Wupjak

My stock CQB-R shot around 390 on propane at 75-80F iirc (check the review post). That's within your limits. Range and accuracy are both excellent even with the underlength barrel. Not sure what you're saying about too low or too high.

After wearing my OD replica and then my EB TAD jacket alternatingly for a few weeks just 'around,' I have to say that the breathability of the real garment is FAR superior to the replica. While this is to be expected, it bears pointing out. The TAD jacket keeps out wind and (some) cold, but you don't get that muggy, sticky feeling inside the jacket since the moisture your body creates is released through the fabric. The replica, while it's quite good, is made from fabric that is nowhere near as breathable and, as a consequence, you get a bit more sticky when wearing it. Still an exce

Magsz, great minds think alike and all that. The seals are lubed well enough (by hand having had the mags apart a couple of times) so I've stopped adding silicone oil to the propane adapter. Even so it'll take a bit of time to work the oil that's already in there through the gun. vtb, interesting observation with the hop. I haven't seen the same effect, but that's wild. Thanks also for the insight on the BBs.

I think the issue isn't so much the BB brand as much as it is the weight and the resultant amount of hop up required to get the bb to stabilize in flight. The hop up arm is shoved further into the path of the bb and the projectile is unable to get past the hop up rubber/arm, resulting in a jam. The next stripped round from the magazine then collides with the jammed round, takes the path of least resistance and busts off the upper hop up chamber lip. I also busted my hop up as you did with .28g's. Associated with this is the fact that the hop rubber gets more and more slippery with mo

People are getting their PDI barrels and pm'ing me for help with installing them. Here ya go: To begin with, you will be removing the barrel and hop up through the front of the receiver, not through the rear like you would with an AEG. To get at the innards, you'll need to remove the flash hider, front sight/gas tube, and delta ring/barrel nut. You will need to slide the outer barrel forward just a bit to be able to proceed. Once you have the inner barrel and outer barrel separated from the receiver, the next job is to remove the inner barrel from the outer barrel. There'

Not something I'd spend much time worrying about, hokeyplyr. Unless you put a bit of flint into the bolt stop. THERE'S your problem.

It's a staggered channel arrangement as you'd see on any number of magazines. The spring is mounted along the front and down under the baseplate. The front 'edge' of the magazine can is actually a removable, L shaped piece that covers the follower, BBs, and feed channel. To answer your question, Chris, yes, a shorter magazine would allow fewer BBs.

From boomarms, Poison?

That'd be cool for an SPR type rifle, too. Unfortunately, as you say, the reservoir would likely be too small. However, if WA went full-on 'real' for the mags and just had them hold 30 or 20 rounds, it'd probably work, maybe, kinda.

Yes, they come with paracord toggles. My brown TAD Gear jacket came with black paracord, which I replaced with tan.

received my jacket today. Looks pretty dang good and the material is a bit stretchy, but not as stretchy as my tad jacket. Also there is no lining as has been pointed out, but it's a great jacket for the price.

Poison, did you take the mag apart yet? Pretty easy to do, but I understand your frustration. Again, make sure the gas is all out of the mag, then knock the roll pins out along the front edge, then the single fat pin down toward the bottom quarter of the magazine in the center. Slide the front edge and baseplate off and see what the problem is that's jamming the follower up. CNC receiver. Ohhhh dear.

When you say disconnector, are you talking about the full auto sear? the one that's held in place by the upper-rear most pin? Is there any more resistance as you pull the bolt back with a magazine in it than prior? Also with the bolt stop I find that it doesn't always work with an empty mag. Try loading a couple of bbs into it and then see if the bolt stop functions. I've found that it helps to have the mag follower moving to pop the detent in the bolt stop up, but then again my bolt stop is jacked.

89 degrees today, 489-492 fps with .25s.

Eh? I've been very consistent in my criticism and praise. Not sure what you're talking about.

Nice looking setup. It gets your attention right away, doesn't it! Please keep an eye on the hop up and bolt stop for us. What propellant are you using? @AdrianRodgers, If you have access to a machinist, have him mill/lathe you a new hop up unit (parts 47/48), a bolt stop and perhaps a bolt carrier if he's really feeling froggy. That should hold you for quite some time. Follow up - I found the source of the gas venting and it was nothing but, surprise, user error. I had remounted the mag/bolt seal incorrectly on the magazine. As a result there was too much friction b

Agreed PlasticMag. I share your hopes for a SA GBB SPR. Not sure what kind of sniper platform this would make on 134a, though. In reality I never intended to use the gun with anything other than Propane. Am I surprised that the propellant with the higher pressure broke things? Nah. Am I surprised it happened so quickly? Yes. I'll say it again, I love the little carbine. If I didn't, I wouldn't even think about throwing more money at it to shore up some of the failing stuff. I see your argument, though, that 134a would not break the internals, or make them slam together a

People were expecting more. Accelerated wear is still wear that will happen eventually with 134a.

Daytonagun replied to my inquiry and told me that yes, he will be producing parts for the gun. He has heard from friends that WA will release a non-railed version. He is waiting for that to arrive on the market to keep the cost of his sample gun down. This is excellent news. The guy makes outstanding parts. I directed him to this thread but he said he wasn't registered here. Hopefully he'll register and contribute.

The bit that fits around the barrel is incorporated into the hop up housing. I took a few days away from the gun and will revisit it with fresh eyes today or tomorrow. Mine went from 392 with .25 up to 417 with an M4 length barrel as we discussed. It's enough to make a big difference in range, theoretically. I'm going to do some doctoring on the hop up arm to allow me to add more hop without jamming BBs. I find with the max hop applied without causing jams, the BB doesn't hop enough to allow a flat trajectory past 120-130 feet. I'm holding out hope that I can keep this thin

Oh don't start darin LOL! All my comments about SP guns are directed at the stock gun as I pointed out in the foreword. Besides, [ignorant]ZOMG HOSE!!![/ignorant] I have made no secret that I love this gun. The problem is that it isn't built durably enough to withstand the pounding that a reciprocating bolt creates. Bababooey pointed this out early on in the news thread. I am seeing it for myself first hand. As much as I like the gun, it would be a disservice to the readers if I left the review as a snapshot in time and did not follow up with subsequent developments. At some

Seconded. I love the gun, but until it's got a full selection of replacement/reinforced parts available, it's a ticking time bomb. Not to say I'm giving up, but it's too fragile in its stock state.

It's all about what you're prepared to deal with. If you think this is a POS, try a SP16.

Irritating, yes. Not broken necessarily, but you're right, the QC on the assembly of the mag is a letdown.

Hehe. Way ahead of ya: VENT ALL OF THE GAS. Don't ask me how I know. Remove the roll pins in the front (bb channel) of the mag and in the bottom middle to free the baseplate and front channel Remove the pins in the top middle of the mag and the one under the bb channel Rock the magazine guts at the top of the mag forward. Watch for the spring on the right/top of the mag under the valve lock that'll jump out. That's the only little piece in there. Remove the seal o-rings and wind the channel with teflon tape to build up the sealing surface. The rattle is coming