Stealthbomber Posted July 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Bit of an update... I finally got around to hacking the sides of the rail off my AGM M4 which left me with this. If nothing else, this gives you an idea of the height difference to be overcome. Exactly 10mm if I remember correctly. Note that the huge nasty countersunk screws will NOT be part of the final build. I'm just using them to hold the rail on at the moment cos they're easy to fit and remove. I've also finished the work on the rail to make it fit and it's really solid. I'll put up some pictures of the mod's to the rail along with the next pic's of the receiver. Link to post Share on other sites
AKRay Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Well, that's pretty much all the incentive I need to fix the rail difference on my GBB416. Yours is coming along nicely. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Damn you, stealth, now I want to do this as well. AAAAAAAAAGH my wallet, it burns! Link to post Share on other sites
Unit 318 Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 I really like how this came out! You need to fill in those holes though. You need the 416's grip now! Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted July 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 A few more pictures.... It's not perfect but it's okayish. These pic's were taken after I gave the join a dust with a filler/primer so I sprayed and then sanded a few times to even things up before finally starting to paint. I'm a great believer in patience with paint. 2 days after you paint a gun you can scrape it off with your fingernail. 2 weeks later the same paint is rock hard. As a result, I've been leaving it a day between sessions with the primer. The black paint is going on as I write this. From the top you can see a huge hole in the rail that I had to fill in as well as the final pins used to secure the rail to the receiver and the curved blob of putty used to tidy up the join between the rail and receiver at the back. Here you can see the hole in the front of the receiver I drilled to mate with a pin poking out of the RIS. Note, as well that there's a 1/4 of a rail "block" at the front of the rail. I fixed the RIS to the front of the receiver and then used another rail alongside the receiver to set the position of the receiver rail. It seems that the RIS is half a block too long, or too short. If I drop a scope mount across the join I know it fits perfectly now so I'm happy. Worth checking if you're using this RIS and ever plan on using a mount that'll seat either side of the join. I promise I will take some pics of the other parts next time. Link to post Share on other sites
mysl1 Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 *fruitcage* fantastic. Now I have reason to buy AGM m4 and mod it to delta-faceshooter-gbb-hk416 Link to post Share on other sites
raito Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 great mod, while your at it, are you going to mod the magwell too? Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted July 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 great mod, while your at it, are you going to mod the magwell too? Nope. As I said, this really only happened because I prefer HK iron sights to AR15 ones and I was trying to figure out how to fit a 416 RIS to an M4. I don't really have any urge to create a proper HK416 replica. If I did I probably would have just bought a HK416 AEG. Link to post Share on other sites
manik Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 it looks awesome! I wish I would have popped in there before you put primer on it to say to round the bulge on the left outside where the charging handle slides into place to match the 416 upper. But it still looks awesome! i cant wait to see the finished product!!! Edit: I just noticed too that the curve you made s too far back... it should taper off to about the center of the selector switch, maybe shave more o the next rail up. here is a pic of one of my VFC HK416's for reference. Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Regarding the bulge in the side of the upper, Cazboab already pointed that out to me and I ignored him. TBH, it was a combination of not being too bothered about authenticity and also that I don't really like the idea of sticking random blobs of milliput to things. If I was to modify the shape of the receiver I'd find myself drilling holes and fixing tiny threaded pins in the area just to make sure the milliput had something to grip to and there was no way I was gonna bother with that. Interesting about the curve at the back of the rail. The JG RIS is numbered and I could see that the last numbered notch was "18" then there's a blank (17) so there should be 16 rail notches on the top of the receiver and that's what dictated the length of the rail and, thus, where the curve went at the end of it. I can't exactly put my finger on it but I think the dimensions of the AGM receiver are a little bit out. The top rail is certainly lower than is should be (RISs don't line up with the receiver rail) and I wonder if the length of the receiver is a bit out too. Link to post Share on other sites
manik Posted July 21, 2009 Report Share Posted July 21, 2009 Interesting about the curve at the back of the rail. The JG RIS is numbered and I could see that the last numbered notch was "18" then there's a blank (17) so there should be 16 rail notches on the top of the receiver and that's what dictated the length of the rail and, thus, where the curve went at the end of it. I can't exactly put my finger on it but I think the dimensions of the AGM receiver are a little bit out. The top rail is certainly lower than is should be (RISs don't line up with the receiver rail) and I wonder if the length of the receiver is a bit out too. With the Picatinny Rails you dont count the notches, you count the slots. look at the pic I put on the first page of the two guns with the top rails showing together. notice how the last marked is "14" and the next actual marked slot is "18". the 15 on the receiver side and 16 on the free float rail side are not present because of the interlock, but counted because that is where they would be. Link to post Share on other sites
Unit 318 Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Can you buy the 416 grip for it? I know I'm annoying but it just doesn't feel like a 416 without that grip Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted July 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Can you buy the 416 grip for it? I know I'm annoying but it just doesn't feel like a 416 without that grip Yeah, you can buy em. TBH, I deliberately picked summat else because I have a HK416-style pistol grip on my AEG M4 and I wanted to try one of these fancy new ones that fill in the area at the rear of the lower receiver. I tend to have a habit of doing things all kinda out-of-order. I will take some pic's of the (almost) finished thing and post em up tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites
Unit 318 Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Woop woop [link] Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Any pics of this finished? Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Any pics of this finished? I suppose it's about time... Apologies for the delay. here we have the barrel I bought from EBB. The collar that the barrel nut clamps to is thinner than the collar on a WA (or AGM) barrel which means you can use an AEG barrel nut to hold the barrel on. You can't do this with a WA or AGM barrel cos an AEG barrel nut will barely bite on the first thread of the receiver. The Barrel nut is from a DBoys SIR conversion which I had left over for some reason. The hole through the middle of the AEG barrel nut is smaller than you need for a WA barrel so you need make it bigger. I used a dremel for this. This barrel nut is the perfect size for the RIS to seat on. Couldn't really be better. The pins that secure the gas-block on the HK416 are a different distance apart than a regular M4. The position of the front one is about right so I cut a new rear pin slot. Oh, notice that there's also a 1" extension screwed onto the barrel as well. Here you can see the modifications I made to the gas-block. Left-hand hole was there already and is for a grub-screw to clamp the gas-block to the barrel. Right-hand hole is for a screw to go into to allow you to fix the position of the RIS. You'll see what I mean in a minute. Middle hole was the toughie. That one is for the screw that actually secures the RIS to the gas-block. I had to grind away some of the gas-block to get it in the right position and make it tidy. Here you can see the countersunk hole I drilled in the front of the RIS to secure it to the gas-block. You can see I've also got an allen bolt in place to fix the position of the RIS. Finished front end. Hopefully this explains what the allen bolt does. If you tighten the fixing screw all the way it'll pull the RIS upward so it touches the gas-block. That allen bolt just gives the RIS something to seat on and maintain the correct gap to the gas block. All looks pretty tidy in the end IMO. A pic of the back end of the RIS. Drilled and tapped and then a small screw fitted and the head lopped off. And the corresponding hole in the front of the receiver, drilled so the threaded pin on the RIS will just slide in. Note how well the addition rail joins with the receiver top. Back end of the receiver showing how I used milliput to blend the new rail in and smooth it. I really didn't spend long enough on this but it looks okayish. Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted August 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Close-ups of the receiver showing how milliput was used to fill in the gaps in the receiver and tidy everything up. I did this by hand, just getting water on the milliput and smoothing it with a small glue-spreader. Again, it's not perfect. You can see the uneven finish in some lights but it looks fine in others. Top of the new rail. You can see the two threaded pins at front and back but there's another one in the middle but I filled over that with milliput. I should probably have filled all the holes but I didn't really see the point. The finished gun. Looks, erm, normal. I guess that's the best you can hope for after doing summat like this. Here's a pic of the gun next to my ICS M4 SIR with a CQB barrel. Quite surprised how short the HK416 is. Because it's slimmer than the SIR it looks longer. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Absolutely fatantistically brilliant. Damn you, Stealth, I really, really want to do one of these myself now. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh my poor wallet... Link to post Share on other sites
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