Endospore Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 Just got a CA SLR105 A1 in the mail today and it's burning fuses. I've tried different batteries, different fuses (all 20 amp), and using a fuse in another gun before trying it in the SLR. None of them have worked (up to I think 6 popped now). Every time I hook up the battery, the fuse turns red hot and splits instantly. I'm using an 8.4v battery. Anyone got any ideas? I know it's cryptic information, so let me know if I need to be more clear (in a bit of a rush). I did search, but found nothing. Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
doull76 Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 It's burning fuses without the trigger being pulled? I would think you've got a short somewhere. Check the wiring and look for any tears in the wire's insulation. Link to post Share on other sites
Endospore Posted September 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 Yes, that's correct. All I have to do is plug the battery in and the fuse pops. I gave the wires that are in the stock a once over and didn't find any damage, but I'll try to give them a better look this evening. Now, one thing someone suggested was that the motor was burned out. Is there any way this could be true? This person isn't a big airsofter or anything, but they did things with electronics in college, so I figured I'd take what they said with some merit Link to post Share on other sites
doull76 Posted September 30, 2008 Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 Well, since the motor doesn't get any power until the trigger is pulled, I don't see how that could be happening in this case. A burned out motor has to draw more amps to run, so the individual is correct in it being a possibility, but if it was in the case of trigger pull and then burning out fuses. If it is a short that is causing this, the tear in the wire is having to contact metal to complete the circuit. I'm not familiar with all the metal points in the CA AK's, but I am guessing it's going to be closer to the body or the mechbox. Link to post Share on other sites
Endospore Posted September 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2008 Ah, makes perfect sense to me. The fact of the wiring being exposed and hitting metal also makes perfect sense, considering about 90% of this gun is metal (I like it ). I'll definitely be looking up a disassembly guide tonight and I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks a lot! (my hope for this gun is restored ) Link to post Share on other sites
Endospore Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 Wow thumpy, thanks for all the details! I ran a bunch of checks, disassembled the outside down to the gearbox, and checked it out some more. I used a Multimeter and bridged the connection for a split second (while pulling the trigger) to see if there was any resistance. Turns out, there was! So I unhooked the motor and tried to spin it. Turns out, it did! So I took a screw driver and tried to lightly turn the gears just inside where I took the motor out. Turns out, they wouldn't budge. So it looks like the gearbox was locked up. I took it apart completely (haha, I'm typing around all the screws and gears right now) and the gear grease was all dried out and somewhat sticky. So I plan to clean it out, grease it up again, and reassemble it. Hopefully that'll do it. So that brings me to my next question: What kind of grease do I need? Should I just use the weight 25 silicon I have here, or do I need something else? I think I can get it back up to snuff, but unfortunately because the jerk lied to me (he said it worked perfectly when he sent it, but it's a bald-faced lie considering shipping cannot cause a gearbox to lock up) the value/sellability will go down. The whole idea of trading was to trade for something that I could sell easier. But, I guess I can just go back to him with a big, fat "OWNED" when I get it working perfectly for the price of a tube of grease Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 I mainly use plain white lithium grease on gear/moving parts, then silicone spray on rubber parts. Just make sure you don't get petroleum-based oil on the rubber parts otherwise they will get damaged and shrink. Link to post Share on other sites
Endospore Posted October 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 Any chance I could get something like that (the white lithium grease that is) at Autozone? Haha, it's on my way today. Any details you can give me on what type of grease (weights if there are any, different types, all that) to use would be greatly appreciated EDIT: Doh! Ignore my stupidity. Wasn't thinking. White lithium grease is used on cars and stuff, so it should be easy to find. Lol, I can't believe I missed that. (of course, I am just a budding mechanic after all, still don't have a lot of it down) Link to post Share on other sites
DanHS Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 White lithium grease can be found anywhere, but it dries out after a while if exposed to air (like inside a gearbox). I prefer to use Radioshack lube gel on everything, it never dries, never breaks down (well, it takes so long to break down you'll probably be servicing the gearbox again before it does), and stays where you put it really well so the gears won't sling off most of their grease as they spin. Works equally well in the cylinder, just don't put more than a fine film in the cylinder and on the piston head o-ring. Since you have it open I would personally recommend replacing the piston head, I never liked CA's four giant ports near the outer edges of the piston head, they never seem to seal all that well. Link to post Share on other sites
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