D2D

Hmm, I seem to recall reading a post by some guy saying that he broke six charging handles and that the problem was that the buffer tube cap was too loose. My ASAP plate is actually slightly bent, so the effective width might actually be thicker than the stock plate. I was pretty hard on the presumably die-cast charging handle though - the simplest explanation is probably the correct one. Does anyone know if real-steel charging handles will fit on the KJW?

What I did was to use putty epoxy to fill the gap. I went one step further and dremeled a step on that metal wedge and put it in sideways so that it would engage the notch on the outer buffer tube. I didn't put in any washers though... Could that be the cause of my broken charging handle?

Oh well, it was worth a try. I'll still be ordering one. Interesting, though - it's $14 whether I order 1 or 100. Will the velocity reducer work with your new bolt carrier?

t_hum, could you perhaps reduce the price of shipping to Canada? $14 to ship such a small part like the velocity reducer seems a bit much.

Yes. I bought it new as a v2.

I would if I could, but I assume KJW doesn't sell v1 parts anymore. IF I'm right about the source of all my problems, then I figure I'll just get another v2 bolt from KJW or hold out for t_hum's bolt. I'm really hoping that I'm right and that it's not some dimensional problem with the upper receiver or something... So with that said, can anyone please check their v2 bolts, like in the addendum video? It'll only take a minute. Also; I don't know why I didn't do this sooner, but I did some measuring with my calipers. The diameter of the guide rod is 4 mm, and the uh... Guide rod hole, do

The thing is, if I shim the upper receiver so as to lessen the horizontal play of the bolt carrier, the dust cover and bolt catch start to function as they should. The failure to go into battery problem is still there, presumably because I haven't eliminated the vertical play of the bolt carrier. Here's an addendum video, showing the play between the guide rod and the bolt carrier: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEFGN0zL704

I thought I'd make a video of just some of the problems I've been having with my gun, and what I think is the source of all the malfunctions, which is the amount of bolt carrier wobble. Can anyone with a properly functioning gun tell me how much wobble is normal? http://youtu.be/oHJNFWAJFnQ

Question: how much play should there be between the guide rod and the bolt carrier? I'm starting to think that excessive play is the source of all my problems with this gun.

I can't find the edit button, so I'll just double post. I have discovered an interesting malfunction while playing with my fix mentioned above. If the wedge is just slightly too thick, the bolt will release itself automatically as soon as a new magazine is inserted.

What's weird is that there is no corresponding amount of wear on the rest of the gun. The retailer chronographed the gun before shipping, so maybe some jerk decided he wanted a new bolt carrier for free? Who knows. What's the bolt carrier made of, anyway? I've put in a stop-gap measure - I put on multiple layers of tape on the bolt catch to stop it from going too far up and slipping off the tab. It's working reliably; for now. Anyways... How should I store this gun? Cocked and on safe, or decocked and on semi? Seems like if I leave it cocked, the hammer is under tension, but if I leave

Hey guys - I got the KJW M4 not even a full day ago, and it's really starting to screw up on me. The bolt carrier is worn to hell, and the bolt catch is slipping from the tab and getting stuck in a recess, preventing the release of the bolt. Here are some pictures to explain - http://imgur.com/a/9y2jF#0 Surely this isn't a normal level of wear, especially in one day? I put this gun through maybe 1.5 magazines, if that. The rest of the gun is in good shape. Has anyone had this problem before? I tried searching, but couldn't find anything.