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NonEx

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Posts posted by NonEx

  1. Hey guys, just wanted to share with you my first experience with my newly purchased AFC/WE PDW Open Bolt GBBR!

     

    It is AWESOME!

     

    That's all there is to it... Unlike my WE G39C, which was also awesome (but...), the PDW did not overhop/overshoot. It was dead on target after some windage adjustment. Only shot it at 5M though but man, it was great. I got 2x M4 style mags and 4x PDW mags, all GAS. I didnt use the M4 mags but the PDW mags fit ALOT better in the gun than the M4 did and they just felt better overall. At first I had some problems because I didnt gas the mags enough, kind of hard to know when they are full, but once I got that down it was firing without issues at all. Shooting ICS Black 0.25g BBs. Like I said only shot 8 mags @ 5M distance but I am not dissappointed at all.

     

    Accuracy was very good. From my 5M in semi I hit a circle of 1" and in full auto it spread to about 3-4".

     

    :D

  2. Look at the previous page theres a great guide.

     

    As to the question about my overhop. I turned the hop all the way down (I assume thats what you mean by "off" ?), still overhops as I described. but then I had the problem mentioned above about the BBs just falling out instead...

     

    I actually never shot it with hop because I had read about this prior to getting mine, first thing I did was turn the hop down...

  3. Which is the reason threadlock was invented.

     

    Threadlock as in a screw not moving in its threads without a proper tool or threadlock as in Locktite ?

     

    Also if you mean it as in Locktite, wouldnt locking the threading kind of defeat the purpose of having an adjustable nozzle ?

  4. Installed NPAS pretty much from day one.

    Just file 1-2mm off the columns/nubs and install. This mostly suits my own fps needs (350 max) so you may wish to file off more.

    NPAS at highest fps is roughly 360-380 depending on temp.

    Lowest can be right down to not firing at all and anything in between.

     

    Have it set for 330 at 18C, in current temps (0-6C) it is around 300fps or so.

     

     

    I've read from a few sources that the RA Tech NPAS will strip or get lose (and thus self adjust as it pleases) due to the recoil and this is holdning me back from purchasing one, allthough I need it to get the FPS down to CQB levels. Any input on this from you folks that have it installed?

  5. Regarding the full auto problem. You say its straight out of the box and you've done nothing. Well then do something and that is LUBE LUBE LUBE :D. Take it appart apply lube where neccessary, ie all contact surfaces and orings and whatnot. Maybe theres just too much friction due to lack of lube and it's jamming. And from the video it is clearly barely getting by with HFC gas. Allthough if you say you have a G39C that works in a similar setup I dunno. Try lubricating. First thing I do with all my guns and mags bacause they are usually bone dry after shipping.

  6. This happens if the bolt doesn't trip the auto sear. When you cock the gun, do you release the bolt and let it slam forward or do hold the bolt and bring it forward?

     

     

    Well I've been quiet gentle with it so far so I guess that could be it. Thanks.

  7. Quick question, I'm wondering if something is up with my G39C... I havent gotten my mags yet but here is the "problem"

     

    If i set the select lever to full auto mode and cock the the gun, when I pull the trigger the hammer doesn't drop.

     

    If i set it to semi, cock and pull trigger it goes *CLACK*, dropping the hammer.

     

    If i set it to full auto, cock it, then set it to semi, then back to auto and pull the trigger the hammer drops.

     

    Can someone verify if this is normal :o

  8. I just had mine out for some lubing and i checked out the hop up unit as i read quiet a bit about it overhoping and whatnot. I read somewhere that it turns oposite of what a normal hop does. I checked it out and to get MINIMUM HOP UP you turn it LEFT TO RIGHT (clockwise, towards the ejection port). I tried putting a BB in the chamber and gently pushing it out and with hop all the way down it basically fell thru. Hop up all the way over i had trouble poking the damn BB out..

     

    Just a thought. I havent had a chance to fire mine yet and verify if it overhops or not.

     

     

    Also, what I am saying about the pictures is that sometimes things don't look like they do IRL on photos. But I guess time will tell when someone actually buys one of those.

  9. from their website:

    http://www.weairsoft.com/upload_product_images/157file1

     

     

    I still bet those are G&P aftermarket parts they use for the conversion since the color difference is visible

     

     

    Could very well be camera flash causing those color variations. They don't appear to be very professional photos. It's like with the KSC G19 frame, looks totally off on a normally taken photo but in real life it's fine. I don't know how credible that shop is thought, they might be chop shopin for all I know :P

  10. :)

     

    Would you be able to do me a quick favour?... accurately measure the distance between the screw fittings on the top rail, front to middle, middle to rear? :)

     

     

     

     

    Ahoy hoy captain. I hope this anwers your question (measuring from center of screw to center of screw.)

     

    Measuring center of screw/hex hole : FRONT TO CENTER, 22.3CM, CENTER TO REAR, 7.4CM (you'll have to work out inches yourself if you wish)

     

    Used MM graded precision metal ruler.

     

     

    G39C_rail_screw_measurement.png

    • Like 1
  11. The part failing in the hop up chamber are the notches that hold the outer barrel in place, as seen in the last referense image, dead center. The little nubb that has wear marks on it.

     

    On another note, I just took some pics of my 5-7, drewl away!

     

     

    1x Tokyo Marui FN 5-7 GBB

    1x Guarder polycarbonate body kit black

    1x Guarder threaded metal outer barrel

    1x NINE BALL smooth recoil ring

    1x FIREFLY cylinder valve

    1x RCC 130% spring

    1x NINE BALL precision inner barrel 6.03mm

    1x Creation Airsoft Inner Aluminum Slide

    1x Spartan Doctrine 110x30mm Delta Force Silencer

    1x Sig Sauer STL-900L tactical flashlight, strobe/laser combo

     

    fn57_right_full.jpg

     

    fn57_left_full.jpg

     

    fn57_bottom_full.jpg

     

    fn57_safety_close.jpg

     

    fn57_silencer_close.jpg

     

    fn57_trades_close.jpg

     

    The photos don't do the silencer justice, the color is not that much off in real light conditions...

     

    Yumm.

  12. I don't see the point in wasting production time and cost on duplicating an existing upgrade part, the Creation Airsoft Inner Aluminum Slide. It is avaliable from Tokyo Model Company and UN Company, and if the stock supply is out or low, sending an e-mail to Creation Airsoft takes care of that.

     

    On to the hop up chamber. I am interested in getting one so count me in.

     

    Exploded diagram here :

     

    tm57diag_resize.jpg

     

    We're talking about part FN-25 and FN-26, the two halves of the hop up chamber. Estimate size is 4" long, 1" wide and 1½" high. Complexity, high, in my opinion. Lots of small groves and holes and cut-outs etc.

    You would need the actual part, in pristine condition, to duplicate it successfully for production.

     

    As for pictures of the actual part, here it is (copied URL from post by renegadecow on page 13 of this thread)

     

    IMG_0687.jpg

    IMG_0691.jpg

  13. Problem solved, improvised with a Torx T3, worked OK if you aspplied pressure from the top. Thanks alot anyways!

     

     

    Just to clarify this.

     

    Metric 0.9mm is not the same as imperial 0.035". 0.035" comes out 0.889mm. a 0.9mm metric hex did not fit and i could not make it work with a file either (maybe i had bad luck with materials on file vs. hex key).

     

    Anyways. Imperial 0.035" or torx T3 will get the job done, where the 0.035" hex is the correct tool.

     

    I finished my upgrade today and I am very please. With all the things I put into it I believe i have a well balanced and durable gun. If you wish to see more details, here is my other thread :

    http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=191565&st=0&gopid=2395787&

     

    Just a quick outtake from what I figured. The use of the creation slide, in a stock slide or a Guarder slide without the 130% spring will turn out to be a minor disaster IMO. Without the 130% spring the kickback had me scared it was going to break in an instant. In combination with the Guarder slide, Creation Inner Alu Side and 130% spring + upgraded floating internal valve + upgraded mag valve it feels like a very well balanced and solid/durable gun. I do not intent to put any large amounts of BBs thru it so I wont be a good judge of long term durability, but it feels solid for now, vs. the stock gun or the upgraded gun without the 130% spring.

     

    FYI I run green gas.

     

    I put the following parts in mine :

     

    Guarder polycarbonate body and slide black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5705BK

    Guarder stainless steel outer barrel http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5709

    Guarder custom parts black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-PT-FN5706BK

    MAG spring replacement kit http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=MAG-ACC-SMFN57

    Laylax smooth recoil ring http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=NB-PT-FNSRR

    PDI piston head http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=PDI-PT-FN57PH

    Nine Ball 6.03 precision inner barrel http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5624

    RCC recoil spring (70% & 130%) http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5334

    Creation Airsoft aluminum inside slide http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6163

    Firefly cylinder valve set http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/firefly-cylinder-valve-set-for-marui-fn5-7-gbb-pistol.html

     

     

     

    Thanks for all the help and an awesome thread!

  14. Well they're $0.15 at McMaster...but shipping from us is going to cost infinitely more LOL...

     

     

    Allright I will give it one more try to source one locally, if I cant I will post back in hopes that someone can help me out. Shipping isnt really a concern for me if its the only way i have to get the key. It's not like its gonna be 100USD shipping, maybe 5-20$, which i can live with.

  15. Quick look and only places are in the US, and none like to ship out. If you know someone with a CYMA G18C AEP or KSC G18C/23F, those come with the Allen wrench you need.

     

     

    Man o man, would hate for my upgrade to come to a stand still beceause of a tiny piece of metal.. Dont know anyone with either of those guns...

     

    The sad thing is when I look around alot of sites state 0.035" as 0.9mm (or vice versa) when in fact 0.035" is 0.889mm. I dont wanna buy keys stated to be 0.035" only to find them being 0.9mm...

     

    Any kind soul in the US that can help me out? I can pay via paypal :|

  16.  

     

    I too was wondering and saw that reply, but I can't for the life of me find a hex that small to buy. ANyone know of a retailer that has those, preferably in Europe (more specifically Sweden)

     

    Been reading thru all of the thread and I got a stock TM right now ready to get upgraded with every peice of kit there is. I will take a gamble on the guarder kit + creation inner slide. I got a bit colder climate over here and wont fire it too much I guess.

     

    Anyways, where to get the .89 hex in EU/SWE ? :o

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