Bob the Angry Potato Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 As I have heard many complaints of the FA-MAS to be an annoyingly creaky weapon, I decided to take action about this. This is a guide, so other FA-MAS owners and prospective buyers can know what to expect, and how to take care of it. Taking my FA-MAS apart, I placed tape on some internal spots where creaking was happening (namely the foregrip). First, remove the foregrip. At the walls of the foregrip, the part that touches the body of the gun, add a thin layer of tape. It is not noticeable from the outside of the gun, yet it makes the foregrip a bit tighter, and removes the plastic-on-plastic creaking that plagues the FA-MAS in that particular area. You don't need to add any tape to the body itself, simply the part of the foregrip that touches this part. Next part was a lot harder... The pistol-grip, as many FA-MAS owners know, is actually one of the main spots of the creakiness, due to plastic-on-plastic sounds. Following Robot2000 of Arnie's Airsoft's advice, I tried to pry open the hatch at the bottom of the pistol-grip (useful for storing small tools/ammo, by the way) with a flat-head screwdriver. However, this didn't work, I wondered why, as many owners are able to do so with their fingers. I promptly tried again, and handed the gun to a friend to try as well- it wouldn't open, even with prying incessantly with the screwdriver. Next thing, I tried even HARDER. While trying to pry it open, the screwdriver slipped, taking a small chunk out of my finger and hitting me in the chest. I had to promptly run off, bandage up my finger and take a look at the bruise before returning. After this, I decided "Screw it", and took out the hinge that kept it in the first place. This was done easily- I found a tiny screwdriver, placed it in the hole, and pushed the hinge out. There were no catches or gimmicks, it slid out without any difficulty. I stuck the screwdriver in at the hinge side, and applied pressure one side at a time. Each side popped up with a loud 'Snap' sound, and opened fairly easily... except I noticed it had GLUE residue in it. No-one else had glue in it, at least on Arnie's, however perhaps mine is either a different batch or simply different in some other way. After that, I unscrewed the small metal screw at the bottom (the pistol-grip, while you cannot tell from the outside, is hollow with very thick walls. There is a screw placed at the bottom, which you can remove). This led to me being able to take off the pistol-grip fairly easily, it simply popped off. I applied some tape to the place it screws over, a small, rectangular nub sticking out of the FA-MAS body, and put the grip back on (taking a while to screw it back in, there were metal threads so I could put it in tightly without damaging anything). After I was sure it was REALLY solid, I tested it. Surprisingly enough, this got rid of 90 percent of the creaks. It feels quite solid now, the gun does not make many sounds while moving it around (if any at all), and the parts do not wobble at all. All in all, it's a decent project, which will only cost you some tape, 10 minutes (at most) and a screwdriver. Sorry about the pictures, I used pictures existing beforehand from my FA-MAS review, before I had done the modification. Link to post Share on other sites
bullzebub Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 every MAS ive tinkered had the hatch glude... there is another way ... paint the gun! that way you get no creak and a less shiny gun :-) its more expencive though... Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted March 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Yeah... it's way more expensive, this method took a few cents, and about 10 minutes (only because I couldn't figure out how to open the grip at first). Doing it quickly, after reading this review you should KNOW what you're doing, you could even cut it down to under 5. Hmm... glad I'm not the only one with the hatch glued. Now, inside the hollow pistol-grip, I keep a small baggie of .25s. Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Thanks so much for the piccys of how to do this. I'm going to try this tonight and post my results! Oh, by the way, is there any particular kind of tape you recommend? Just any old tape will do? Even cellophane that everyone should have laying around somewhere? Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted March 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Ah, sorry, I just got back. Well, I used regular tape, actually. However, I don't think this sort is best suited for the job. Perhaps Duct tape and other sorts would fare better, as it would make less noise when rubbed against plastic. However, this tape has done fine- I believe all sorts will work. Cheers! EDIT: I'll have to answer all questions on Sunday, I'm heading off for a few days to do some exams. I'll do my best to answer any queries then. Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Quick question! over my lunch break, I took at look at my SV - it doesn't appear to have the hatch at the bottom of the pistol grip. Am I missing something? I was just glancing real quick to plan this project out for tonight - maybe I'm wrong, but has anyone done this to an SV? Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted March 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Hmm... I'm back, momentarily. Before I leave, I can answer this quickly. I glanced at the FA-MAS manual, it's printed for both the F1 and the SV. It appears that the pistol-grip is the same... if you don't have the manual, check the section at top-left, somewhere. I believe it's there. Also, I got the general idea for the mod from other things from some folks... I believe Robot2000 had an SV? It should be possible. Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 ok, thanks - I'll get to work on this tonight and try to post some pics! Link to post Share on other sites
Carson Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 I've done the same thing on my FAMAS F1, except with black ducktape. Worked a treat, although im yet to try the tape between trhe body and pistolgrip. Cheers for the tip. Link to post Share on other sites
Carson Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Edit: Stupid thing posted twice, but couldn't delete this post. Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 AAARgh!!! I can't find my tape anywhere! I must be out of the stuff. I'll pick some up in the morning and get those pics up - sorry! Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Ok, got some tape.... and I apologize for the crappiness of my camera - I hope the tape isn't too hard to see. First, here is the slightly modified handguard of my FAMAS SV: You can see here how I've covered the right hand side with tape - letting just a bit overlap the side: repeated on the otherside: I then covered the front tabs as well, knowing that when I put it back on the gun, it would all press down nice and firmly. (yes, I'm an Eagles fan) Once I put the handguard back on, the tape is hardly noticable at all. I must admit, while handling the gun by the handguard, everything is nice and solid and significantly less creaky. So far, so good - I'm impressed. Pics of the pistol grip modifcation are next! Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Ok, now for the pistol grip. This is the major area of creakiness, especially for an SV. In this first pic, you can see the hole for the hinge that will need removed: Now, I used an allen wrench to pop it out - came right out with just a little bit of pressure: I then popped open the panel on the bottom - there was definitely signs of glue, though it still popped right off pretty easily: With the panel off, I could get at the screw that holds the pistol grip on: After removing it, on the SV, you also have to carefully push the front of the grip - these tabs up and over this flap and then slide it off: That exposed the area that needs the tape: Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Next, I added tape pretty liberally to any spot where I thought the pistol grip made contact with the gun body: I then put the grip back on - it was nice and tight and solid feeling, even from just one layer of tape - I had excess sticking out, so I used a knife to very carefully trace the edges of the tape, and then picked it off so none was showing: Now, does this look like a famas that's got a bunch of scotch tape inside? I must say, I am incredibly impressed by the amount to which this reduced the creakiness of the SV. Its quiet as a mouse compared to what it used to be. Can't thank you enough Mr. Angry Potato for pointing this out. I couldn't be happier with the results. It did take me about 20 minutes though Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcodez Posted March 4, 2006 Report Share Posted March 4, 2006 Also on my famas there's a gap where the handguard meets the body towards the trigger unit. Click. It's circled. Now take some electrical tape (Or whatever you got) Place it on the U side of the grip, and shave of the excess to create a thin | of tape on either side. This nearly eliminates the squeak that eminates from that contact point. On the Pistol Grip, I actually put the tape IN the grip and not on the gun. I covered ALL sides where the grip would contact the nub in a few layers of tape. Oh, when you put the tape in the foregrip (On the sides) take a razor blade and shave off what ever is on the TOP (You know, the part of the firegrip that you can see, most people have tape all over this) and shave it off. The tape ONLY has to be on the INSIDE of the grip, not the top, OR the outside. And putting the tape in the front over the securing parts is a good idea. My grips a pain to put on and a pain to take off. It's secure as a rock made out of ABS. Now I wanna make my cocking handle sound more... Metalliky. SHICK-CHA Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 Ah... KingCodez, I overlooked that. Thanks As per n00bTard, thanks for the pics! That shows it perfectly- however, taking off the trigger-guard for the F1 is easier, I believe, you simply undo a screw and it'll pop off. Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Today, I replaced the tape with something like this sort: and it cut down creaking by another lot, as it allows for more friction. Link to post Share on other sites
Kingcodez Posted March 17, 2006 Report Share Posted March 17, 2006 Bob, what kind of tape is that? I was wondering if the medical tape that feels like fabric would work better. What ever it is it needs to have a rough, non shiney side. Also there's another area that can use some tape. It's where the Handle (Where the sights are) meets the body. I noticed some creaking there. Tommarow I'm going to whip out the tape and hopefully solve this matter. I wonder is rubber cement would help the creaking. Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted March 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2006 That tape? Call me an idiot if you want, but I can't remember the name of that sort of tape. It's a sort of masking tape- it feels like paper on one side, and doesn't make sounds if you rub it against your finger. You can write on it easily, too- it's paper based, definately. Medical tape would definately work great, actually- that's actually a great idea. I haven't taken the handle off, yet- I'll try to do this and get a guide up, but my hopes aren't very high (I have bad luck doing that sort of thing). I'm trying to custom- CNC an upper-receiver, minus the handle- it will be replaced with a G36 handle one instead. Link to post Share on other sites
Carson Posted March 17, 2006 Report Share Posted March 17, 2006 I beleive the tape made of paper is masking tape. If you want a way of silencing parts of the famas, is to get the foam part of a standard mousemat and use double sided sticky tape to hold it in place. This work pretty well in the stock where the gearbox is. Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted April 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Done yet another insanely-obvious mod for the FA-MAS, that touches up on the problems that people complain about incessantly. This one cost me almost nothing, and I didn't even have to switch it around. -Slinging a FA-MAS F1 without modding the bipod or removing it Easy solution- Use a guitar strap. I have a completely-black one so it's much easier and looks nicer. The permanant end of the guitar strap fits over the bipod swivel, and doesn't hurt the function- and the other one comes right off. Simple as hell, and quite sturdy- and you don't need to lose the bipod or revert to SV to use it, either. Pics shall be up soon. Link to post Share on other sites
Bob the Angry Potato Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 PIRAETS LAWL. Those're only on for fun, really. They'll be peeled off come the next game, if I decide to. Link to post Share on other sites
Scavenger Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 great post! Thanks for the tips! will certanly do this to my creaky SV right now. Link to post Share on other sites
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