MrManiac

Some very nice 1911s on here 'ED-SKaR', love those 1930ish ones, very cool. Hope to do a full auto 1911 soon myself. 'cool-breeze87', just gorgeous and reminds me the Kimber TLE II has to be next on my want list.

You only 'Dremel' out one side of the inner front of the slide (be careful doing this) just like it is on a real steel 1911, then the bushing just rotates into it tightly enough that it wont fall out. Ive fitted bushings to standard 5.1s with their original plugs and they fit tight enough that they dont fall out. Have a look at my YouTube page for my videos on how to do this, link in my signature

Nope only WE/Socom gear type 1911s im afraid. TM barrel bushing notches are different and more like real steel. You could 'Dremel' out the notch so it would fit I suppose, as ive fitted numerous bushings to 5.1 Hi-capa slides this way. Tayste-2000, I love the 'Hitman' set, very 'cool' Its a pity TM dont do the Se7en 1911 with squared trigger guard or I'd have one myself.

Very nice noir-esk photos.

Distracted...never, really? Nice photos mate, you lucky bugger:D .

'bankz5152' they are beautiful shots of the Dezzy. 'Sigma3' your model hasn't been taught proper trigger finger safety has she...tut tut! Though she got it right in the last shot Women and weapons go together so well...sigh

Yeah give it a go. All the info is on my YouTube channel, link is in my signature I used Zap-a-Gap supaglue with Zip-Kicker spray hardner but I also pinned the two halves of the slide together aswell for greater strength using 1mm wire.

Essentially yes, its two TM 1911a1 slides with the front slide chin/apron part mated to the another full slide. The outer barrels are sleeved over one another but cut down slightly to suit the correct length. The Bushing hasn't been altered at all but the recoil plug is a standard 1911a1 type with the reverse plug lip milled off, so it will slide through the longer slide apron and a 5.1 plug placed behind it inline. The recoil spring is a standard length 1911a1 type and so is the recoil guide rod. The trigger is a TM 5.1 with the joints cut out and a grub screw added to act as the overtravel

Thanks 'HitmanNo2'. Quiet a bit of time for the longslide....a weeks building but a whole year thinking about it Worth it in the end though She is damn accurate. A standard VSR TM barrel cut down and machined to fit. Cycles like it should even in the cold.

Been away for awhile but have been busy with these... Top: Ed Brown Massad Ayoob Signature Edition 1911 Commander with 'Bobtail' frame. Bottom: AMT Hardballer longslide. Both custom made using standard Tokyo Marui parts with no upgrades.

Nothing wrong with a 'plain jane' Besides the 1911's an icon that in any guise is just legendary.

That is a very elegent piece of kit. Im not a 'Kimber' fan but credit where credit is due their top end models are nicely styled

Now that is going to be some classy hardware Pics when finished my good man

Yep its the front part of the frame directly under the slide. I think the flush sided look is best for this 6" type. That said however I like the design you have in mind for the new dust cover, interesting and very fesable I would think. A hacksaw and needle files job me thinks

Black and OD aswell, nice Got a link?

I am sooo goin a have to get me one of those Love the Marui copies of 'Hilton Yam' sights.

I do like the KJW tactical grip (Kimber style waffle print), just wish they did it with a rounded trigger guard, still i could just sand it round. How much was it?

Thats a nice bit of kit there but I don't like the extended dust cover design, should be flush, mmm now that would look nice

Nice pics Does the barrel have the standard MEU markings on (NW1752 or something like that) or something new? Also what's the quality of the chrome work on it like? By the way, as a side note, the appaulingly designed RIS rail is based loosely on a real steel version by RRA.

OK after the 'Thunder Ranch' the next project on my list was....yes you've guessed it, another 'Les Baer'........ The 'BOSS' TM MEU frame custom engraved. TM 5.1 slide, markings filled and custom re-engraved. TM MEU 'kings' ambi-safety modified to a single. TM 1911a1 slide lock (sprayed silver). TM 4.3 hammer polished. TM MEU barrel (chamber sprayed silver and engraved), bushing (polished) and plug. TM MEU beavertail grip safety (sprayed silver). TM MEU trigger. Freedom Art fibre optic fore sight. LCT mag serrated catch. LCT flat chequered MSH. Home made 'Mahogany' wood

Machining isnt really required unless your doing some real heavy modification work. I usually only use a hacksaw, heavy metal file and needle files oh and a 'Dremel' or equivalent. Most add on after market parts should be a straight fit.

Thank you for the compliment It took a bit of work to mask off the rest of the grip and sand down/fill the markings but i think its worth it in the end, adds that bit of distinction.

If you want a reliable, robust and skirmishable donor gun, go for either the TM 5.1 or maybe, if your stuck for cash, the WE 5.1 series. Yes the WA guy's will say their guns are better but WA's pistol purchases will empty your wallet faster than your girlfriend on a shopping trip! All the previous gun platforms have an enormous range of add on parts to choose from. Manufactures like Shooters Design, Davidson Custom, Nineball, Guarder, Nova, LCT, 5KU and Anvil are some of the better ones, or if you have the cash ( and lots of it!) try Prog4. Basically set your budget and go from there, yo

Caspian Hi-capacity 1911 Marui 5.1 with standard internals. Shooter Design barrel bushing and plug. Marui MEU ABS barrel sprayed silver. Nova ambi-thumb safety, slide lock. Anvil beavertail grip safety. Guarder trigger. The slide has been filled and re-engraved. Grip has been sanded smooth and spray painted to resemble 'Faux Ivory'.

I doubt it, as its a plastic chemical bond type. The 'Milliput' filler i mentioned may work better for metal slides, as they flex less and therefore the Milliput wont crack so easily. I would coat the slide areas you are going to fill with white water based wood glue first (for filling logo markings etc), let it dry then fill with the Milliput. The wood glue should give a better anchor/bond to the filler. Or if your just filling cocking serrations, rough it up with a sandpaper like 120 grade to act as a key for the filler. Here's another shot of the Thunder ranch.....I did think about