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About UrPeaceKeeper

  • Rank
    Bring it on!!
  • Birthday 01/21/1988

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  • Airsofter since
    May of 2005
  • Toy collection
    G&G M14 Veteran - 383 fps w/ AE .25's
    CYMA Thompson - 375 fps w/ Excel .20's
    ICS M4 RIS - 360 fps w/ AE .25's
  • Most likely to say
    Long Live the M14 Brotherhood!
  • Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    Guns, Airsoft, Computer games, Girls... duh!?!
  1. UrPeaceKeeper

    KWA HK45 Initial Impressions and Real Steel Comparison

    Sounds expensive for what I plan to do, I'll have to go looking to see what all was involved in doing so!
  2. Greetings from the "not dead yet" me! I realize it has been ages since I last posted on Arnies but life changed and I was unable to airsoft with any regularity. I sold most of my guns but recently acquired something new, the KWA HK45. Why? Why would someone who hasn't been able to airsoft in so long decide to purchase another airsoft gun that he can't necessarily use? Well the reasoning is simple: Work, or training, or both. I have been given the privilege of becoming a Police Officer and our department issued side arm is the venerable HK45. While I could bore you with the details on the original gun, I think anyone with access to Google can find out plenty enough. Suffice to say, the HK45 is meant to be a sharper USP. I bought the KWA HK45 to give me something to plink around with and maintain muscle memory. Of course KWA was kind enough to make this gun available so I could purchase it for just that reason! Thanks KWA! I've been out of the game long enough to not really feel comfortable diving into the nitty gritty performance details but I will do my best to give an external overview. The box, it's generic, and gets tot he point. Who cares anyway, I just want what is inside! Step 02, open the box: The box contains: 1x KWA HK45 1x KWA HK45 magazine 1x bag of unknown quality BB's (tossing in the trash) 1x HK trigger lock tool 1x KWA hop up adjuster arm 1x Medium backstrap 1x Baggie containing the manual (in multiple languages!) and Umarex registration card Taking it out of the box the first thing you notice is the plastic used by KWA is very close in texture and feel to the real HK45. Obviously there are some differences as KWA is offering this at a fraction of the cost of the real thing. All things considered, I'm pleased how close it actually is. The stippling on the grip is smoother than the real HK45 which is more like holding onto skateboard tape than it is a plastic framed handgun. The plastic itself is shinier than the real one, but not shiny enough to look or feel fake or cheap and chintzy. Aside from the hideous orange tip (looks to be removable with a large enough hex key), the details on the KWA are pretty good. Certain things are accurately represented, such as the O-ring supported barrel. I think the Gen 1 HK45's came with a green O-ring on the barrel but mine has a black one. Not that it matters that much. The trademarks are what I'd call the typical "Umarex" affair in that they are bright, and copious. I understand that there are some legal issues with trademarks but did we really need the giant WARNING NOT A TOY on the side? Seriously who thought these were toys? The Licensed Trademark of H&K GmbH is kind of annoying as well. Some of the import stamps are missing on the left hand side and others added to the right hand side. In general, because this is a training device and not an implement of anything else, I'll overlook these "added visual features". Here is what they look like on the real one: Side by side: The keen observer will note that the KWA replicates the standard trigger unit for the HK45 while my HK45 has the "Law Enforcement Modification" (LEM) trigger on it. The LEM unit is quite nice and I have to admit, coming from the Springfield XD45 Tactical and the Beretta M92A1 to the HK45, I was a bit skeptical of the LEM trigger at first because it's technically a double action only trigger. Having put more than a few hundred rounds down range it is REALLY nice and shoots exactly like the XD45 Tactical does in pull weight but it breaks like my M92A1's trigger does which brakes like glass. One thing the LEM units do NOT have is the ability to decock the gun, nor do they have the safety. The KWA DOES and the trigger unit operates differently as a result. While it is no surprise that an airsoft gun's trigger is light in pull weight, it is a bit frustrating. The KWA still has a reasonably distinct area in which a shot will break free, but there is no solid "stop" like there is on the LEM trigger where you can pull to and then break the shot when ready. The reset on the KWA is extremely vague as well where on the real firearm it is quite loud and distinct. I'm not sure if that will "wear in" or if there is a cure for it or not, but it certainly is a bit of a "detractor" from a training standpoint. The different trigger assembly produces a significantly lighter trigger pull. This is expected in an airsoft gun but I want to add that the real HK45's double action pull with the LEM trigger unit, is extremely heavy. Heavier than the M92A1's double action pull and just as long. KWA on the left, real on the right One other feature that isn't replicated are the night sights. I'm not sure if the TruDot sights are standard on the LEM HK45's or not but it would have been nice to have them on my KWA as well. I'm aware of the cost associated with proper night sights, but an attempt to make them glow in the dark is a step in the right direction. On weight, the real HK45 is no lightweight kick boxer, it's a brute and quite heavy for a poly framed gun. The KWA is noticeably lighter and the balance is noticeably rear heavy. The real HK45 is more evenly distributed with the 10 round magazine and 1 in the chamber. This is to be expected as KWA has opted for a light weight slide, relatively soft recoil spring and a plastic barrel. Certainly not a huuuuge deal but one to point out for the hardcore enthusiasts. Back to the KWA, the build quality is pretty good. It has been a while since I have used an airsoft gun but in general things are pretty tight. The slide does not wobble, much, on the frame rails and the parts seem put together reasonably well. I'm not expecting HK quality from a $156 airsoft gun and for what I paid, I'm reasonably impressed. One interesting thing to note is that the slide from the real HK45 will go on the KWA frame but you can't get the slide catch back in due to the difference in barrel cut. The KWA slide will NOT go on a real HK45 frame. The magazines are also different in size and shape. A real HK45 mag is too long for the magazine well and the KWA magazines are too wide for the HK magazine well. Good news on that front, no chance of mixing up the parts! That said, the magazines feel heavier than the gun itself. I'm not sure how I feel about the thinner magazine plate, but it is thinner. The markings on the magazine are very basic. It has the round count indicators on it but they obviously don't function and it has the stamped interlocking metal portion that the real magazine has. It also says "MANUFACTURED IN TAIWAN" instead of "MADE IN GERMANY". Small point to overlook! I would comment on how the KWA shoots but sadly I have not shot it yet. I will try and do that tomorrow if I can. From what I can tell by the hop up unit, it should be a reasonably accurate handgun with the KWA hop up rubber being a split nub. How accurate has yet to be seen. AirsoftGI says my gun chronoed at 335 before leaving California. Since I'm not intending to use this gun for anything but training, this is sufficient. Before I recap, I do want to talk about holsters. This is something that was critical to me as the gun needed to fit in my duty holster. The goal is to develop that muscle memory further without putting the wear and tear on my real HK45 and my wallet (.45 ACP is expensive!!). The good news is that it does indeed fit in my Safariland holster however I can't get the trigger strap to latch. I managed to get it latched once but was unable to get the over the top strap to latch. I compared the profiles of the two guns and they are identical, as are the lengths and angles of the trigger guard so I'm not sure why it wont holster fully. My Safariland is still relatively new so it may loosen up some still and eventually work. My holster is a Safariland 070-91 (Safariland says it fits the USP40 and USP9) and is the issued level III holster. Alright, lets recap! Pros: +Quality polymer frame +Easier on the wallet +Minor details present (O-ring supported barrel, HK trigger lock, disassembly and backstraps, loaded chamber indicator) +Less than a real HK45 Cons: -Vague trigger unit -Lighter weight than the real thing and rearward weight bias -Fits in holster but can't be strapped in around the trigger guard -No night sights -GIANT ORANGE MUZZLE (I hate US import/Toy rules!) Neutral: ~Trades (meh) ~No LEM trigger!! Gun Prons: I'll try and get a shooting report some time tomorrow. If you have an questions, feel free to ask!
  3. UrPeaceKeeper

    Chasing Durability - G&P WOC GBBr's

    I created a video outlining both the HPA stuff and the charging handle mods a while back. Here it is for all of your video viewing pleasure http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcLPunRuaZU
  4. UrPeaceKeeper

    Chasing Durability - G&P WOC GBBr's

    Yes that is high pressure air, the magazines are drilled and tapped to accept air quick disconnect fittings. With the dual regulator set ups at 145 psi and the npas dialed in, right arround 400 w/ .20 gram bb's but it has some pretty impressive recoil!
  5. UrPeaceKeeper

    Chasing Durability - G&P WOC GBBr's

    You will have to forgive my reply if it isn't clear as I am typing this on my phone. I'm not sure I can recommend one brand of bolt carrier over another as my experience is limited to G&P carriers, an AABB carrier, two element steel carriers and my prime... so far I would not reccomend the element carriers, ever. The prime is great, but I've had to sand mine a lot to get it to function correctly in my WOC. Charging handles is hard to say. I have two real ones, a DPMS (low end) and a Noveske (high end) and physically there isn't a dang difference between the two. I think the DPMS is cheaper by a few dollars and functions identically to the Noveske.
  6. UrPeaceKeeper

    Chasing Durability - G&P WOC GBBr's

    Cursed GBBr's, they are Soooo unreliable! Of course, anyone that understands the system knows that this is a half truth. In stock form, it can be horrifyingly unreliable, frequent failure to fires, light striking, venting of magazines, spontaneous part failures and so on. As with AEG's there is this struggle between cost and performance and a choice between the thousands of parts out there to make a reliable GBBr. I hope to cover at least a few points of the most notable failures in the WA based GBBr setups. Durability Upgrades: There are TWO points in a WOC that are guaranteed to fail within a few thousand cycles. The area on the bolt carrier where the bolt catch interacts, and the charging handle. To beef up durability in these two areas is going to save headaches later. The Bolt Carrier is the heart and SOUL of any GBBr and should be quality from DAY ONE. Unfortunately the stock BC is functional at best. It's potmetal construction offers a reasonable mix of durability and weight for recoil, but it is not as durable in the bolt catch area as it should be. This area wears out after approximately a 5000 rounds using the bolt catch. That is, of course, very quick and unacceptable. The stop gap is to file back the area flat again and after a little while, it will again, wear down. The solution to this problem is a better bolt carrier, either Steel or of suitable Aluminum alloy. One thing to realize is that quality is always a requirement. RA-Tech is the only Aluminum BC that lists the material. In this case, it's 7075, which depending on the hardening is a solid aluminum grade that will last a long time. I personally prefer steel. I subscribe to the "If it's steel on the real one, I want it steel in mine" Of course steel in the real AR15 is going to be hard to achieve at airsoft prices, and with our buddies overseas making stuff, so a quality steel bolt carrier of unknown grade will have to suffice. I opted for the Prime BC for WA length receivers. Probably a bit of a mistake, as the carrier required extensive sanding to cycle cleanly in my WOC. The RA-Tech Steel would have sufficed but it is important to realize that there are MANY reports of their BC wearing out at the bolt stop area, as well as damaging their own steel bolt stop There are other options, the JDT carrier, and the Inokatsu carriers each with it's own pro's and con's. The charging handle is an interesting issue. It comes with two problems. The first is the latch is weak. After several rackings of the charging handle, the hole that the pin goes through that holds it in elongates and eventually will break. The absence of a latch will then cause the horn on the charging handle to break. This solution is incredibly and painfully easy. Buy a real one from an AR15. It requires the use of a dremel (or file). There are two tabs on the side of the carrier that need to be ground flush. The other part that needs modifying is the horn. This will need to be shaved off such that it no longer catches on the nozzle (the plastic part of the bolt carrier group). This solution fixes both problems by use of a quality part. When it comes to latches, stick to the real ones. Real Charging handles for those of us in the US, are quite cheap, cheaper than the replacement WA specifics. For those of you in other locations around the world, they may be harder to get but are worth it when you finally do. The only other thing you will need to do is to take the plastic bit from the horn of the stock charging handle, and move it to the real one. This part serves to prevent the bolt carrier from damaging the barrel extension by limiting the forward travel of the bolt and buffering it's movement. In the WA guns, this part is essential, but with an aftermarket bolt carrier, it's presence is more or less a novel thought, but better be safe than sorry! Once these two parts are out of the way, you really don't need to change much, just replace parts as they break, which is infrequently at best. The parts that broke in mine, broke in this order: Nozzle which was replaced with an RA-Tech aluminum one with the NPAS, buffer retainer which was replaced with a steel one, bearing on the hammer which was replaced with the bearing from my G&P Burst kit which did not work and then eventually replaced the entire trigger unit with the burst kit and then my stock bolt catch broke in two at the pin that it pivots on which does not effect function, just creates an annoying wobble. I have since replaced that bolt catch with another G&P one until such time that I find a suitable replacement to it that is one piece. The last one I attribute to the use of a steel bolt carrier and a heavy recoil spring which on locking back puts a ton of pressure on the bolt catch. If there is any one important thing, it's that sometimes when you replace a part, you will find that another part will wear out and so you end up chasing durability throughout the system. So far, I've gone about 15000-16000 rounds on HPA without any part failures and I'm hoping it stays that way near indefinitely.
  7. As many involved in the Gas Blow Back world know, I own a G&P M16A4 WOC. Most notably, I own a WOC that is converted to run on High Pressure Air (HPA). I have received literally hundreds of PM's, questions, etc about the conversion and while I have to say I'm flattered, I'd just like to share that there is a lot of "school of hard knocks" progress that it took to get to this point. My loss, is of course your gain. So lets look at the base gun as it stands to this day: [base] G&P M16A4 WOC [Externals] Dboys M5 RIS Dboys RIS Bipod adapter Magpul UBR Stock for WA M4 in OD 2x Magpul Rail Panels in OD ErgoGrip Vertical grip in Black PRO&T AN/PEQ 15 w/ Green Laser in Black Rockford Mount Harris Style Bipod G&P Bungee Single Point Sling ACM TA31 ECOS w/ Kill Flash JG Flip Up Rear Sight (Stolen from a sacrificed JG S-System) [internals] Prime Steel Bolt Carrier with RA-Tech Aluminum Nozzle (and tip) with NPAS (330 w/ .28's) G&P Negative Pressure Bolt Carrier Group with NPAS (Soon to have NPAS installed actually) (510 w/ .28's ) AABB Hardy Recoil Spring G&P Steel Buffer Stop G&P FN M16A4 Body with Burst engravings (Newest Generation, had the older generation which was not as nice) RA-Tech Hop Up Roober JDT 6.03 Tightbore, 509mm length DPMS Charging Handle (modified) Noveske Charging Handle w/ Badger Ordnance Big Latch (Modified and in Use) RA-Tech Burst Kit All Other Parts are stock G&P WOC Internals [Magazines] 5x WA Magazines with G&P Seal Kit w/ Magpuls and HPA Converted 2x Bomber Magazines with G&P Seal Kit w/ Magpuls and HPA Converted The direction I plan on taking my "blog" is to give tips and tricks of the WA based Gas Blow Back Rifles as based on MY experience with the platform. So stay tuned!
  8. UrPeaceKeeper

    WE M14 Gas Blowback Rifle

    With RA-Tech NPAS though... more recoil FTW Air rig isn't too heavy, but then again I'm used to hauling around a lot of gear including my G&G M14 Veteran, which weighs a lot.
  9. UrPeaceKeeper

    WE M14 Gas Blowback Rifle

    So who's going to be the first person to tap their mags for HPA and crank up the PSI? Ok
  10. UrPeaceKeeper

    WE M14 Gas Blowback Rifle

    Personally, the only fair way to get the FPS of a GBB anything is to use the weight of BB you are going to use on the field. Anything else IS cheating the chrono. As someone else pointed out, just because your gun chrono's at 400 w/ .20's doesn't mean it chronos at 1.5J with .28's. Heck most AEG's dont even follow that rule, but that is besides the point. GBB's do not follow the same principles that AEG's do for FPS readings, because our gas expands, therefore, your muzzle energy (if your limit is 1.5J) needs to be the equivilant of 1.5J with whatever BB weight you are using, not of .20's. The reason that is fair is because my own WOC chronos at 455 w/ .28's and chronoes at 455 w/ .25's and about 445 w/ .20's. The idea of using a BB Weight chart VS FPS is probably the smartest and best way to figure out acceptable FPS using certain BB weights. At anyrate, whoever asked about when the M21 was being released, it IS released, remove the fire selector and you are done. The original M21 was just an accurized, semi auto, wood stocked M14 with an ART Scope on it. The modern M21 hasn't changed much from that but uses either the M1 or M3 scopes in it's place. The USMC DMR stock is used in conjunction with USMC Semi Auto only M14's, not M21's. Sorry, side tangent Beautiful M14's guys, I can't wait to see what the first one does with an NPAS and an HPA rig
  11. UrPeaceKeeper

    WE M14 Gas Blowback Rifle

    It's not bent like that accidently. Thats how the real one is, it's to facilitate shouldering with body armor on. If you fold it out and shoulder it, it helps with the weight a little bit. I personally consider it useless in every position but prone, but that bend is there intentionally.
  12. UrPeaceKeeper

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    WETTI How about a black tube instead of a brass one? You are losing lots of sales to the G&P and WA system because of the big brass tube in the charging handle area. Find a way to permanetly make it black or something as thats seriously what caused me to not buy one. (I didnt buy the WA or G&P one yet either) Other than that, honestly, an M16 would be amazing. P-Mag... I think I need to use the restroom, thats too much win.
  13. UrPeaceKeeper

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    That would largely depend on where the force is being exerted. At least in my limited knowledge of stress concepts. If the force of the hammer is hitting primarily at the top edge of it, a straight edge there may be better for longevity because it directly transfers the energey through the large flat peice (and thus to the two screws holding it in. That explains the strange stress marks on the holes where the screws are located. Thats assuming it hits the top edge with the most force. If it hits uniformly then a rounded edge may help distribute it through the rest of the parts. My speculation on this, is that the force is more concentrated towards the top (explaining the marks on part #59 that were in Rot's pictures). As that plate on the top slides, it bends the prongs out on the part that holds the firing pin in. As the hammer continues to hit part #59, it tears at the corners (because the top plate is now pushed back, etc) of the prongs, causing them eventually to fail. My wonder is, what would happen if you put a peice of suborothane or something there, not enough to impede the hammer from completely cycling the firiing pin, but enough to dampen the blow so that peice #59 is less prone to moving? Or maybe the screws just need to be tightened down a little bit more? Any way you cut it though, a stronger peice should be made. We shouldnt be getting the folding we are seeing on that peice from just standard use.
  14. UrPeaceKeeper

    G&P GBB M4A1 family

    From my understanding, if you load a mag in and then charge the charging handle it will vent all the gas on the first shot. Something with the "firing pin's" mech going haywire and getting stuck open. So you have to pull back the bolt before inserting a fresh mag. I'd imagine this is only an issue with teh first mag loaded at a game and not something more serious that happens every reload? Could you make a video of the reciever wobble? I've shot a real AR-15, they are not terribly movement free either.
  15. UrPeaceKeeper

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    I hear ya, keep in mind that "Gas in the mags" are a recent revival in airsoft. Getting the tech back to where it was is a matter of elaborating on the successes of GBB Pistols. Most of these systems are more or less an experiment if airsoft is ready to revert back. Most of these problems are minor, with the most serious ones being a cheap fix. (In fact the most serious one I can think of is probably the firing pin issues, which is solved by a little sanding, or maybe the charging handle, get a real one ) This gun is not for everyone, if you dont think that you can handle the cost then dont buy it. Like with cars and AEG's, wait for the next gen release when this is improved upon drastically. Simple solution is to buy from Airsoft Buddy, he has the versions listed and is most likely the latest because of his relation to WE. Like I said above, this isnt a gun for the masses this is best suited for those who like to tinker and want more relasim. I dont own one yet but I'm sure with some slight mods you can make it do whatever you want. I personally am waiting for new versions to come out, or at least a body kit so I can have M16A4

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