Tommygunn Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 After a request of how to mod a peq to take a laser I thought I'd post the details here plus some other bits of information. Mod 1: This is specifically to adapt a G&P PEQ battery box to take a HurricanE Glock type laser but no doubt the principals are the same for all PEQs and similar lasers. (Apologies for lack of internal photos but this has been done post build.) The laser: You will need to crack the PEQ case open but that is pretty easy as it's that sort plastic that even superglue doesn't glue 100%. Now on the real PEQ the visible laser is on the right hand side, if your looking down the sights, so that is where we'll put it. If you have a G&P 10.8v this mod will not be possible because there is no room. All you need to do is remove the fake lens and dremel out the hole as evenly and centrally as possible to fit the diameter of the laser. Once achieved I then set the laser body on a bed of Milliput (epoxy putty) to fix it in place. I let the rear of the laser over hang the putty so that in future it would be possible to access the laser battery compartment. You may also want to apply a thin layer of vaseline or oil to the body of the laser so that it doesn't permanently stick to the putty so you can lever it out at a later date. Of course some experimentation is required before the putty is cured so that the desired zero is achieved but you should end up with something like this: Also remember to mount the laser so that the adjusting grub screws are exposed! The above pic pretty much explains it all. You can see the laser in place, where I drilled a hole to allow the wire out and where I would actually have prefered, in hindsight, to bring the wire out (blue circle) as it is a bit more real steel. The red square I will refer to later. All that needs to be done is place the lens strap back on for more realism and the job is finished. You could enlarge the spare lens hole and place it over the exposed laser but that is up to you. Mod 2: When I bought my M4 and PEQ I thought that there was no way I was having any exposed battery wires... so I hid them. Again the case needs to be broken open and the battery removed and a hole drilled through the PEQ mount to thread the wires through. Make sure you know the exact position it is going to be mounted i.e. the thick mount area over the relevent RAS bolt hole. Obviously you'll have to detach the plugs which I also recommend you chuck and attach 'Corally' type plugs which I have fitted. They are far more compact and have zero resistance compared to Tamiya/Kyosho type plugs. You will also have to remove the leaf spring in the front of the RAS to allow the wires through the bolt hole. As refered to in the first mod in the 'red square' you might want plug the old battery wire hole up with milliput for realism. Mod 3: If you have a CA M16/M4, which is of the type that does not have a gas tube but you have always wanted one but didn't want to spend top dollar on after-market parts, then here's what to do. I'll let the pics do the explaining and fill in afterwards: In the above pics you can see the aluminium tube which I bought at a local model shop which is 4mm in diameter. (Anyone know real steel diameter?). Sorry about the crappy look of the tube but it has been modified from my original effort as I got the pipe bends in the wrong place (too close to the chamber). You will also note the holes drilled in the receiver and delta ring collar to allow the tube to seat properly and that I have aligned the cir-clip and collar spring likewise. 4mm is about the biggest you can go without filing chunks out of the delta ring and the RAS clamp as you will observe tolerances are quite tight, however, aluminium tube is quite forgiving. As you can see I affixed the other end of the pipe with a split tube clamp type system - very crude but it does the job. This could certainly be improved by either crimping the aly tube like a pistol or rifle blank cartridge and placing the point inside the Allen bolt recess or putting a short piece of tube over the Allen bolt and gas tube. NOTE: I found with my brand of RAS(i.e. CA RAS - it's not a RIS as it is clamped in) that the bolt that tightens the RAS clamp to the delta ring is too long and will cause deformation of the gas tube. You must grind the bolt down so that it doesn't squash it. Another reason why my version looks tatty. Anyway, you finish up with this: Not bad I thought. EDIT: Oh yeah, if anyone needs further explanation or other/detailed pics then just ask. Link to post Share on other sites
elrey Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 Moved as requested. Link to post Share on other sites
screamin_weasel Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 haha i thought this was another thread asking "wat shud i stick on my gunzorr?", too which iw as going to reply 'bolt a desert eagle to it". however, if i had an armalite, this sounds liek it woudl be truely helpful. good pics, good explanation, top effort dude. Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted December 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 ha ha no way. Cheers bud. Link to post Share on other sites
PolarBear Posted December 3, 2005 Report Share Posted December 3, 2005 You said this wont work with a G&P 10.8v battery, what about the G&P 9.6v3300 mah? (that's what I have) Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted December 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2005 Oh yeah, 9.6v would be fine as it uses 8 cells so would look like the diagram below. If you did have a 10.8v you could chop one of the cells out and make it a 9.6v. Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted September 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2006 Seem to have forgotten to say what I did to the fuse. Well since I have modified it today from using spade connectors to using miniature ring connectors here is how it is looking: Quote from other thread. I've dispensed with the spade connectors and used miniature ring connectors instead, drilled 3mm holes in the blade fuses and connected the whole lot with 3mm bolts. Finally I shielded the whole lot with some large 12mm shrink tube, which once shrunk, I snipped at one end to allow access. A lot sturdier, very compact and no doubt has better conductivity. Link to post Share on other sites
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