Lightning10 Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 I have met a guy on another forum who has taken his KJW M700, free-floated the barrel and bedded it, keeping the stock barrel in, and being able to shoot a dime-sized circle consistently at 25 ft. I am looking to do the same process with my gun, but can't find a disassembly guide w/ pics any where. I've searched 3 different forums and thought of every Google Search imaginable but can't find diddly-squat. So if any of you know of a KJW M700 disassembly guide, could you please provide me a link. +1 to first useful link, I'm getting desperate. Greg Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 TappedOpps at ASR is the guy you're modeling after, right? There isn't much available as far as a takedown guide, but I'll walk you through a basic takedown to get you to the core components. Three screws need to come out to remove the barreled action. One is behind the trigger guard, one is at the front of the mag well and then the sling stud post, which is the front sling lug. Once you have removed the barreled action from the stock, you'll be ready for your bedding job. It's pretty obvious how to free float the barrel - you just leave that aluminum disc-shaped bit - and the sling stud iirc - out when you put it back together. Be advised however that the newer stocks from KJW are spotty - some are straight, some cant down toward the ground, some to one side or the other. What I'm saying is that free-floating the outer may produce a weird effect on your rifle by making the outer barrel look crooked. Only one way to find out, though. Another note of caution with free floating your outer barrel. All stresses applied to the outer barrel are now going to be absorbed by the collar at the receiver. I've heard of outers breaking off. Ouch. Use caution. So, once you have the barreled action out of the stock, up-end it so that you're looking at the magazine well. You'll see a round collar nut that has several holes in it just behind the front of the receiver. Loosen that nut and the outer barrel will loosen. Once you have the collar nut all the way backed out of the outer barrel, you can remove the outer. Pay attention to the little square cut on the top of the outer barrel that is in line with your front sight post. You'll need to use that to align your outer barrel when you put it back together. As far as the hop up removal portion of the job, I'd love to help you with that as well if you were interested, but my memory is a bit faded there and my rifles are with the team's guns up at my friend's house, so I'm afraid I can't walk you through that part. I haven't done the bedding job, myself, and probably won't. Our rifles reach 200-250 feet with relative accuracy, even on a day like today with 5-10 mph breeze. I can see why Opps did his rifle bedding job, but personally I don't see as much benefit in it as he does. That's alright, however, as I've been wrong before. My experiences with the KJW suggest that accuracy is more dependent on consistent velocity and hop up than the position and alignment of the outer/inner barrel. Keep in mind also that we hand picked our rifles from a bunch that were in stock by inspecting them in person, so the bedding job may be warranted in some cases, but perhaps not in ours. Good way to check your rifle's inner barrel alignment is to pop the two phillips screws off of the front sight post then remove the end plug and check out the inner barrel. Is it off center when not held in place by the end plug? How about after you free float it? Is it better then? Hope that post helped. Link to post Share on other sites
Lightning10 Posted January 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 k, thx, it does help, and yes, Tapped_Ops of ASR was the guy I was mentioning. once again, thanks for your help. Greg Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 If you run into trouble tearing things down or putting em back together, holler. Happy to help. Link to post Share on other sites
Lightning10 Posted January 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 hey, I sent you a PM, but I'll ask here too in case you didn't recieve it. first off, I don't think my inner barrel has any imperfections, as the shots don't swerve in any particular direction and atm, the gun is fairly accuracte, considering I'm using Green Gas. so I think the float will help. also, what accuracy were you achieving at the above ranges? 50% or more hits on human-sized targets? also, the reciever is where the BB's enter the barrel correct? I know this is probably a stupid question, but I'm new to dissecting guns and don't want to screw up. another stupid question: the barreled action is the innerbarerel, outer barrel, and hopup, correct? you also mentioned some of the outer barrels breaking. is there a way to help prevent this? thx for any help you can give, Greg Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 replied to your pm and answered the above. accuracy-wise I'd say we're well above 50% on a stationary, torso-sized target. that's on HPA though, not Green. RLB at airsoftretreat plays a KJW m700 with Propane and .36g straights and reports very good accuracy at 200+ feet. Link to post Share on other sites
Lightning10 Posted January 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 good, I myself am getting the propane adaptor within 2 weeks. k, just did the operation, you're right, a lot easier than I thought it would be. My first step in gun dissecting, lol. Should the outer barrel be able to move? If I touch it it moves around a bit. This is supposed to happen, coorect? Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 good, I myself am getting the propane adaptor within 2 weeks. k, just did the operation, you're right, a lot easier than I thought it would be. My first step in gun dissecting, lol. Should the outer barrel be able to move? If I touch it it moves around a bit. This is supposed to happen, coorect? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Not when it's ready to be reassembled, no, it should be tight. Use a wrench or screwdriver to tighten that collar nut (the one with the holes in it) so that there's NO movement in the outer barrel. Be advised, that nut will be a bugger to loosen the next time you take it off, so you may want to draw or scratch an arrow on there so you know which way to turn it to loosen it. For some reason I get a mental block when it's time to take that off, heh. Link to post Share on other sites
Freelancer Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 Hey wup? What do you think about the KJW takedown model? I think that with some of the QC issues, there might be some problems with the fitting between parts. It's still fairly new so I don't know. I am being offered to exchange my newish KJW m700 for a takedown as a guinea pig. But I won't be around long enough for a good test as I'm leaving April for a changing of life moment. Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 Your call, but if it were me, no. You're on the right track with the reasoning. Link to post Share on other sites
Freelancer Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 Heh, thought as much. Although I love the KJW m700. Real fun although it's not the most accurate rifle it's still decent. Mine doesn't seem to have any abnormalities at all and it seems it might just be a lucky one out of the batch. Link to post Share on other sites
Lightning10 Posted January 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 k, I'll try that and post results edit: just tryed it and it works. Just for reference wupjak, if the barrel is pointing to your left, push the collar nut away from you to tighten it. also, wupjak, I've done what you said, there doesn't seem to be any major accuracy difference at the moment. Do you think switching to Propane along w/ the free-float will do the job? Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 Thanks for the tip on the barrel, I'll likely forget it in 3 seconds as I usually do. Try one thing at a time so you can identify what is helping and what isn't. Float it, clean the barrel, see if your accuracy improves any. What kind of bbs are you shooting? That'll make a huge difference. Also, be sure to allow about 15-20 seconds between shots to allow the magazine to warm up a bit. Not sure if you were aware of it or not, but magazine cooling will affect subsequent shots and change velocities, which then changes the amount of hop up on the bb and so on. Link to post Share on other sites
Lightning10 Posted January 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 k, I'll keep that in mind. atm, I'm stuck with Infinity.28's. My gun didn't come with a cleaning rod, unfortunately, so is there any other way to clean it, or do you need one? Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 .28s aren't that bad, actually. They need a bit more hop up than some other brands, but they're ok for plinking around with. as I said in my reply to your pm, you'll need a cleaning rod of the appropriate length, cleaning patches and silicone spray to clean the bore. all should be available at walmart or any other sporting goods store with shooting supplies. Link to post Share on other sites
Lightning10 Posted January 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 thx very much. Link to post Share on other sites
KyberAuZ Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 Hey Wupjak, you're a master on that HPA thread at ASR. I'm hoping to convert my two KJWs when I get the chance and the funds. Is your APS still up for grabs? On topic, I'm having a hard time identifying this "collar nut" you mentioned. My KJs shoot fine, but I'm still itching to take it all apart to clean them and at least wrap the hops with teflon tape in the meantime. Any pics from you or anyone else with how to get this outer barrel off would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -Z Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 22, 2006 Report Share Posted January 22, 2006 APS2 went bye bye on ebay awhile back. Some lucky cat got it for 450 bucks. *shake head* What a steal. Anyway... I'd take photos for you guys but my m700s are up at my buddy's house. My HPA rig is right over there *waves hand,* but that's not going to help much, is it? Lay the barreled action with the scope mount on the carpet/workbench and the bottom of the rifle facing up, point the muzzle to your right. If you take the magazine well off and set it aside (don't lose that brass shim/washer!), you'll be looking into the bottom of the bolt. You'll see the black, round seal into which gas is expelled to propel the BB. To the right of that will be a round black metal thing with holes that are evenly spaced. That's the nut you'll need to loosen to get the outer barrel unthreaded and removed. Be careful as you work on the gun, there are some plastic parts - like the hop up housing - for which there are no easy replacements at the moment. Take your time and take notes, if necessary. I know I repeat myself with that warning, but it saves broken hearts and broken guns. Good luck. Link to post Share on other sites
KyberAuZ Posted January 23, 2006 Report Share Posted January 23, 2006 Thanks Wupjak. Right after posting I was able to find the other ASR thread about the hopup disassembly part (in the propane thread). Y'all are very helpful! With my teflon tape, should I just wrap the silver metal part of the hopup where the bolt connects to fire the BB? There's a slight seam on the two halves of that piece, so I'm thinking that will be a big help. Or, should I wrap the whole plastic hopup assembly? That would make it hard to fit back in, so I'm think it's just that silver part? Or do I have to take it apart... I'm planning on taking out those grub screws and cleaning the hop rubber tomorrow, as soon as I find an allen small enough for them.. What else...oh. If I filled the space between the outer and inner barrel with dynamat or foam or something similar, would it do much difference by way of muffling the sound further? I had some lying around and am bored. I'm got a 290mm KM silencer on it right now which does a nice job already, but like I said, I'm bored. Thanks for all your help. $450 is indeed a steal for that APS! This HPA M700 thing is going to take some time, but hopefully I can get it running like yours. Do you do HPA mag conversion services by the way? I can get all the other parts together, but I don't want to chance the drilling and tapping part. Thanks, Z Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 24, 2006 Report Share Posted January 24, 2006 You'll want to take the silver pieces apart by removing the small phillips screw. The halves will separate, DO NOT lose the black piece that will be sitting on top of the bucking. You'll want to wrap the bucking starting just in front of the depression of that little piece. Spiral the tape toward the muzzle and down off of the bucking onto the inner barrel. About a half inch is sufficient. Check the seal by covering the bucking end of the inner barrel with your finger. Blow into the muzzle end of the inner barrel. No air should escape around the front edge of the bucking or anywhere else. Dynamat, foam, nah. Sound only comes from the muzzle. Suppressor will do the most to quiet the rifle down. Don't do conversion services, no, sorry. You'll need to contact paintball stores, you'll need to drill and tap the mag to accept a 1/8" NPT fitting. Link to post Share on other sites
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