Mental Medic

Yes, that is normal. Its the result of bolt catch wear.

Give it a shot if you feel comfortable with taking apart your FCG.

It will make the ROF more susceptible to variation due to cooldown. It will also be a little slower than stock.

Yes, I think so. I lost my manual a long time ago, so I didn't know its official nomenclature.

I will attempt to impart wisdom. Full auto issues should first be addressed through the fire control group. There is a slender piece of metal in the FCG that holds the valve open until the hammer is cocked. This piece interacts with the valve knocker. Over time, this slender piece of metal will cause the valve knocker to split on the thinnest area surrounding its pin by creating a camming action between it and the force of the magazine valve pressing on the valve knocker. In essence, I would say the full auto issues can be traced to the valve knocker. Check to see if its eithe

Yeah, you are going to need a new rubber band. And yes, it is what allows the bolt cup to reciprocate with the bolt. People had luck fabricating one out of electric tape in the past, if I remember correctly.

Thank you

Was wondering if anyone knew...... My stock valve spring broke (albeit after some extensive use) and I lost my manual. I don't feel like testing KJW's english comprehension.... For those who don't know, the parts numbers are listed in the back of the manual.

Does anyone know what the part number is for the little spring that pushes on the cut off valve/fps reducer/npas?

Cool, thanks for the input. I think I'll hold off on it until something breaks.

Does anyone have any experience with the Falcon hop up rubbers? The square-ish nub looked interesting and it's only $8 sans shipping at eHobby.

I've had a trigger problem before. Sometimes I couldn't switch it from semi to anything else and the trigger would lock up randomly. It turns out there was a small piece of metal stuck inside the lower getting lodged and dislodged in the various parts of the trigger group.

@ gi tye Your gas consumption problem has something to do with your floating valve. Take out your bolt carrier and look inside the bolt cup. There should be a black metal bar going across the cup's diameter deep inside. Take it out by unscrewing it with a small flathead screwdriver. After you pull the metal bar, the float valve and its spring will fall out. The valve is a small black plastic cylinder thingy with an o ring on it. It's probably lost its o ring or something.

There could be something lodged in your fire control group. Maybe shake it out or hose it out with some water and see if it does anything?

Buffer isn't mil-spec. My RS CTR's friction lock doesn't stop the wobble. It's AEG spec.