BigAl Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 I'm trying to fix up my HK M416SD, the problem being that the inner barrel unit it is of centre so the gun doesn't feed. I've stripped it down so far but have no idea how to separate the pouter barrel from the receiver. See pictures below. All help greatly received as this is my first time working on an AEG, mainly a pistol man. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites
Wenegade Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 Hey! you got the same problem like me! is it a g&p gun? i asked this: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...701&hl=wenegade and i got that link: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ic=93857&hl=ris i still couldt remove the ris, the outer ring simply doesnt move.. and i tried it in many ways... how hard was yours? €dit: big thx to tommygun I think you need this one but i am not sure... http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...GP266_cat_Tools Link to post Share on other sites
cazboab Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 You should be able(with some difficulty and swearing) to unscrew that circular thing with holes that looks like it came out of a mecano set after that everything just sorta slides out. Link to post Share on other sites
BigAl Posted March 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 Yeah I was starting to think about putting a bar through one of the wholes to give me more leverage. Is it a normal thread ie anti clockwise to loosen? Edit: Jesus this thing is tight, i'll have to spray some WD40 on it and try again later. Link to post Share on other sites
Brett230SX Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 Yeah I was starting to think about putting a bar through one of the wholes to give me more leverage. Is it a normal thread ie anti clockwise to loosen? Edit: Jesus this thing is tight, i'll have to spray some WD40 on it and try again later. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes the barrel nut is right handed threads and to loosen it you need to turn it counter clock wise. Those holes are for a special barrel nut tool called a Spanner Wrench. Do you know anyone who has an angle grinder? If so, they take a spanner wrench to tighten the grinding disks onto the grinder, and the spanner may fit the hole spacing it's worth a shot. Otherwise You could probably put a solid metal bar into one of the holes to try and give you some leverage to turn the nut. Just what ever you do, do it gently.. No beating and no pounding. And you may want to spray some pure silicone spray around the nut and let it soak into the threads. Afterwards when you go to re-assemble I would put a liberal amount of lithium grease on the upper receiver threads so that in the future you won't have this problem. Link to post Share on other sites
(un)cooldude Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 As was mentioned above, yes, you need to remove the barrel nut in order to get the outer barrel out of the receiver. Hence the name 'barrel nut'. Honestly, it should NOT be that tight, there's no need for it to be. That being said, I find that the easiest way to remove it, is to simply put the RAS tube back onto the barrel nut, so that the 2 pegs go back into those holes in the barrel nut, and then twist it loose with your hands. You can usually tighten down the retaining ring onto the RAS a bit to help keep it tight against the barrel nut. You'll find you can put quite a bit of leverage into it when you have the whole RAS tube to twist with both hands. I've never needed a spanner yet. The other thing you could use is a very stout pair of needle nose pliers. Open them up, stick each part of the nose into one of the holes in the barrel nut, and once again twist it counter-clockwise. Finally, keep track of any metal shims you find between the barrel nut, and the outer ridge of the outer barrel once you get it off. These (if used) help to position your RAS tube in the right spot once tightened. Good luck! Link to post Share on other sites
crazy harry Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 hi buddy, hope this helps, had a similar one. It's possible there is some form of thread locking agent involved, I managed to overcome this using a heat-gun for paint stripping on its lowest setting (just be very careful not to damage anything, fit foil deflector's round the body/slip ring, and Barrel etc and find a way to hold it securely while you warm it) and go slowly heating the Barrel locking nut evenly till it starts to become quite warm-but not enough to burn you or the shims if they are fitted (or anything else for that matter ), then try to unscrew the assembly carefully. If your barrel is a G&P one, it looks like the grub screw that locate's in the slot at 12o/c hasn't been fitted perhaps, causing the barrel to slip round as it was tightened. Link to post Share on other sites
goldenraptor Posted March 21, 2007 Report Share Posted March 21, 2007 NEVER put WD-40 on an AEG. Petroleum based lubricants will wear the hop-up down (if you get some on hop-up by mistake) and will help remove paint. Use silicon oil; its much better. Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted March 21, 2007 Report Share Posted March 21, 2007 Evening all. In this situation you can use any oil you like and in fact WD-40 or light engine oil would be preferable. You don't have to worry about any rubber parts since there arn't any installed and in any case you'll wash it down with petrol to remove the oil prior to assembly. The main reason why these nuts jam is because monkey metal/aluminium has a habit of 'knitting' together with a contact metal making it a right bugger to separate. Put a good dollop of oil/spray around the back end of the barrel nut, where it interfaces with the upper receiver, and let it soak into the thread for a few hours. Alternatively, try running the part under very hot water or boiling it or, in fact, both methods. As far as spanners go you need one of these or something similar knocked up in the garage. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...e=post&id=18018 When you re-assemble it smear the threads with grease allow for easier removal next time. Link to post Share on other sites
BigAl Posted March 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2007 Wow, thanks for all the help guys. I've ordered a Delta Ring Key from 6mil. I'm leaving it to soak in WD40 till it arrives. I am aware I need to make sure this is all cleaned of before I reinstal the barrel/hop. Cheers Again. Link to post Share on other sites
crazy harry Posted March 21, 2007 Report Share Posted March 21, 2007 Thanks for the +1 buddy, cheers! Just in case the grub screw you need is lost etc, I've just measured mine with a set of ok(ish) Dial Caliper's, and it looks like its a metric M3x5 grub screw (not 100% sure as to thread pitch, havent got a thread gauge handy), it takes a 1.5MM allen key to undo it. One tip i can add is if you have a G&P frontset like mine, with the fluted barrel, the grub screw that lock's the thread on the fore part of the barrel is identical to it. hope this helps again Good luck with it buddy. Link to post Share on other sites
Wenegade Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 hi guys its me again.. today i tried to loosen the outer ring, using a vice and a wrench, at the end nothing moved, but the outer Ring got big scratches.. Is there glue in? Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 The main reason why these nuts jam is because monkey metal/aluminium has a habit of 'knitting' together with a contact metal making it a right bugger to separate. Link to post Share on other sites
BigAl Posted March 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Got the spanner, it was still a bugger to budge, fixed know though. The grub screw was missing but i've managed to carefully lock it off in position, without grease goin on how hard this was to get off, it ain't gonna budge. Here's what it looks like. Cheers everyone. Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 That's a dandy lookin' gun. Link to post Share on other sites
Wenegade Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 true, it's the first "m4" with silencer out of the handguard i like, and i like it a lot! What parts did you use (and silencer)? Link to post Share on other sites
BigAl Posted March 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 HurricanE M416 Body and Sights, G +P Ris, Bull Barrel and unknown SOCOM Silencer. The silencer is marked .45 so will be replaced at some point. Want to get a fatter unit with a Concurve end like an MP5SD. I call it an H & K M416SD. Thinking about gettin a Madbull 470 for it, if I do I might then add one of those PSG1 style precision stocks. Link to post Share on other sites
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