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Trigger burning up, need some guidance


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In response to Greg's post yes my Gun is already a BB hose.

 

I recorded it and dumped it into an audio program and measured 26rds a second. Now, that was before straight wiring past a Tamiya connector, and installing deans, and installing gold motor contacts and before hooking it up to a 9.6 4700 MAH battery. So as you can imagine, it has jumped up quite a bit, I find myself stretching out my Mag brand springs then they feed fine.

 

I was looking at a computer chip that "Unconventional Airsoft" has, despite the price and probably no where to put it in my gun it looks like a good deal. But I think the Mosfet will be work untill I feel like forking over 70 dollars for a computer chip the size of my index finger. I am going to try out a new trigger I ordered for a few hundred rounds and see how that goes.

 

But in response to your statement, I really don't want any higher ROF than I have now. I am worried about just burning everything up in my gun, one thing that is quite suprising is the CA piston. I have had this gun for an entire year and there is almost no wear on it what so ever. It looks like its about 3 months old.

 

Once I get a microphone and the new switch I will record it and let you know what the ROF is. I thought 26 was high, mine is just ridiculous...

 

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Hmm, another CA M15A4 CQB user with bad wiring :[

 

If you get a MOFSET or not, I highly recommend getting a new switch *other than CA, for the CQB model you also need a new selector plate as the stock one is not compatible with other TM switches*. The insulation tends to strip when disassembling, which is dangerous and can lead to short circuits, destroyed batteries, and potential fires, in my case.

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Now I am interested to know where you are going to put the mosfet on your CQB, I'm assuming your CQB has a crane stock, will the mosfet fit into the stock tube ?

 

I would also like to fit one in my G&P CQB/R but I can not figure out how to fit it in the stock tube and still be able to collapse the stock fully.

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In response to Greg's post yes my Gun is already a BB hose.

 

I recorded it and dumped it into an audio program and measured 26rds a second. Now, that was before straight wiring past a Tamiya connector, and installing deans, and installing gold motor contacts and before hooking it up to a 9.6 4700 MAH battery. So as you can imagine, it has jumped up quite a bit, I find myself stretching out my Mag brand springs then they feed fine.

 

But in response to your statement, I really don't want any higher ROF than I have now. I am worried about just burning everything up in my gun, one thing that is quite suprising is the CA piston. I have had this gun for an entire year and there is almost no wear on it what so ever. It looks like its about 3 months old.

 

Once I get a microphone and the new switch I will record it and let you know what the ROF is. I thought 26 was high, mine is just ridiculous...

 

You are right. 26 is good for a stocker & those ca pistons are under rated. I personally find them reliable: Solid as a rock below 30rps, which is where I guess you are. The instant you cross that line, the pick up tooth does a bunk!

 

With a fet, you will save your triggers, but the rof will shoot up & probably be too much for that poor little piston.

 

Give it a try, but I reckon 2000 rounds of full-auto insanity before you have to slap in a new piston & consider the in humility of going for an 8.4v bat.

 

I now do this as a matter of form, all my old 9.6, 10.8 & 12 volters are on the shelf, replaced by well wired, deans connected, fetted guns & 7.4 or 11.1 lipos.

 

The 11.1s are only in guns over 380fps as I find they shred anything lower than that. 30C 7.4's are not only cheaper, lighter & smaller, but also give a healthy (28-30rps) rof without shredding the pistons.

 

The fact is that once you wire a gun right & drop a fet in, 9.6 is too much. Well, it is for me, 'cos I can't seem to keep a piston in one peice beyond 30!! :D

 

Oh, I have recorded a gun at 60rps & the mag never missed a beet. Unfortunately the piston went as soon as I took my finger off the trigger. Only to be expected when you connect a 270fps highspeed set up to a 25C 11.1v 3300 Flight power! Still,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,best 3 seconds & 180 rounds of my life. ;)

 

 

Greg.

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Hmm, another CA M15A4 CQB user with bad wiring :[

 

If you get a MOFSET or not, I highly recommend getting a new switch *other than CA, for the CQB model you also need a new selector plate as the stock one is not compatible with other TM switches*. The insulation tends to strip when disassembling, which is dangerous and can lead to short circuits, destroyed batteries, and potential fires, in my case.

 

I would argue that bad wiring is not the case. There is no indication to suggest that wiring played a role in the frying of my switch.

 

And what insulation are speaking of? I am stairing at my wiring right now with my gearbox open and there are no tears, holes, or any such blemish on any of them anywhere.

 

 

And to Greg...

What kind of mags did you use that fed 60RPS??!!

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And to Greg...

What kind of mags did you use that fed 60RPS??!!

 

 

You're going to love this, 'cos it's one of the most slagged off mags out there,,,,,,,,,,,,,wait for it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,P90 HIGH CAP!!!

 

Yes, I know. :rolleyes:

 

Despite what all the haters say, I find a strip down & bit of silicon (every now & then) goes a long way. ;)

 

Have also run g36's at about 35,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but not for long 'cos, as said, the pistons break. But no feed issues.

 

 

Greg.

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Sorry about the delay I left my camera at work.

 

post-13606-1215199956_thumb.jpg

 

 

Oh the black wire attaches to the motor

 

Thanks a bundle for that.

 

As it happens I'm using Infected's fets which inly have 3 wires, so your photo,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,FOUR? wires. :D

 

 

Greg.

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The two red ones seem to be soldered to the same point, but ask infected if this makes sense.

 

I am not an expert at Mosfets, but that might be why the two positive wires are soldered to the same point.

 

I put my gun back together and it is shooting "fine" now, I took the male switch out of a Dboys gearbox that I had laying around and it shoots. But not in Semi, so that might be just the shape of a different switch not meshing well with the cut off lever. Who knows, I am about done with this cr@p...

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