yee245

It doesn't look like an ICS to me. From your pictures, it looks like the bolt is a single molded piece (i.e. the charging handle isn't removable, so the little release lever doesn't need to be able to rotate) and looks more like the JG SIG. There are other things as well (front sight, takedown button (or apparent lack thereof), texture of the stock, style of the RIS, flash hider, etc.) that lead me to believe it's not an ICS rebrand. What does intrigue me is that the page that you linked to says it has blowback. I am not aware of any SIGs (other than the King Arms 556's) that have that fea

I would say that it's also a side effect of red tracer rounds being less affected by UV light for illumination than green ones are. If I recall, I found the red tracer rounds light up better with green light. I was playing around with a UV laser pointer and a green laser pointer, and the green laser lit up the red ones much better. On the other hand, the green tracers were illuminated by UV much better, and I think were unaffected by the green laser. It's also possible the red ones might work best with another wavelength somewhere between green and UV. Though, since the TM tracer unit uses a f

I was referring mainly to the 550. The build quality is much better. As for the weight, I guess that's what you get for having a steel receiver and thick outer barrel...

I'm aware they were discontinued, but I just didn't think they were recalled... I mean, I have two TM 550s and one 551, all with working burst chips. I've also seen a few other ones come up for sale in the ~$150-170 range that I passed on because I didn't really need any more. I'm not familiar with the laws in Japan regarding airsoft guns, particularly with metal receivers, but if there is any way you can get the G&G one, I would take that over a TM. Some older incomplete pictures of the family are buried elsewhere in this thread... my collection has grown since then... http://www

The TM SIG 550s were recalled? Which ones and why?

This came in earlier this week...

So, from the video, it looks like you changed the hop up chamber along with the barrel (and presumably the entire hop up system), not to mention the length of the barrel. So, what exactly is the conclusion to be drawn from this? I could just as validly draw the conclusion that the new bucking that you put in was the game changer. Also, in the future, you should check the spelling. I don't think I've ever seen a "Tokyo Mauri" product. And, how hard does it shoot? Approximately 373fps? There were several other typos as well. Having that many errors, to me, screams lack of professionalism, an

Why not? I'm kind of a collector, which is why I have the 2 TMs, and then the 3 G&Gs... I had my original one, then I found the other two at prices I couldn't seem to resist (one of them effectively cost $180). I've been looking at the insides and one of them is going to become a project gun where I hope to replace the wiring with thicker wiring, change the battery tube connection to something that can manage more current, and then also try and figure out how to add in a 3-round burst. I know how to get it to click into an additional selector switch location, but it's just a matter

And a full house beats three of a kind

I have a video with the removal (that I learned here on Arnies), but with DSL, uploading it would take too long, and I may remake it. Anyway... Step 1: Take out the gearbox and remove the upper receiver, which I assume you've already done. You don't actually need to remove the gearbox to do this, but I assume you will since you're painting. Step 2: Remove the trigger bar. Step 3: Remove the screw. Step 4: Pull out this piece. Step 5: Switch the selector to full auto. Step 6: Pull the trigger back and tilt it up and out. Step 7: Remove the selector sw

The TM and RS P90 optics won't fit in the Toytec without a lot of custom work, and even then I'm not sure how well it will turn out given that you won't have the clearance to be able to really adjust the optic like you normally would. The fake optic that comes with the Toytec (unless they also made another accessory that was a working reflex sight) is slightly narrower than the TM/RS and attaches very differently. Since the "module" is a different shape, you'll need to remove a lot of plastic to get a different thing to fit in. It seems like it would be easier to make a few spacers and just

Yeah, I'm a bit of a SIG nut, both user and collector. While I'd like to expand my already large collection (2x TM SIG 550, G&G SIG 550, TM SIG 551, ICS SIG 551, JG SIG 552), it's a bit expensive. Having seen the pictures of the G&G SIG 552, it basically sold me on which of G&G's newer products I want to get first once they arrive in the states. It was a toss up between the SIG 552/553 and the G2010. Something I mentioned in a different thread was that at least in my SIG 550, TM mags fit perfectly fine, and are the only non-G&G mags that seemed to fit without modification.

The bolt handle is meant to be removable. I was basically saying that if you repeatedly release the bolt when it's locked back and let it slam forward a lot, one of the pieces can break, causing pieces to fall off, which in turn makes two other pieces not stay in. It's just something to watch out for. A kind of terrible analogy would be like if you took a hammer and hit the selector switch (not that you would), doing it a couple times might be fine, and it wouldn't necessarily break, but if you kept hitting it over and over, it's probably going to break.

Sorry to interrupt the review, but the magazine I believe can only hold 30 rounds. Also, a word of caution with the bolt. While it does make a nice clacking sound when slamming forward, don't repeatedly let the bolt slam forward. If done too much, it can cause that pin that the bolt handle release lever thing pivots on to break and/or fall out. Or, it could have just been a fluke accident, but after doing this a bunch of times (probably well over a dozen times) with my 550 one time when I was standing around, it broke on mine. I did find the lever and the handle, but I lost the pin. The s

So, what do you think of the white ring sights (without the REM)? Also, I don't know about yours, but the tritium in mine glows (and illuminates the T) an orange-ish color

All the SIGs (G&G/ICS/JG/TM) use a V3 gearbox to my knowledge.

But will that actually work well enough? The Madbull hop up tracer is illuminating the BBs when they are moving fairly slowly from the magazine to the firing chamber, whereas in the silencer, the BB is going to be moving much faster. And, if you were to do it, you might as well spend less money and wire up a bunch of UV or blue LEDs in the silencer.

I was talking more about the red dot in terms of parallax. When you aim the gun steady at something, and then move your head, does the dot stay approximately on target, or does it move completely away from the target? Also, when I was talking about being able to see a reflection (whenever it was that I did), it's more a small rectangular red-tinted reflection inside the scope, presumably something to do with the optics and the tinting. I recall reading something about red dots where there's some coating that reduces red light emission through it or some reason. It's kind of like if you were to

Nope, never had the G&P, though I kind of want one. If it is as heavy as the CA's upper, I might not be as much of a fan of actually using it. It would potentially be for my wall-hanger P90, when I justify the funding for one, which will likely be a stock TM with the real Laserex unit installed. The Pro-Arms one does actually fit the CA's body, but it's mainly the fitting of the other parts, like the hop up chamber and the release button that are very tight fits. I may have mentioned somewhere about the metal hop up chamber not fitting in it, and it doesn't unless you file down some pa

One quick questions about your new CA90, for the moment: Is the red dot just as bad as my video shows, or is it just that the one that I was terrible? Also, it's interesting, because I can't get the flash hider off mine either, though I haven't tried boiling it. I have tried using some small screw drivers through the holes in the flash hider for leverage without any luck, and the screwdrivers started bending. This method worked fine when I was removing the glued on flash hider on another of my guns. I've also tried a wrench around that flattened part without any luck either. At some point,

Again, it's just my own personal preference, but I'd rather have a slightly lighter P90 with the balance of the TM. The center of gravity of my good TM is at about the feeding hole for the hop up chamber, where the CA is at about the take down button. It's a difference of about 2.5" and may or may not make a difference to you, and maybe it's better being right above your weapon hand, rather than slightly behind it. With the CA upper and my TM lower with battery and dynamat (maybe that helps reduce some creaking), the balance point shifts about a third of the way back from the take down button

Current state of my ICS.

I don't notice all that much of a texture difference between the two TM bodies (RD vs TR) other than that my RD body is a little smoother (less textured) in some places, presumably due to the difference in use between the two. As for what I do with all the P90s... I knew I should have just answered that in the other post... I have them all so that I can give biased opinions on how they all compare to each other. But seriously, here's a rundown of my P90s: 1. Well R9 - I bought it a couples years back because it was like $50 or something. The only good alternative on the market at the time

The R9 is not the gravity fed D90, and is actually TM mag compatible with a clone of the V6 gearbox. I've actually had a pair of the D90s as well, but I got rid of them. One actually was gutted and had a V3 gearbox mounted inside it and it shot decently, other than the fact that it had fixed hop up and was still being gravity fed. We apparently have had very different experiences because I can't really make any of my unopened TM P90s creak without a lot of effort, though the spare TR body I have does creak a little bit if you push on the sides of the very front of the gun, and the P90 I go

I did mention that I had bought my TM upgraded. I mention the approximate $140 value, since I actually bought it as a package for $200 shipped and it included 3 TM mags, a battery, smart charger, 2 mag pouches, and a TM silencer. I have bought also a stock TM in like new condition for about $127, and new TM prices also depend on where you buy it. You could buy a new TM for $250-265 with free shipping, where you'd be paying $240 (or about $220 if you have a discount coupon at certain stores that might carry it) for a new CA90 RD (and $10 more for the TR). $50 more for the TM is a little bit of