mnmc10

i weighed my mags and its full to the brim at 450grams. i would say 430grams just to be sure. i experienced that same full auto prob on my new m4 ob kit. on full auto once i press the trigger itll fire one round. then the hammer is not cokced back with no chambered bb. i simply drenched my trigger set with lube and it magically worked. i know many will think its wrong but i used 2t oil for two stroke weed wacker engines as lube on my trigger set. apply i few drops on your trigger hammer and sear then see if it fixes it. if not then wash the lube off then reapply the lube you usually use.

i accidentally left may hammer cocked, bolt locked backed for a week and nothing bad happened. if it stutters and purges gas while on full auto chances are the magazines are overfilled. if it doesnt have enough energy left to cycle the second bb then try loosening the 2 screws on the plastic bits that stops the nozzle from coming out. its screwed to the bolt. also check your disconnector if its still okay. a friends g36 started acting like a bolt action rifle on full auto. found out his disconnector snapped.

it was around 27deg C yesterday and yeah the gun purges and spits bbs when the assembly freezes or if it needs lubing. im on semi only with 2 seconds interval per shot, no full autos yet till i figure what causes the hop problem.

thanks mate! but i believe i was the first one here to discover that extra oring. i left one oring in it and i also checked the pressure the oring gave to the arm. even compared it to my g36's arm. they have about the same tension. so i think its not the oring the causes the sticking. but still thanks for the suggestion and i badly need a few more suggestions cause my rifle is driving me nuts already.

okay, so im still having a hard time setting my hop. either it overhops or there is no hop at all. its up to a point that the bbs just dribble out of the barrel when i point the rifle towrds the ground. my theory is that the arm doesnt go up or reset to its off position. so you screw the grub in till you get hop then when it overhops a little and you turn the screw outwards the arm is still pushing down. unlike in the g36 or pdw the hop dial has a slot where the arm goes in so when you turn the dial off the arm goes with it. or in the WA platform there is a spring that pushes the arm to

http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/frogman-myblog/article?mid=10305&prev=-1&next=10263 so a flaw has been found and was corrected. i just checked my m4 and it doesnt do that. the nozzle is jsut the right length and doesnt push the bb pass the hop nub.

i said "once" and wont be doing it again. its just a one time scenario that needs plenty of mags.

i use the molded sling loop on the receiver using one point sling. how heavy? i once stacked 5 magazines and the loop held pretty nice.

ill be putting one oring back as i now think its supposed to be there cause there is a recess on one side of the hop assembly. one screw holding the hop assembly together is more than enough since it will slide fit in the upper receiver anyway that alone will hold the hop together.

as i think more about it, my pdw and g36 only have one oring. and the hop assembly usually have only one side counter bored to accomodate the oring. on my open bolt kit both sides of the axles have orings. maybe there should be only one oring? maybe the guys who assembled the kit in the we plant accidentaly put in the extra ring?

was able to use my ob m4 last weekend. hop is pretty hard to set it either over hops or does not get any hop effect at all. in between games i will set the hop right then when the game starts it doesnt have hop again. so i went home pretty much ######. after opening the hop again i discovered that the hop lever that pushes the hop rubber is getting stucked. so at first i replaced the two orings that acts as a bushing on the hop lever arm shaft with a thinner one thinking thats whats causing it to stick. it wasnt fixed so i tried installing the hop lever without orings at all. that pretty m

can you explain exactly whats happening when in full auto?

or replace the pin with a bolt and nut. a friend bought tiny bolts and nuts used for RC cars.

ive done that before and the four pillars are too small to cause gas blockage. besides the gas just doesnt go in between the pillars it goes around the whole valve. so either which way the pillars are in position it will most likely produce the same fps. also cutting two pillars off doesnt increase fps either.

thanks! the spring lets you bend the screwdriver around so all i have to do now is to pull on the charging handle then stick the tool in. and yes thats a 20rd pmag speedloader, holds about 340bbs. my ob m4 still curves to the left but only at the very end of the flight. i swapped the hop rubber from my g36 which shoots straight and the curving is still present. also i got my kit from AB and when i opened the box up the silver shim for the receiver is bent oval. also the tip of my loading nozzle got dented probably the other loose parts pressed on it while it was in transit. WE shoul

my g36 had little movement in between receivers but it barely noticeable. so, after putting plumbers tape and centering the barrel, my rifle shoots well now. it does curve to the left at the very end but i think wind has something to do with it. but the alternating bb flight is now gone. thanks dan for the tip! also you guys might be interested with the hop adjutment tool i made. its just basically an allen end and a handle with a strong spring in between. its now easy for me to jam the tool in the ejector then twist the hop adjustment.

ei dan i recall you also experienced flight inconsistency before. so does centering the barrel and adding plumbers tape fixed it? or you replaced some parts? tia

my m4 ob kit arrived! the metal rod is a tool to push the hammer pin out. also i dont have the rubber piece you mentioned. i have installed the kit and it recoils a little more than the CB system, rps is a bit higher also. thing is the hop is hard to set, the grub screw is also hard to reach. the bb alternates from shooting straight then shooting low. it also sometimes over hops. its pretty depressing to see such results. any of you guys experience the same thing? do you have any idea on how to fix it?

http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/frogman-myblog/article?mid=10215&prev=-1&next=10109 cant wait!

on greengas on co2 very little difference, the co2 will definitely wear and tear the rifle easier than green.

calbur20, if youre going to buy a OB kit for the m4 can you buy an extra kit? ill buy it from you! thanks!

hk or taiwan?

the ratech firing pin is a tad longer than the stock. so cocking it first before putting in a mag might do for now until the firing pin wears a little.

the big nut has red thread lock so heat the nut with a torch just make sure you dont melt the receiver.

my gun spews more gas and the bbs will only go a short distance if my magazines are over filled with gas. i kinda learned how to fill them just enough and the bb spitting and gas purging disappeared. what i usually do is after finishing 30 rounds i refill it with 10secs worth of gas. that way im sure its not over or underfilled. spitting bbs also happens when the loading nozzle is sticking inside the bolt. either it has very little lube left or the two ears thats keeping the nozzle in place is full of dirt. take out the bolt and pull on the nozzle does it snap back quick? i havent exerienced