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Bagpuss

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About Bagpuss

  • Rank
    Adv Member
  • Birthday 10/10/1968

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  • Airsofter since
    2007
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. The other option is do as per m14, which is pretty much the same with the exception of shaving down the final tangs to 1.84 mm rather than chopping them off and cutting groves. I sanded mine from 3mm or so to 1.9 mm and that gave me and adjustable range from 260 fps up to about 370 at room temperature, which is fine. You could try that first then cut down to the linked article if it doesn't suit you.
  2. Cheers They didn't have a high flow in but I got a standard as a spare. I ve found with the NPAS and shaving down the nozzle tangs to approx 1.9mm that tphe fps is a little variable, ranging from 290 fps to 340 fps. I though best get a spare in case I was hoping with a hihgh flow i could just drop it in with the npas. (i don't have a mmilling machine tomget to 1.82mm ) The two tangs were 3 mm as standard and i couldn 't get above 220 fps with the npas ( although the chrono did measure the propane exiting at 1438 fps once)
  3. Does anyone know where you can get the high flow bolt/ nozzle other than evike, e.g. preferably somewhere UK basd? I tried a search but havn't found owt yet.
  4. Looks to be a standard gbb pistol hop up rubber. One thing i noticed after re assembly that the feeding end of the rubber doesn't always seat properly in the lip of the chamber. A gentle run around the edge with a small flat bladed screwdriver gets it back to round rather than oval.
  5. woo hoo, cheers guys. This was my method - a bit of cloth over the plastics to provide a bit of a puffef the pour a kettle full of boiling water over the nut.This was then followed by several big doses of " shock unlock" lubricated freeze spray around the area then the gas microsortch on heat gun for 5 minutes. Don't use the naked flame as the freeze spray is ether. Then with a correct sized allen key, sloted in long end in, lay the gun on its back and rotate e nut towards me and give it a big FOAD, but smooth pull. Repeat this process a couple of times and once it moves it comes off with eas
  6. Heh don't you start, swmbo called me at work saying she noticed a scratch on the side of my MR2. She waited until I got home before she told me she had also reversed it into the front wall, spend most of this evening layering up the paint to repair the gouges in the bumper. Its a pitty there isn't a spanned to do the job. My c spanner I use for m4 barrel nuts levers on the body and I don't think an angle grinder spanner is quite the same spacing.
  7. Yep, when the hairs on my arm are sizzling i've got it wrong I'm using the heat gun acessory of my butane micro torch with wet cloth on the plastics and running the heat gun up around the barrel. Give that its alloy and hence a good heat dissipator I'll try a preheat with hot/ boiling water to get a bit of initial heat into it. I'm aiming with the torch at the knurlled surface around the upper half of the nut, keeping to moving to avoid hot spots. I think I'll have another go this weekend. Are they using thread lock on the nut or relying on tightening it up so tight that the alloy
  8. Thank, i'm turnining it correctly then, but for the love if itm it aint going anywhere. Its almost like there is a locking pin in there. Normally with threads once ther start moving they shouls be fine, but it just rotates my about 1 mm of movement. Its not like i'm some 3 stone weakling either
  9. I got my g39 c this week. I've attempter to remove the barrel nut. Tried allen key with extension, some heat with a micro torch on heat gun. I can get about 1 mm movement but that is it. did anyone else find they got a bit of play but bugger all else? I'm concerned about rounding off the slots in the barrel nut as its only ally. I also assume its a regular" righty tighty lefty loosey" thread rather than the reverse thread of the flash hider?
  10. I was at work which sucked as I still got wet. I was in just long enough in the morning that I couldn't do half a day :(

  11. missed a good game today bagpuss even in the rain. alot better bunch of players taking hits etc

  12. After an overhaul, the hop up rubber had a tear in it which wasn't good. I changed the hop up rubber and put a spare H bucking in whilst I was at it. That gave be an extra 10 meters of range with little effort. I've since put in the upgraded stainless nozzle, bearing spring guide & cylinder head along with a gaurder vented piston head and a systema cylinder ( I don't like the non vented head that comes as standard). With all this I still only seems to get about 285 fps (after a few mags bedding in). I put a Mad Bull M110 in and it made no difference (but then it only gave 310 fps on m
  13. HI, Just as an update. I think the barrel is more 610mm than 640 (measuring from the bb feed to end of barrel). It looks like a 650mm barrel would reach just up to the openings of the flash hider so I think that is suitable. I've been trying to get the power up on mine (did 295fps out of the box), but after changing to an M110 spring, ptfe taping the cylinder head and changing the piston head O ring to the next imperial size up its made no difference. The seal is really good so I need to check the hop up next. It looks like there is no adjustment in the hop up. I suspect that the buckin
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