you have the same glued on flash hider, since there is visibly threading underneath.
After having my CA90 for a bit, I am warming up to it a little bit, but I still personally like my TM more. The CA's materials may be nicer (though I still think the upper is too heavy), but the TM pays much more attention to details (seams, screws, fit, and trademarks, but I can let that slide a little bit due to trademark infringement avoidance).
-
Again, it's just my own personal preference, but I'd rather have a slightly lighter P90 with the balance of the TM. The center of gravity of my good TM is at about the feeding hole for the hop up chamber, where the CA is at about the take down button. It's a difference of about 2.5" and may or may not make a difference to you, and maybe it's better being right above your weapon hand, rather than slightly behind it. With the CA upper and my TM lower with battery and dynamat (maybe that helps reduce some creaking), the balance point shifts about a third of the way back from the take down button and the feeding hole (which is actually similar to the Echo1). I've also noticed due to the CA upper's weight, it feels a little top heavy, though maybe that issue isn't present with the TR since it has physically less volume (I think) and is shorter (in height) than the RD version. As for the material, I don't know if it is the same as the G36 line, and if you wear gloves, will it make much of a difference?
Yeah, I know DEN Trinity has the Laserex stuff, but it's kind of expensive. You either buy the unit and install it yourself for $260 + shipping, or you get it preinstalled on a P90 for a total of about $650 because you need to buy a P90 with it to get it installed. There was actually one (a TM P90 with the laserex unit installed) that someone had up on eBay awhile back that sold for somewhere around $500, which is cheaper than the installed price from DEN Trinity. I figure I can rig up a laser in a P90 body, whether in my own location or a laserex-type clone, for much less than buying the actual one.
-
Current state of my ICS.
-
I don't notice all that much of a texture difference between the two TM bodies (RD vs TR) other than that my RD body is a little smoother (less textured) in some places, presumably due to the difference in use between the two.
As for what I do with all the P90s... I knew I should have just answered that in the other post... I have them all so that I can give biased opinions on how they all compare to each other. But seriously, here's a rundown of my P90s:
1. Well R9 - I bought it a couples years back because it was like $50 or something. The only good alternative on the market at the time was the TM for about $260 and I figured I could upgrade some parts in it just for fun. At the moment, it does nothing but sit around, but at some point, I do plan on rigging it to have some amazing internals (it has already been modified to accept a TM/E1 hop up chamber and partially modified to take a TM gearbox), and show up to a game with what looks like a complete noob P90, just for my own amusement. What would you do if you saw someone show up to an event with what looks like the Well D90, but it shoots lasers, both literally and figuratively? Or, if you were running the chrono station and saw what looked like an LPEG, but it didn't pass due to shooting too hot, what would you say/do?
2. TM P90 with silencer - I use this gun at games due to the fact that it performs very well and is pretty quiet. With good BBs, I see velocity deviations of 2 to 4fps (+/-1 to 2fps), which I think is decent.
3. Stock TM P90 - This is my collectible TM P90 due to the pristine condition it's in, and it sits in its box.
4. Tan TM P90 - It's sitting around waiting for me to rig it with an internal laser and possibly a built in light. I may end up selling the body and upper receiver and keeping the gearbox and barrel assembly once the project is done, but that has yet to be decided. I think there would be a market for a P90 body that you could just swap your internals with to get a built in 150-200 lumen light and laser, right? And, I'm pretty sure there's a market for red dot uppers, right Vain?
5. Toytec P90 - This is another P90 for my collection. It sits in its box not being used primarily due to the fact that I don't have an air rig to use with it.
6. CA P90 proline - I only got it recently, so I don't know what to do with it yet, since my primary TM performs just as well if not better, maneuvers better, and it was not the incredible P90 I was expecting it to be. If it did surpass the TM in more ways, in my mind, I'd be upgrading it a lot more and then using it as my primary instead. I may end up upgrading this gearbox to be either a higher velocity or higher rate of fire "quick swap" for my primary P90.
7. Echo 1 P90 - I just got it yesterday, so I don't do anything with it yet, but it will likely be version 2 of my modified P90 projects, since I have something in mind for it. For $100 shipped for the gun, silencer, and 3 mags, I couldn't pass on it. To be completely honest, the metal upper on it feels decent. With the silencer on it, it weighs the same 1lb 10oz that my TM's upper weighs with its silencer and the TR mount, where the CA's upper is twice the weight at 3lb 4oz.
Yeah, that's what I do with them all... let them all sit around while I use one of them. If only dual wielding wasn't so ineffective... Total combined money spent on all 7 of the guns you see in that picture: less than the amount spent on each of the guns in http://www.arniesair...owtopic=170715.
Also, on a somewhat related note, I noticed that the CA P90TR proline is at Gunner Airsoft for $131 + shipping, where shipping via EMS for me would be $63 (or $47 for airmail), bringing the total to $194 (or $178) shipped, which is not a bad price for a new gun. Just thought I'd give the heads up to anyone looking for the CA TR version. The red dot version is listed at $229 before shipping, so it's nowhere near as good a deal.
Lastly, before this post gets too much longer than it already is, azn_tomato, when you get yours, could you make sure to weigh the TR upper? I'd like to see how it compares in weight to the CA RD upper, Echo 1 TR upper, and TM upper.
-
The R9 is not the gravity fed D90, and is actually TM mag compatible with a clone of the V6 gearbox. I've actually had a pair of the D90s as well, but I got rid of them. One actually was gutted and had a V3 gearbox mounted inside it and it shot decently, other than the fact that it had fixed hop up and was still being gravity fed.
We apparently have had very different experiences because I can't really make any of my unopened TM P90s creak without a lot of effort, though the spare TR body I have does creak a little bit if you push on the sides of the very front of the gun, and the P90 I got from aznriptide (which had been split in half to get at the insides and is one of my current projects) has a bit of creaking, though at the moment, I only have half the screws in. The CA, while it doesn't creak as much as like a TM SIG 550 or the Toytec P90, it does still have noticeably more creaking than I see in any of my TMs. Basically, from speculation I've read about the CA, I was expecting it to be much better than the TM, but it wasn't, in my opinion.
I don't think you can have too many P90s, and I think I'll need some more eventually. The Echo 1 that I had just gotten yesterday tipped the scales, so I now have more P90s than SIG rifles.
-
I did mention that I had bought my TM upgraded. I mention the approximate $140 value, since I actually bought it as a package for $200 shipped and it included 3 TM mags, a battery, smart charger, 2 mag pouches, and a TM silencer. I have bought also a stock TM in like new condition for about $127, and new TM prices also depend on where you buy it. You could buy a new TM for $250-265 with free shipping, where you'd be paying $240 (or about $220 if you have a discount coupon at certain stores that might carry it) for a new CA90 RD (and $10 more for the TR). $50 more for the TM is a little bit of an exaggeration. I mean, I basically disregard the pricing due to the used market. If you're going to overhaul both of them internally anyway, it shouldn't make too much of a difference either. The TM gearbox seems to be able to hold up to a lot of abuse based on what I've seen and read about.
With the CA proline's hop up, I don't know what to make of it yet. The plastic TM hop up chamber seems to work well, and the CA's metal one appears to work fine as well with my limited testing so far. I don't really know much about the CA sportline and its plastic hop up chamber (though this used Echo 1 that I just got seems to have a black plastic one rather than that yellowish translucent one, so it's possible it's a CA sportline's hop up chamber). Now, the Echo 1's hop up chamber (I bought a spare chamber) I think is not all that great, unless you put the right sized o-ring in it. The adjustment wheel just spins too freely without it. The TM and CA proline have the o-ring, and they are nice and hold their settings well.
The thing about the externals is really just a matter of personal opinion. I have 5 different brands of P90 sitting next to me, so I can compare them (externally) very easily and make my own judgments. I mean, maybe you can just call me a TM fanboy, and maybe I'm just trying to find things about the CA's externals to nitpick about, but overall, I like the TM externals the most. It's a combination of looks as well as feel, and I think the CA is a little lacking in appearance, and the weight of the upper on the RD version is a bit much. I concede that maybe the texture of the CA's body is better than that of the TM, which is better than the Echo 1 (which is funny because it is on par with how the Well R9 feels), and actually, if the Toytec wasn't so creaky, it has the most texture of them all. But, a can of paint could fix the TM's problem very quickly, as the tan painted P90 I bought from aznriptide859 feels better than the CA, though it looks like it was layered with something else first. You'll have to ask him. Also, maybe my CA isn't typical, but if you twist the two grips a bit, it creaks a bit, where the TM (and Well) don't. There are just a bunch of small little things about the CA (most are mentioned in that link) that make the TM just seem a little better, texture aside, at least in my opinion. When you get yours, let me know what you think of the externals compared to the TM (and preferably not potentially influenced memories of the TM) and how they compare to your expectations, because if your gun is anything like mine, it will be good, but not mindblowingly incredible, especially when you look carefully at the details.
With the red dot version, you can adjust for elevation and windage. What do you think those weird screws that hold the sight in the upper receiver were for? It replicates how the real P90 is adjusted. You loosen the hex screw, then adjust the other screw to adjust the angle, and then tighten the hex screw back down. If you watch the video in the other thread (also copied below), you'll see that the TM red dot works fine as a red dot (minimal parallax), the real sights work fine, and the CA red dot is just useless. It kind of reminds me of that situation with the ARES MARS sight.
And, since this is a picture thread I'll end with a picture...
SIG Picture Thread
in Weapons
Posted
It doesn't look like an ICS to me. From your pictures, it looks like the bolt is a single molded piece (i.e. the charging handle isn't removable, so the little release lever doesn't need to be able to rotate) and looks more like the JG SIG. There are other things as well (front sight, takedown button (or apparent lack thereof), texture of the stock, style of the RIS, flash hider, etc.) that lead me to believe it's not an ICS rebrand.
What does intrigue me is that the page that you linked to says it has blowback. I am not aware of any SIGs (other than the King Arms 556's) that have that feature. Does yours have blowback? Also, does it have a metal upper/lower receiver?
Now that I think about it, I recall something like a year or two (or three) ago in the news section about JG coming out with a bunch of blowback SIGs. Took a bit of looking, but I found the thread... http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/182230-new-stuff-from-jg/ coming up on 3 years old, but it seems that these are finally out on the market... or maybe have been, and I just was entirely unaware...