MikeG

I'm surprised anyone who's seen the inside of a gearbox before is having this sort of reaction. Most of us techs know that gearboxes are a sort of rube-goldberg design and that parts will break from time to time, more frequently if the gearbox hasn't been tuned. As I like to say: in airsoft, it's not if it breaks but when it breaks. With that out of the way: I'm a huge fan of G&P's guns but I have had issues with them in the past. I blew a few teeth off of a G&P bevel gear and stripped a G&P piston in an XM177E1. I ran a 7.4V 20C 1200mAH G&P LiPo in a Sentry and within

I have this noise in my Sentry, and I'm fairly certain it's the sound of the piston and gears being stopped from returning by the anti reversal latch. G&P bevel gears have only 2 AR latch catches as opposed to the 4 or more on most other brands. I had this same noise in my G&P XM177 until I blew out the bevel gear and replaced it with a TM bevel with 4 catches. My logic is that with less catches, the piston and gears are able to spin backwards longer and harder before the AR latch actually stops them. Harder catch = louder noise, longer delay = more noticeable from the rest of the

MAG Midcaps work perfectly in these. They fall free and have no feeding problems whatsoever. Etchelion, The cylinder is in fact 'tapered' in lieu of porting. The side of the cylinder with the thinned sidewalls should be opposite the cylinder head. I don't know what it is, but I always have terrible accuracy & hop consistency with G&P ARs. That's why I went with the nuclear option of replacing the barrel and hop-up so early in the gun's life. For around $60 for the parts and a little bit of time to install, I definitely can't complain about the result.

I've been running a Sentry for the last couple months and have had a couple issues with it. Number one, with a 7.4V LiPo, the trigger contacts were arc welding together and not always coming apart when I released the trigger. Basically the gun was deciding all on its own how long it would like to fire after I released the trigger. Problem: Someone in the factory forgot to apply any sort of lube to the trigger contacts. Fix: Just a bit of silicone spray. Number two, generally poor hop performance. Fix: replaced hop bucking with Guarder enhanced. After doing a little bit of work

My 5 year old P90, now with a real Ringsight. Strangely enough, the Ringsight body is made out of plastic. The reticule is lit by either a front light collector which creates a 'ring inside a ring' pattern or by a rear collector (with built in orange tritium vial) which creates a "T" pattern. So, uh, my P90 is more radioactive than your P90? And finally as a part of the FN collection.

The shipping was about $60.

Romulus, thanks for all the info so far. I noticed that after fitting my real steel grips, the screws protrude from them a bit since the heads are fairly heavily arched. So I eagerly await the verdict on the grip screws.

I just wish I had known that a real mainspring seat would fit. Where did you guys happen to buy yours? Extra Bonus Question: Does anyone know if real steel grip screws will fit? From what I've seen, it looks like the threaded part of the screw is too large on the real ones to fit in the KJ. I'd just like to confirm this if anyone has firsthand information.

Great review. As a fellow P229 owner, I can't disagree with anything you said. Since I've owned the gun, the only problem I've had with is that I twisted the head off of one of the grip screws. When I inspected it further, I found that the screws were not made as one piece. The screw head is tacked onto the threaded shaft, so they're not terribly durable. I think I managed to cause this problem by removing and replacing the screw one too many times. Happily, I'm confident I can fix it with a dab of epoxy. Since I got my P229, I've done a few realism mods that I thought people might

Update (11-25-2007): Earlier today, I installed a Guarder Improved Hop-up Rubber & Bucking (The clear silicone version). The improvement in performance was drastic. Before, even with the hop-up fully 'on' the BBs were still dropping, but now, with the hop-up only 1/6th 'on', the BBs travel with a straight trajectory. Not bad for a $4 replacement part. Now that the hop-up is working properly, I can finally gauge the accuracy of the gun. Like any other short barreled replica, it's not extremely accurate. Firing from a crouched position, the XM177 seems to be able to make fist

The continuation! The handguards are of the early slim round style. While this makes it more difficult to fit a battery inside, it is doable. Generally, the XM177 requires a 'V shape' battery constructed with 4/5A or A size cells. Finally, we have the 'Moderator' muzzle device. The XM177 was the only gun to use a moderator of this particular design. I've got to admit, I'm a sucker for cool looking muzzle devices. It's often a tipping factor for deciding between two guns for me. Performance As mentioned earlier, the gun is built with G&P upgrade parts giving

Review - Boomarms G&P XM177-E1 History The XM177 was designed by Colt as a part of the CAR-15 program that aimed to create a carbine based on the M16. The main differences from the XM16 and M16A1 were that the XM177-E1 featured a 10" barrel, a 3 position rubber coated aluminum collapsible stock, and round handguards. The XM177-E2 was designed with an 11.5" barrel. Testing showed that with the gas port so close to the muzzle the weapon would not cycle reliably in some conditions, not to mention that firing an intermediate cartridge with such a short barrel created a blin