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Probably the darned Part 117, rubber sleeve, and the steel (non CO2) nozzle. Check if the nozzle is returning fully forward during blowback? If the Nozzle isn't fully forward, then the gas can't go into the valve of the nozzle. The part 117 is too tight. Its the cause of much of my grief RE: the WE platform.

I was firing mine sideways, its not a big issue, just not upside down. In fact with the NLS gone, is why the Agm mags can last so long on one charge. On a WA mag, the NLS takes the upper portion of the mag, so effectively first 1-2 shots, you will be pushing liquid propane up the NLS tubes, until the liquid propane level reaches where the NLS duct opening. Which means effectively you only have half a mag worth of gas even though you charged a whole tank of gas. The AGM mag just keeps shooting and shooting on a single tank of gas, its amazing actually.

Mine doesn't roll out, even if you point it downwards.

EBB sold out on Mags an hr after I decided to get them. Anywhere else that sells the mags?

My goodness thats a lot of work. But yeah often what defines the rifle is the sights, else you will get nothing downrange in the right place.

If you have brightness issues, you "can" buy super bright LEDs that can replace what is on the sight. I did that to a Doctor RedDot reflex replica from China.

Well I need to test a bit more. My mag didn't leak so that was a surprise. Now where to find them new mags?

Its actually very easy. The lever that the magazine follower pushes is just too wide to push through the hole beside the Magazine lip. I first removed the magazine top, identified the problem area dremelled it a little on the left side of the area of the lever that fitted through the hole. Else you can just bore the side hole out on the magazine lip. Thats the other solution. The other issue though is that the AGM has a bolt release that it is indent locked rather than spring pressured like most other bolt catches. The spring tension of the magazine is insufficient to push the bo

Well, Here is a summary of the AGM: Good: - Solid straight barrel, CNCed hard aluminium alloy (good). - Steel tidbits, flashhider, sling swivel etc. - Negative pressure valve system on a nylon nozzle (420fps at 12*C) - Good hop up unit - Bolt catch and bolt contact areas are reinforced with steel inserts. - 12*C at 445fps down to 420fps varying FPS +-10. Neutral: - Solid Pot metal almost everything but I think cast aluminium receiver, still heavy - Slight play between upper and lower - furniture is ABS though the stock and pistol grip ABS is a lot thicker and stron

And another thing, my part 59 is broken, AB no longer stocks them. Where can I get this part?

Just a question: I am looking at a lightweight bolt for the WE because the bolt cycling is a tad slow. Its gone down to around 9*C here now, and the cycling slow. I know that there WAS a lightweight bolt at AB but it is no longer there. Is it still available?

Its 11*C here atm, just that little reluctant to use the WE without CO2, mine is the old V1 without the CO2 compatibility so that can be a bit of an issue. But yeah mine is functioning well at the moment, cold weather performance is the only downside now. At 11*C It shot at 435fps initially but plateau'ed at 395fps on a 0.2g.

Double post:

I am thinking that it shouldn't take much effort to mod the mags to work. I have had to mod my MAG and KA mags to work with my AEGs so its only to be expected.

Question is: Does it fire off a full magazine of propane? And what is the ambient temperature there? My Marui P226 never fired off a whole mag on propane. And the power was shocking, at around 280fps on propane at 17*C.

How is the balance of the gun with battery and magazines loaded. And whats the barrel made of? Its a juggle between this and a TSI Tavor.

Can you take a pic of the breakage? Damn I have spent so much on my WE

I guess when I order I am not in a rush. I have a walk in armoury at home and I can always go with my next toy in the line. I have orders from Gunnersairsoft that has been in limbo for 2.5 weeks now, it doesn't bother me too much (perhaps a little bit). I know to give people time to sort themselves out. If they are slow, then you give them a warning. If they are quick, give them praise. William and James (WETTI) have been very helpful even though they can be a little slow. I just give them time, and they will sort it out. If I had paided they don't sort it out...*cough* redwol

Strange, AB has always promptly shipped stuff. I have ordered from him 4 times now, even with bits and bobs it arrives in a week. Only down side is that William doesn't keep comms well, so when he ships he doesn't give me the tracking and by the time I start wondering if he has shipped it or not, it shows up at my door.

Yeah its really shallow but it stays. I think its lasered on cheap paint. When you take the paint off the Pot metal parts oxidise faster than your aluminium parts. The barrel and slide are aluminium, as is the slide catch. But the frame, barrel bushings are not. So long as you aren't constantly holding onto the pot metal parts the shine will still be there. You will need to get a metal polisher to get that shine on

What I would like to know is: - Accuracy (hop consistency, groupings, hooking etc) - structural issues (barrel is made of crappy materials, plastic is flimsy under pressure) - Balance - Magazine catch release spring tension. Is it prone to accidentally knocking and dropping the magazine?

Yeah its worth the money I paid for it. There were some small issues that I had to correct but its one of my favourite combat handguns. I took the paint off and polished the slide and frame. The slide is aluminium and retains the shine but the frame is pot metal so its a little dull at the moment particularly where my hand touches the metal. It fires off more rounds than the TM M1911 per charge of gas and is just as accurate, with more recoil. Its better than both the Marui and the WA SCW3 M1911 for weight, feel and gas endurance.

For me, I have so many guns I sometimes don't touch them for a long period of time. So yeah if I leave them unpressurised the mags are a write off. Perhaps a sign I need to sell some

I will quote you again. I rest my case. FYI I keep all my gas charged, partial or full. Only mags I have ever see leak are: - Hudson Jerico mags (they leak no matter whats been done to it) - uncharged marui Hicapa/DE mags (from the bottom usually) - uncharged Maruzen M11 mags (valve) - uncharged KSC G17 mags - uncharged KJW M9 COw mags - uncharged KWA M92 NBB mags - and factory fresh/uncharged WE M4 mags. So no they aren't cheap mags, keeping them charged keeps their seals, period.

Untrue. Anyone is the O-ring industry would tell you otherwise. O-rings seal better when gas is kept inside it. Once you keep the system unpressurised the O-ring loses the original shape that it takes the space and hence it will leak. If the O-ring decides to dry up and die, its because a) The wrong gas is being used with the O-ring (O-rings can be made out of various materials) wrong additives are added to the gas mixture. This is why the mags you see from factory always leak until a) you fill it up and you add silicone oil (which expands the O-rings a slightly).