renegadecow

Yup, just eyeballing it really. It didn't sky rocket past 20m like the old one did. When my parts arrive to fix it, I'll further test it on paper and maybe compare it to the new barrel and hop if and when I decide to get those too (more likely when).

Being overly impatient for the new hop to arrive I tried to modify my old one with a dremel which flew from my hand and into a pile of garbage never to be seen by the eyes of mortal men. For the past 12 hours I've been experimenting with different materials to use in place of the old and missing one and I've come across a very effective solution: glue gun. I had to stick a screw driver (slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel, around 5.5mm) into the inner barrel first to prevent the excess glue from mucking up the inside as well as to mold a reversed "U" hop profile (simila

Just make sure that whatever mod you do (particularly adding that locking nut) you must compensate on the plastic collar so that the total length remains the same. Too long and you'll be ramming your nozzle dead. Too short and you won't close the seal and drop your performance.

Well, to reassure you, none of my mags have blown up. Leak, yes, but not blow up. And its peaking at 34°C nowadays. I'd likely faint first from over exposure when playing under the hot sun without shade.

Thats really strange seeing as R22 has similar vapor pressure to propane. Of course there's temperature; leave it under the sun and go over 40°C without the cover is asking for trouble as that will peak to well over 200psi. But still, you should stop using that as it eats ozone like a sugar-deprived child with a bag of oreos. And don't use them without the covers because it adds structural support. edit: VVV hfc134a=duster gas r22~similar to but not the same as green gas/propane

You mean you just get a 'click' when you pull the trigger? Some have sorted that out by shaving off some of the sharp edges off part #61 where it comes into contact with the disconnector. Failure to feed could be caused by your nozzle moving forward from its thread so the bolt at its rear most would not be able to clear a new bb to be lined up and chambered.

Being able to remove chambered bbs would be a bonus like how most handgun GBBs allow you to, but the WE has an almost completely sealed chamber so even if you cold get it out through the back, you'd need to have your magazine removed first and plop down through the magwell instead of the ejection port. Technically you could do this by modifying part #117 to be more slack but this would also mean a loose seal against the nozzle.

Also just got mail from TS One saying my order has been refunded. Kinda glad though because it consisted of the bolt stop plates and a weighted buffer which don't really work much from what people have been saying about theirs. edit: Checking my PayPal account, the payments made to TS One have been reversed.

Well, no seeing as it would need to be an AEG to be anything close to a toaster.

Now that the new charging handles are out (I'll be getting one soon enough), is anyone else interested in having Gas Buster charging handles as an option too? Real ones cost $80 and I've tried the replica installed in a friends G&P WOC and it seems to work in keeping you from getting 'gas face' so it should fair the same on the WE.

Is it? I'm pretty mush sure the bolt stop on mine is made of steel as I was able to have it welded.

Just to be sure, you have to remove material here. Only about 1~1 1/2mm on each side.

Not QD ris, QD barrel nut attachment. You slide the barrel of the gun through the gap on the M203 bracket, lock it against the barrel nut and clamp the front part. Takes me all of 10 seconds when I really need to remove it and hurl it at someone when out of shells. The problem was the gap was too narrow and cannot slide through the barrel. I had to grind down about 1mm from each side to widen it. Otherwise you'd need to remove the entire front sight just to slip it on which is not very quick at all. As for the TS upgrade parts, I'm waiting for mine too and quite bummed to hear that it s

The G&P WOC should not be confused with the WA M4. Despite them being practically the same, the performance and reliability of the G&P classifies it as another animal; Its a WA rifle with all the WA bits removed and replaced with G&P (full metal, reinforced) parts. I handled a friends G&P WOC CQBR last Sunday and was beside him for most of the skirmishes. Sound was similar, so was recoil and range/accuracy provided that my N4 was previously downgraded to 380fps. The only limiting factor I see is the big difference in price for the unit and the magazines. If the two were similar

But then those are from your non-malfunctioning M4. It wouldn't be right to dismiss the notion that his nozzle might be sharp just because yours isn't. As much as we all like the gun, all it takes is one lapse in the QC process; even Tokyo Marui has lemons. Until we get a good picture of his nozzle, there's really no telling what's causing the deformity, but in any case, that scar is there and will undoubtedly affect precision in messing up with its aerodynamics.

wOlfy already has about ten pages back. Its a tight fit though.

That's how I understood it myself. I just paid for a couple packs of the mag catch enhancements and a weighted recoil buffer then sent them an e-mail just to be sure. It's for wholesale that you have to contact them first then pay. The NPAS bolt priced at $200+ for the WA rifle is a complete bolt kit so you could just swap bolts. They have parts kits which are much cheaper ($50) but require you to use your existing bolt.

Has a steel bolt catch and shoots a bit harder than a stock WE (mine chronoed at 550+) which I had to downgrade anyway. So technically ver2.

My charging handle also has come to its eventful end last week despite being uber careful when racking. I was told by a local airsmith to just glue it back together with steel filled epoxy as it did wonders with theirs. I tried it and about 3 mags and over 50 racks later it broke again. It seems the epoxy just isn't enough so I drilled out a long narrow hole, filled it with more epoxy and inserted a thin screw with the head nearer the handle as an anchor. Its worked for a week now and over 500 rounds fired. Hopefully this holds well enough until the reinforced handle comes out as none of the s

His bbs don't get chopped. Agreed that ammo used can solve that. But he's getting very erratic trajectory (knuckleball is a baseball term for it). I've not had this on my N4, but my old M700 with similar double-lip feeding system did. The cause was an overly sharp edged nozzle, which upon loading would impart a half-moon scar on the surface on the bb and affect flight.

If you check out the TS One website, they have the add-on weights (says how heavy) for sale plus a 90% recoil spring. They also have a replacement buffer thats already made heavier and according to them adds 75% to felt recoil. Some real ones have them. You can shim it by adding material (i used a thin layer of super glue) on the upper receiver pin holes. As for damaging the bbs upon chambering, you can smoothen out the inner and outer edges of the nozzle tip with a scouring pad/steel wool, just enough to round the edges.

Mine too, well, just a crack on one mag but wear on my two others. I found that the force of the bolt locking back eventually bends the bho lever enough for a part of it to make contact with the top of the mag. As it gets more and more bent, it hammers down on the mag and will eventually just crack that portion which is very brittle to begin with. And I hope that TS custom takes major credit cards. EDIT: To WTTI I've observed that theres plenty of play from the rear most position of the bolt to the point where it actually locks against the bho lever. This would mean that

Noveske N4 M203 ala Resident Evil. The Noveske logo freakishly looks like the Umbrella logo.

Actually, mine works fine on the stuff (27°C) and fully cycles to work the bolt stop. Others here have also reported same. Its just that 134a is relatively more expensive so I'd rather modify the gun to shoot lower on cheaper green gas.

Dislodged o-ring perhaps? Happens sometimes on handgun mags, why not on a rifle. EDIT: VVV Depends on what floating valve is installed which would set its power output. Right now there are two kinds (high and low). If from where you're gonna buy your M4 says it shoots 330~350 then that's the low one and is what you're looking for. There are also self implemented modifications you could do to further restrict the power like jamming something behind the floating valve effectively making its opening smaller. I just inserted a 5mm x 1.5mm o-ring in mine as I can't open up my nozzle to cha