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FarEast

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Everything posted by FarEast

  1. The piston and cylinder set. The piston and cylinder set seems to be a little on the cheap side, but for the price of this weapon it’s not surprising and I would recommend any one looking to upgrade their internals to start here. Now there are a few things to take into consideration when choosing the parts, the first one is the cylinder head, On the A&K I found that the o-ring was too small and did not allow a good air seal between the cylinder and the cylinder head, this was easily resolved by pulling one off another cylinder head, funnily enough I got mine from another A
  2. Those of you not wanting to open up the gear box and are happy with the performance of the weapon can now move on to lubricating the gear box, which again doesn’t require you strip the gear box down but for a complete job I would recommend it. The first thing to do is remove the spring, anyone who has worked on Airsoft gear boxes before will know how annoying it is when the spring guide and spring fire out the back and either disappears or causes the whole gear box assembly to jump out. The spring and spring guide are a dream to remove and anyone trying to get as close to legal limits o
  3. The Gear Box. The A&K gear box is a very weighty piece of kit made out of steel pot metal and of the same quality as the Tokyo Marui metal. Removal of the gear box, as you have seen is incredibly easy and makes working on it a joy. But it’s not all roses! There are some issues with the gear box that are easy to remedy but so easy they should have been addressed on the actual production line. I’m going to list exactly what faults I have found and then walk you through how to fix these, most of these are extremely easy to fix and one or two can actually be done withou
  4. Now upon closer inspection of the A&K M249 box magazines internals I found that the two sides that form the feeding mechanism do not join correctly resulting in jams. Now although this sounds major it’s actually a result of where the plastic is injected into the mould. The struts used to join both sides together were also where the plastic was injected and on assembly of the unit the struts were not cut back far enough resulting in a large enough gap for two BB’s to jam up the gravity feed. To resolve this problem all you need to do is unscrew the box magazine controls located underne
  5. Now there is a simple modification that only requires either a small modeling file or if you have it a rotary tool. By simply cutting away a notch a little bigger than the size of the clip found on the main box you will be able to attach the magazine into place and lock it into position and then attach the loading port. I started off by filing the starting location and the finishing location of the area to be removed. I then removed everything between and rounding off the sharp edges to reduce the risk of it catching on something or damaging other parts of my equipment.
  6. The over all look and feel of the weapon is solid, although the materials used aren’t the best in the world, short of someone running over the A&K M249 in a car or physically jumping on it the weapon is going to last. The paint work is well done, there is no “Orange peel” effect but I have noticed that the paint has scratched off where the heat cover connects to the outer barrel. You will also need to be cautious not to over tighten any of the external fixing screws as you can easily strip the threads on the body work. I have found in the past JB weld or similar will reverse th
  7. The trigger mechanism is replicated on the real thing also (externally that is!). Now believe it or not the whole trigger mechanism is removed in exactly the same way as the real thing. First you will need to remove the pin at the front of the mechanism here: Be careful as the assembly will swing down, then you will need to remove the pin that connects the stock to the weapon, get ready to catch the assembly as it will now fall clear. As you can see there is very little to the A&K M249 trigger mechanism and the way it engages the gear box and trigger switch. To be pe
  8. I have procured a copy of the US technical diagram of all the parts and what they adjust, simply set your hop unit so the BB’s maintain the longest straight flight before they drop out of the sky. If your BB’s are arcing upwards then reduce the back spin, if they are arcing down slightly increase it. Once you have the best settings select a target that the BB will hit without arcing either upwards or down wards and then dial in the sights. Once you have done this for the iron sights do the same for your optical sights. I was able to hit a standard Tokyo Marui paper target at 50 mete
  9. The bipod is of a very sturdy construction and while playing I left it in the extended position, not only did it collide with branches, the odd tree and a few squad members heads, but took repeated beating when I dove into the prone position to stat gunning at enemy positions. The bipod has three adjustment heights and a central lock, which will fix the legs of the bipod into the upright position, for players in urban or dense woodland/jungle environments the bipod can be collapsed and folded inwards into the bottom of the fore grip. Be warned though they do have a tendency to drop
  10. The gas block is slightly off colour according to those in the know, but for the laymen it’s something that will get overlooked by most. This is again made from steel adding to the overall weight of the weapon. Attaching to this is the “Gas Collar” which is the imitation parts for the regulator, just like the real thing you are able to twist this to each of the set positions “normal and adverse” but remember this is just a dummy and has no effect on the weapon. The Iron sights at the front of the weapon needed tightening as mentioned before, but once locked down they are
  11. The A&K M249 Squad Automatic Weapon (M249 SAW) Review What with more and more replicas coming out of Chinese factories time has come for them to replicate something that many of us have been waiting for. Finally A&K has replicated the Classic Army M249 Mk.I, Mk.II and Para version of the famous Fabrique Nationale (FN) Minimi or Mini-Machine gun. Now having been stung once before by an A&K replica I was a little wary of the M249, but what with this gun pretty much being in the Number 1 spot on my wish list for as long as I can remember I was both eager to open the package
  12. Also, to add on to what uscmCorps has said, it also depends on the base colour of the item, the PTS parts were originaly a light tan colour, before the hydrographic film was applied, while the CASV was black. as you can see there is colour variations betweeen the PTS, DyTac and the Vltor parts, mainly due to the base colour.
  13. Picked this up yesterday......off to get a camera mount so I can finally start so Astrophotography!
  14. Are you sure that it's a real Magpul MIAD because I have the Black, OD, Dark Earth and the Multicam and all the plates as uscmCorps points out are extremely tight to adjust. I have seen the ACM copies and they are loose, check the grip to make sure it has all the logos and trademarks.
  15. Haven't seen that film for so long, well today I was on the way home and was unable to escape the epic gravitation pull of the local airsoft shop, Im suprised Yokohama is still on the map. I had to buy the following to give me enough epic win to escape: PGC gearbox Systema High speed Gear set System Cylinder and Piston set Systema Magnum High speed motor I was lucky to escape with my life. along with some other toys for other bits and peices.
  16. HAHAHHA I here you there buddy....she has a ELCAN, I just couldn't wait to use her! So the ACOG went on while WGC got thier act togetherr and sent it out.
  17. A&K M249 + 1 hour work= Kick *albatross* support weapon! Honestly with about 1 hours easy modifications this really is an awesome weapon, it's not even a project gun. The other mods I mentioned were to increase the over all potential. At the end of the day I only had 2 problems, hop up not working, 20 second fix, gear box not feeding 30 minute fix. sealing the cylinder 29.40 minute fix! I would have to say that if you know your way around a gear box, want a support weapon , then get this.
  18. Lakota industries will do it in what ever pattern you require, I will do a whole reviewon them later.
  19. And yes I will be doing a review on all those parts too, the vertical foregrip is already available......take a look in the pictures!
  20. Magsz, Cheers for spotting that, now corrected! It was actually one of the things Magpul pointed out to me when they looked over the review and it looks like it slipped past me. +1 to you sir!
  21. The one shown is a systema but I know the one's you mean, You mean these motors? And yes I am in the process of writting a review.
  22. Field Testing One of the first things you will notice when you hit the field is the “WOW!” factor, these parts turn heads, especially if you have managed to pick up some other parts for the weapon in Multicam. The weapon that I mounted them on has had the CASV front rail coated by Lakota Industries in Multicam hydrographic film as well as some parts by Dynamic Tactical. (More to come on that later in the Multicam review series) As a user of Multicam BDU’s the overall effect of the Magpul CTR and MIAD is excellent and really does help break up the outline of the weapon in
  23. CTR Stock The CTR (Compact Type Restricted Stock) is a 1:1 copy of the MAGPUL CTR stock, although this is the commercial version. For those of you wanting some more information regarding the real steel version of this product here is some information directly from the manufacturer: For more information on the MAGPUL CTR go here. The stock is made from a high quality DuPont™ Glass fill Nylon and the weight and balance of the product is excellent. Having used a crane stock for so long now I was a little unsure how I would take to the CTR stock but to be honest the actual fee
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