150-200$ G36 Upgrade Help

[Adiventure]

After having trouble with my echo 1 g36c that I bought used a few months ago (opened it up to install a new spring, and found that the @#$@ who sold it to me had broken a few things, and lied about which series it was), my mother told me she would get me a new gun, I asked instead for the same money in parts. The gun needs a new spring guide, a new selector switch, a new foregrip pin, and could use a new upper assembly barrel base (its fine, but it has a few chips), besides that stuff I can spend the remaining money on upgrades. What I need help on is getting those parts as cheap as possible, and advice on what else to get.

 

Currently I have:

Prometheus 6.03 Tightbore

Element hop nub

Pdi 170 (gunna see if i can trade for weaker)

 

What I Need:

Prometheus Spring guide 26.95 from Trinity Airsoft

Prometheus Metal Bushings (not sure which size I need, I think it's 6, am I right?) 19.7 from Trinity Airsoft

Maybe g36 selector switch 20.00 in most places I have seen

 

What I would like in the end:

Prometheus eg hard gears (are these the best choice?): 54 from http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...link:middle:us

Systema Magnum: 70 from Federal Airsoft

Prometheus Max Torque Hard Piston: 30 or so from Federal Airsoft

Prometheus Cylinder (201-250MM Inner Barrel): 16 From Federal Airsoft

Firefly Hard Hop Up Bucking: 20 shipped from trinity airsoft

Mosfet and sw computer: 60

Angel Silent Set: 50

 

I am obviously over as I get to something like 380, when I have 200 max. This is also not including the work of an airsmith to install the parts (I would prefer not to do it myself). What do you think I should cut/change? Does anyone have advice for cheaper sources/better parts? I need to get on this pretty fast as I currently don't have a working gun.

[nativeofsandiego]

I would suggest getting a new gun my friend. In the long run it will be better...

[Adiventure]

Well, I really like the g36 series so I doubt that is going to change, I considered getting the TM, or CA, but in all actuality, had I gotten new Echo 1 it would have been quite comparable. My problems all stem from getting a used, older model. Instead of the new one with metal spring guide and bushings, I got the older one with nylon. And as an upgrade platform the E1 makes more sense, I'm replacing almost all the breakable parts, and saving 100 bucks in the process. I do however need some advice as to which parts to get at the moment, and where from.

[gunaholic336]

If your only going to be using a PDI 170% or weaker you are not going to need the new gears and piston. The stock JG parts are pretty good. You are correct in that the bushings are 6mm.

 

Get the parts from ehobbyasia.com it is an ebay store excellent prices, great service, and everything you will need.

 

 

[Adiventure]

If your only going to be using a PDI 170% or weaker you are not going to need the new gears and piston. The stock JG parts are pretty good. You are correct in that the bushings are 6mm.

 

Get the parts from ehobbyasia.com it is an ebay store excellent prices, great service, and everything you will need.

 

How long do you think before new gears/piston would be required? I have looked at ehobby some, and by switching a few things there saves about 20 bucks

[gunaholic336]

Honestly I don't have an exact time frame but I would say that the gears are pretty good quality the piston is not great it's okay and if you had the need to replace I would say to buy the stock TM piston on Ehobby comes with a piston and piston head both are good and it will only cost you $15.

[bruin757]

If the mechbox is shimmed properly, the gears should last a long, long time. Unless you're seeing significant wear & tear (which suggests that you need to reshim), I wouldn't even consider getting new gears. The Prometheus hard gears are good, but they're not going to make the gun perform any differently, so unless you chip a gear, there's no reason to get them.

 

Also, you might as well use the current piston until it breaks. Pistons don't really improve performance--one will just last longer than another. Why pay for a new one if the current one is getting the job done.

 

A ball-bearing spring guide is useful and fairly cheap. Not sure why you think you need to get a Prometheus. A cheaper spring guide will do the trick.

 

The metal bushing are a must, especially if you want your gears to last a while. With the nylon bushing, if they start to warp (which can easily happen), your gears will start to shift and cause wear. Also, if you already have a longer tightbore and you haven't adjusted your cylinder to that length, then that is a must. The placement of the cylinder hole needs to match the length of the inner barrel or you're not going to be getting all the power out of the compression.

 

If I were you, I'd try and fix the selector switch yourself. It's not a complicated part. A little DIY handiwork and you can save yourself $20. Honestly, all you need is a system that keeps the selector switch from shifting from one mode to the next.

 

The Magnum will make a huge difference in the performance. But they're expensive and often wear out fast. Also consider a ICS 3000, G&P 160, or CA torque up motors. Not as good as a Magnum, but they're half the price and still have strong magnets.

 

The SW Computer is a great feature if you are confident that you can rewire your gun. I have one in my G36, and it works great.

[Adiventure]

In that case, this is what I was thinking I might:

Firefly Hard Hop Up Bucking: 20

Angel Silent Set: 64

Prometheus spring guide: 20

Prometheus Bearings: 14

So about 12x$

 

Then I have the option of either the mosfet (60$) or magnum (70$), or the gears(45+) and piston(30)(=75) (prommy normal, not highspeed).

 

I have yet to run any of this by my local airsoft store, but the only things that I could imagine changing would be the bearings, and spring guide. I am definitely getting a thorough shim job, as the airsmith who is doing the work for me does them when opening the gearbox. As for the spring guide, I found that at most switching to a different brand would save me ten bucks or so, but there would be nothing for the ten bucks to be applied to (and I don't get to keep any of the extra money), so I figured I might as well go with prometheus as I have for most of the other components.

If the mechbox is shimmed properly, the gears should last a long, long time. Unless you're seeing significant wear & tear (which suggests that you need to reshim), I wouldn't even consider getting new gears. The Prometheus hard gears are good, but they're not going to make the gun perform any differently, so unless you chip a gear, there's no reason to get them.

 

Also, you might as well use the current piston until it breaks. Pistons don't really improve performance--one will just last longer than another. Why pay for a new one if the current one is getting the job done.

 

A ball-bearing spring guide is useful and fairly cheap. Not sure why you think you need to get a Prometheus. A cheaper spring guide will do the trick.

 

The metal bushing are a must, especially if you want your gears to last a while. With the nylon bushing, if they start to warp (which can easily happen), your gears will start to shift and cause wear. Also, if you already have a longer tightbore and you haven't adjusted your cylinder to that length, then that is a must. The placement of the cylinder hole needs to match the length of the inner barrel or you're not going to be getting all the power out of the compression.

 

If I were you, I'd try and fix the selector switch yourself. It's not a complicated part. A little DIY handiwork and you can save yourself $20. Honestly, all you need is a system that keeps the selector switch from shifting from one mode to the next.

 

The Magnum will make a huge difference in the performance. But they're expensive and often wear out fast. Also consider a ICS 3000, G&P 160, or CA torque up motors. Not as good as a Magnum, but they're half the price and still have strong magnets.

 

The SW Computer is a great feature if you are confident that you can rewire your gun. I have one in my G36, and it works great.

I may do as you suggest and make a DIY selector switch, the problem isnt so much fixing it, but putting on a removeable solution (as I dont have the switch at all). I could do something with epoxy putty, but I would be worried about ever getting the stuff off. I can certainly do the wiring for the mosfet and chip, and could probably do the gearbox work myself, but my first effort at closing the gearbox ended up taking hours and a second persons help ust to keep the trigger, and anti reversal latch in place long enough to get the shell closed . What I would really like to do gear wise is leave them (and the piston) stock, then later on get a prommy helical set (100 or so). I get that they should be fine with the spring, but would the motor kill them?

[bruin757]

In that case, this is what I was thinking I might:

Firefly Hard Hop Up Bucking: 20

Angel Silent Set: 64

Prometheus spring guide: 20

Prometheus Bearings: 14

So about 12x$

 

Then I have the option of either the mosfet (60$) or magnum (70$), or the gears(45+) and piston(30)(=75) (prommy normal, not highspeed).

 

I have yet to run any of this by my local airsoft store, but the only things that I could imagine changing would be the bearings, and spring guide. I am definitely getting a thorough shim job, as the airsmith who is doing the work for me does them when opening the gearbox. As for the spring guide, I found that at most switching to a different brand would save me ten bucks or so, but there would be nothing for the ten bucks to be applied to (and I don't get to keep any of the extra money), so I figured I might as well go with prometheus as I have for most of the other components.

 

I may do as you suggest and make a DIY selector switch, the problem isnt so much fixing it, but putting on a removeable solution (as I dont have the switch at all). I could do something with epoxy putty, but I would be worried about ever getting the stuff off. I can certainly do the wiring for the mosfet and chip, and could probably do the gearbox work myself, but my first effort at closing the gearbox ended up taking hours and a second persons help ust to keep the trigger, and anti reversal latch in place long enough to get the shell closed . What I would really like to do gear wise is leave them (and the piston) stock, then later on get a prommy helical set (100 or so). I get that they should be fine with the spring, but would the motor kill them?

 

IMHO, I would ditch the Angel Silent Set (which doesn't do all that much) and go with the Magnum & the SW Computer. Realize that the SW Computer takes some soldering and rewiring. Again, I would keep the gears and piston in there until they break, which could be a few months or a few years depending on how much strain you put on them. The piston head, and specifically the O-ring on the piston head, will effect the performance more than the piston itself.

 

Didn't realize that you had no switch whatsoever. You'll probably want to pick one up.

 

As far as the helical gears, everything that I've read from people who know what they're talking about is that it's mostly a marketing scheme. They really don't don't anything, and in some setups, can actually bring performance down. In the same vein, I'd stay away from "bore up" kits, which really have no practical effect on velocity or distance.

 

[Adiventure]

Yeah, especially for the short barrels the bore up is by far the least effective form of fps upgrade available. I cant particularly imagine myself putting any extra strain on the gearbox, since I hardly fire in full auto (and if I got the sw comp I would be sticking with 3 round burst), so really it would just be the strain of the magnum and pdi170. If the stock gears can take that for an extended period of time playing once or twice a month than I don't feel the need to change them. It is also likely that I will not get the silent head set, but for completely different reasons. Up till this morning my suplier had them in stock, but they seem to be out, and the other supplier has them for 80+$. Though I have been lead to believe that the angel set is quite effective (by using a different design), I dont think it is worth 100 bucks. I have not heard such negative things about the helical gears, but if the stock gears hold for as long as I have been lead to believe, I shouldnt have to worry about replacements for a while. What do you think would be a reasonable bb count before I would have to worry about the piston?

IMHO, I would ditch the Angel Silent Set (which doesn't do all that much) and go with the Magnum & the SW Computer. Realize that the SW Computer takes some soldering and rewiring. Again, I would keep the gears and piston in there until they break, which could be a few months or a few years depending on how much strain you put on them. The piston head, and specifically the O-ring on the piston head, will effect the performance more than the piston itself.

 

Didn't realize that you had no switch whatsoever. You'll probably want to pick one up.

 

As far as the helical gears, everything that I've read from people who know what they're talking about is that it's mostly a marketing scheme. They really don't don't anything, and in some setups, can actually bring performance down. In the same vein, I'd stay away from "bore up" kits, which really have no practical effect on velocity or distance.

[Beast06]

IMHO, I would ditch the Angel Silent Set (which doesn't do all that much)

 

Do you have direct experience with it?

 

It's one of the only silent head sets on the market that I've found to actually make a difference, due to the design.

 

Very very hard to find though.

[bruin757]

Really no way to tell how many BBs before the piston goes. That depends entirely on the QC when they made the piston and on how well your system is maintained. Theoretically, a decently made piston in a setup that's properly shimmed, greased, and maintained should last a long time. Generally, the first thing to go on any stock piston is the final metal tooth, which is usually made out of some crappy potmetal. So, how long it last will depend on how well they built and installed that final tooth. Of course, if you have a big spring in there, say m120 or larger, the amount of time it lasts will significantly decrease. But, as long as it's working, who cares how many BBs you've put through it. When you do need to replace it, the Prometheus piston is the way to go. That sucker can take a bullet.

[bruin757]

Do you have direct experience with it?

 

It's one of the only silent head sets on the market that I've found to actually make a difference, due to the design.

 

Very very hard to find though.

 

Yes, I had one in my MP5, but I recently took it out because I wanted to decrease the weight for a high ROF setup.

 

I never said it wasn't an ok product. However, if my option was between a Magnum, SW Computer, and Silent head set (which was essentially his question), I'd choose the first two every time. They'll have a lot more impact on how the gun performs on the field.

 

With a V2 or V3 mechbox, the "sound" comes from more than just the piston head striking the cylinder head. It also comes from the motor, gears (especially if the gears aren't shimmed perfectly), and the mechbox itself. If he truly wanted a "silent" gun, then he should be using a M14 rather than a G36. V7 mechbox is about as quiet as it gets in the AEG world. So a slight reduction in sound using the Silent head will leave him with a gun that's still very easy to hear and without the ROF, power, and options that a Magnum and SW Computer will give him.

[Adiventure]

So this looks good set up for about 180$? And you expect I will get reasonable durability out of it with proper shimming and reasonable trigger restraint?

Element Nub

Prometheus 6.03

PDI 170

Firefly Hard Hop Up Bucking

Prometheus spring guide

Prometheus Bearings

Mosfet/SW-Comp

Systema Magnum

Is there anything more I could do for accuracy without going to a tighter barrel?