davedawg123 Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Could any Nova kit owners provide any tips or insight on how to remove the binding at the last 1cm of the slide returning to (and moving from) battery? The binding, which takes a bit of force to overcome, occurs (as it returns to battery) right before the chamber gets seated in the slide and continues up to battery. It's a little odd because the slide without the barrel assembly, bushing, and recoil spring/guide has no such binding and is silky smooth. Link to post Share on other sites
RacingManiac Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 which chamber/barrel are you using? The stock Nova? At any rate, most of my effort in fitting the Nova kit involves the BBU and how it sits in the slide. I find that with the Nova slide the BBU bottom portion sticks out maybe 10-20 thou into the slot for the rail, which cause it to bind. I sanded the rail and the BBU until they are smooth....I also chamfer the chamber lugs and their corresponding slide lugs with needle file.... Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted October 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Yeah, I'm using the stock Nova barrel/chamber. Can't try the stock one since I sold it. The blowback housing doesn't sit right in the Nova slide due to some interference with the rear sight. Here's a little more detail of my situation. I tried 2 different blowback housings with different mods to each. With the first housing, I simply seated it and only took material off the blowback housing rail. The rear sight interference forces the housing to sit about 1-1.5mm too tall, which I compensated for by taking that much off the rails. Without a mag inserted, the slide action (with all the internal bits installed) was perfect and smooth. With a mag inserted, the slide action would bind at the last 3-5mm of returning to battery. I sourced the problem to be due to interference between the bottom of the nozzle (which was lowered 1-1.5mm due to the improper seating) and the top of the mag. I suppose I could have simply took some material off the nozzle, but I had a second housing... With the second housing, I took material off the top of the housing where it interfered with rear sight so it could sit properly and yield a correct nozzle height. I also lightly sanded the housing rails. Now, I get no interference between the bottom of the nozzle and the top of the mag. However, I'm stuck with the situation mentioned in my original post which I did not encounter with the first housing. Link to post Share on other sites
GBB Nut Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Like RacingManiac said, check to see how well the chamber mates to the slide. In some cases the locking lugs do not line up correctly and in others the chamber may be a little too wide for the ejection port (look at the top of the chamber where it meets the rear of the ejection port). Both cases require a small amount of filing work to correct. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 GBB Nut gives soe good advice. A way to tell if its the outer barrel is to get it to bind, then push on the front of the outer barrel to see if it clicks back in place, then you know some filing is necessary. Nick Link to post Share on other sites
junior Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 The kit I worked on would bind up like yours when the grub screw for the rear sight was tightened down all the way. Apparently it was pushing down on the BBU slightly and causing some friction. When the screw was backed out was loose enough to not cause and binding, the rear sight was very loose. So I added some shims under the rear sight so when the screw tightened down enough to properly secure the rear sight, it wasn't causing any more binding. That's the only bit of fitting work I had done to the Nova kits. The kit was already when I got the gun... Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Henry, I had a similar situation as yours before when I was testing the first bbu. Basically, the screw is able to go through the top of the bbu and interfere with the nozzle. I have since loctited the screw in place. I found out what the problem was. There are two differences between the first bbu (5.1) and second bbu (MEU), one of which I didn't account for. The differences are a larger cutout in the top of the MEU bbu and an extra tab above the front left rail of the MEU bbu (that my crappy eyes didn't notice before) which was interfering with the hopup assembly. I lopped off the tab, no more binding. Link to post Share on other sites
GBB Nut Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Sounds like you were referring to this tab (shown in red). Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 That is exactly right. My Nova kit came with no such instructions. Link to post Share on other sites
GBB Nut Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Yeah I ran into the same situation the very first time I ever installed an aftermarket slide. These days cutting that tab is pretty much standard procedure whenever I do an install. Post some pics, I'd love to see how your pistol turned out. Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 A couple more pics in the gallery in my sig (I hadn't yet loctited the grub screw in place, it is too deep for its own good in the last pic). Afterwards, I ordered an Airsoft Surgeon blowback housing. I don't know why I did that. Hopefully, it will end up being a good investment. And that taping of the nozzle spring in that pic is a good idea. Wish I thought of that with my MEU housing with the extra cutout in the top. What I ended up doing was demeling, shaping, and loctiting a corresponding piece from a nickel coin onto my rear sight to fill that gap so the spring wouldn't bind up from the cutout. Link to post Share on other sites
RockDog Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Looks awesome Dave. How is that guide rod. I have a nineball one in one of mine and it just keeps dissassembling itself! I could do with 2 nice reliable ones. Nick Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted October 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Thanks Nick. I actually like the PDI rod a lot. I had one in my previous build. It's far more durable than the Nineball junk which I've heard nothing but complaints about. PDI is steel and I think Nineball is pot metal. The PDI is a 2-piece design but with a bit of PTFE tape sealing the threads, you'd never know as it won't come apart during use (and will actually require a bit of force to unscrew should you require it due to using the original recoil rod buffer). If the original recoil plug and rod can handle an upgraded KA recoil spring, I might end up selling the PDI rod to fund the AS bbu. Link to post Share on other sites
GBB Nut Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Great looking collection you've got davedawg. I just checked out your gallery - very impressive! Tomorrow I'll take pics of the Airsoft Surgeon Lightweight BBU. Like any part it's got it's pro's and con's. Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 Thanks! Could you elaborate on the AS bbu? I assume faster cycling and lesser recoil. Link to post Share on other sites
GBB Nut Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 I've installed just one AS bbu so I can only give limited performance info. That one was installed in a Guarder slide for a TM Hi-Capa 5.1. IIRC I couldn't install it in a 4.3 slide because there wasn't any hole for the screw that secured the rear sight. The AS bbu is very, very light. Felt recoil is reduced only slightly as the weight of the slide makes up the difference. The piston is a very simple design, nothing like a fancy Nineball piston head, just the o-ring. It might be difficult to install any aftermarket piston head since the AS bbu's piston and piston head is a one piece design. The outer housing on my AS bbu had the extra tab which needed to be dremeled off. The screw that was included was slightly longer than necessary but a quick visit by Dr. Dremel fixed that. Other than that everything fit together easily and without any serious issues. Essentially it's a very light weight version of a stock TM blowback unit. Link to post Share on other sites
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