TDS

Yo folks, been on vacation Quick question: has anyone gotten the mcmaster numbers for the various magazine O rings? (not the big square one)? Have about 15 magazines I need to de-leak...

m1. Full auto is a 3 step process. 1. the bolt blows back and locks the hammer back to position 1, if you have semi, this works 2. the bolt comes forward, triggers part #66 to reset the trigger, setting hammer to position 2, this naturally happens when you let go of the trigger or when the trigger is cycled normally via being in full auto, the part of the trigger unit that lets go of this and cycles to position 2 during full auto is probably your proble 3. if the trigger is still down, the gun fires straight from #2, if it's not, the sear is not released, boom, no full aut

Where did you get the RA-hopup kit? I haven't seen it on their website.

That's unfortunate, because the guns are pretty awesome. I was really, really needing a new inner barrel for my m4 as well =/ hopefully someone picks up where ASB failed horrible

The gun will continue to vent gas until the bolt pulls the hammer off the valve, if the bolt handle "trench" is not deep enough, it could be requiring your bolt to take much more gas to get moving, therefore draining your mags quicker. Could also be a leak, or part 66

As above, I don't think its a mounting problem since you've managed to install the older barrel and have it work, it's probably a 117 malformed problem. I'm actually a bit concerned at overall quality in the wetti guns since doing my first to-the-screw take down of my rifle to get it up to sniper spec for next year, just misc finishing problems, some nozzle bits weren't finished at all so where the part was cut threads were starting to peel off the part, half the parts are slightly misaligned (checked multiple receivers) and the normal give of the system compensates. Anyways Has anyon

I broke 2 "reinforced" ones before going to thewarstore's steel version, kind of ridicilous. you really want to go all out and get the heaviest version of that part, by the time you replace it 2-3 times you have spent more than the steel one would have cost.

magazine push-springs are too weak, upgrade them.

Well that's interesting. here's a question, which side is the floating valve springon, is it on the rear of the valve pushing the valve forward or the front of the valve pushing the valve backwards? In other words nozzle----<= spring->valve =|----Blackguiderodthing or nozzle----<= valve<-spring =|----Blackguiderodthing

Only thing i can think of is the barrel being seated wrong which leaves the bolt "locked" forward in a slightly forwards/backwards position, venting more gas into blowback than normal. Assuming your floating valve spring isnt broken or misaligned causing the floating valve to close very quickly.

Less innane garbage in informational threads please. If it doesn't have the slightest effect the other 1000+ people that view these threads it should be in PM

I havent cleaned my g36 in 6 years beyond barrel/hopup, 100,000+ rounds, playing virtually every weekend. AEG's are pretty self contained, as long as you aren't getting dirt inside the gearbox somehow or water into electrical connections they will run forever. They really don't need regular cleaning beyond "hey there's some smutz on my connectors lemme wipe that off with my fingernail real quick" and similiar.

I don't believe that part was ever ment to be /easily/ adjustable, just so that you can tune your gun to your fields specific FPS limits. If it was any more "practical " I'd be working on banning or reducing its use at my field because players can't handle easily adjustable fps, period.

Do you mean the original gas nozzles or c02 one's dont have the problem? sorry just bad wording and have a c02 nozzle in the mail.