yee245

It doesn't look like an ICS to me. From your pictures, it looks like the bolt is a single molded piece (i.e. the charging handle isn't removable, so the little release lever doesn't need to be able to rotate) and looks more like the JG SIG. There are other things as well (front sight, takedown button (or apparent lack thereof), texture of the stock, style of the RIS, flash hider, etc.) that lead me to believe it's not an ICS rebrand. What does intrigue me is that the page that you linked to says it has blowback. I am not aware of any SIGs (other than the King Arms 556's) that have that fea

I would say that it's also a side effect of red tracer rounds being less affected by UV light for illumination than green ones are. If I recall, I found the red tracer rounds light up better with green light. I was playing around with a UV laser pointer and a green laser pointer, and the green laser lit up the red ones much better. On the other hand, the green tracers were illuminated by UV much better, and I think were unaffected by the green laser. It's also possible the red ones might work best with another wavelength somewhere between green and UV. Though, since the TM tracer unit uses a f

I was referring mainly to the 550. The build quality is much better. As for the weight, I guess that's what you get for having a steel receiver and thick outer barrel...

I'm aware they were discontinued, but I just didn't think they were recalled... I mean, I have two TM 550s and one 551, all with working burst chips. I've also seen a few other ones come up for sale in the ~$150-170 range that I passed on because I didn't really need any more. I'm not familiar with the laws in Japan regarding airsoft guns, particularly with metal receivers, but if there is any way you can get the G&G one, I would take that over a TM. Some older incomplete pictures of the family are buried elsewhere in this thread... my collection has grown since then... http://www

The TM SIG 550s were recalled? Which ones and why?

This came in earlier this week...

So, from the video, it looks like you changed the hop up chamber along with the barrel (and presumably the entire hop up system), not to mention the length of the barrel. So, what exactly is the conclusion to be drawn from this? I could just as validly draw the conclusion that the new bucking that you put in was the game changer. Also, in the future, you should check the spelling. I don't think I've ever seen a "Tokyo Mauri" product. And, how hard does it shoot? Approximately 373fps? There were several other typos as well. Having that many errors, to me, screams lack of professionalism, an

Why not? I'm kind of a collector, which is why I have the 2 TMs, and then the 3 G&Gs... I had my original one, then I found the other two at prices I couldn't seem to resist (one of them effectively cost $180). I've been looking at the insides and one of them is going to become a project gun where I hope to replace the wiring with thicker wiring, change the battery tube connection to something that can manage more current, and then also try and figure out how to add in a 3-round burst. I know how to get it to click into an additional selector switch location, but it's just a matter

And a full house beats three of a kind

I have a video with the removal (that I learned here on Arnies), but with DSL, uploading it would take too long, and I may remake it. Anyway... Step 1: Take out the gearbox and remove the upper receiver, which I assume you've already done. You don't actually need to remove the gearbox to do this, but I assume you will since you're painting. Step 2: Remove the trigger bar. Step 3: Remove the screw. Step 4: Pull out this piece. Step 5: Switch the selector to full auto. Step 6: Pull the trigger back and tilt it up and out. Step 7: Remove the selector sw

The TM and RS P90 optics won't fit in the Toytec without a lot of custom work, and even then I'm not sure how well it will turn out given that you won't have the clearance to be able to really adjust the optic like you normally would. The fake optic that comes with the Toytec (unless they also made another accessory that was a working reflex sight) is slightly narrower than the TM/RS and attaches very differently. Since the "module" is a different shape, you'll need to remove a lot of plastic to get a different thing to fit in. It seems like it would be easier to make a few spacers and just

Yeah, I'm a bit of a SIG nut, both user and collector. While I'd like to expand my already large collection (2x TM SIG 550, G&G SIG 550, TM SIG 551, ICS SIG 551, JG SIG 552), it's a bit expensive. Having seen the pictures of the G&G SIG 552, it basically sold me on which of G&G's newer products I want to get first once they arrive in the states. It was a toss up between the SIG 552/553 and the G2010. Something I mentioned in a different thread was that at least in my SIG 550, TM mags fit perfectly fine, and are the only non-G&G mags that seemed to fit without modification.

The bolt handle is meant to be removable. I was basically saying that if you repeatedly release the bolt when it's locked back and let it slam forward a lot, one of the pieces can break, causing pieces to fall off, which in turn makes two other pieces not stay in. It's just something to watch out for. A kind of terrible analogy would be like if you took a hammer and hit the selector switch (not that you would), doing it a couple times might be fine, and it wouldn't necessarily break, but if you kept hitting it over and over, it's probably going to break.

Sorry to interrupt the review, but the magazine I believe can only hold 30 rounds. Also, a word of caution with the bolt. While it does make a nice clacking sound when slamming forward, don't repeatedly let the bolt slam forward. If done too much, it can cause that pin that the bolt handle release lever thing pivots on to break and/or fall out. Or, it could have just been a fluke accident, but after doing this a bunch of times (probably well over a dozen times) with my 550 one time when I was standing around, it broke on mine. I did find the lever and the handle, but I lost the pin. The s

So, what do you think of the white ring sights (without the REM)? Also, I don't know about yours, but the tritium in mine glows (and illuminates the T) an orange-ish color