Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Hello, i have the KSC USP .45 Sys7 Japan version with the ABS slide and markings. The problem i'm having with it is that the hammer does not go "down" all the way. What this causes, is that it is putting serios resistance on the slide while it's moving, grinding against it quite a bit. Not only that, but it's actualyl a tad higher, so when the slide butt meets the hammer, the hammer is actually forced down a tad to allow it to pass. So now after a while, i end up with the slide not "popping back" all the way because of friction. If i keep the hammer down just a bit more, manually, the slide... slides easily. Oiling the top of the hammer is not exactly useful, plus getting grease all over my gear couse of it. >.> And yes, i did oil the slide on all contact points. Made a small vid to prove my point: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2ym83kp&s=5 Any ideeas? Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I've had a look at my USP. It's not the system 7, but the old KSC system. My hammer does not go down all the way either, and is "forced down" to allow the slide to pass as you described, but my slide does not encounter more friction. I do have a metal slide, but I cannot think of why that would make a big difference since the rear bit of the slide that does rub against the hammer should be an internal piece and metal as well. All I can tell you is that your hammer is ok and goes down as much as it should, so the problem is probably with the slide itself. Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 The problem is that the friction sometimes simply stops the slide in place. For example i shoot my last BB, the slide pops back, but not all the way, leaving the slide midpoint. Also i've also noticed another problem that happens rarely, but i don't know why, the slide move too slowly or something, and the "chamber" gets filled with 4-5bbs. I think a stronger recoil spring/metal side might help to overcompensate with the friction pressure of the hammer but that to me just seems to be wrong. Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 LE: Noticed an intermediate stage of the hammer, no ideea if it's connected or if that's the way it should be, and made another video with the slide off to show off the internal workings: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=1427dah&s=5 Link to post Share on other sites
baias6230 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 You should try sand the hammer a bit... just to round the top of it. I had a similiar problem with my Airsoft Surgeon Hammer Set. Your pistol is stock so unless is a mechanincal problem that should do the work. Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 There is a small 'button' on the back of the slide which the hammer pushes, and sanding that much so that it dosent contact the slide will probably make it unable to use that 'button'. Link to post Share on other sites
p.a.n.i.c.s Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 i have a sys 7 usp but i havent had this problem is it not possible somthing to do with the hammer mech is damged causing this fault? just a sugestion iv never had the problem myself tho thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 yea that intermediate stage with the hammer? That is when you've chambered a round in the chamber and then decocked the weapon. The hammer sits there to indicate that the gun is chambered and decocked. The gun is still fire-able with double action. I think it's maybe something catching in yr top slide. Link to post Share on other sites
Firefly0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Give a clean to your gun, also check if your BBU is tighted nicely to your slide, also sanding the the hammer or the bottom of the BBU is also a good idea. Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Give a clean to your gun, also check if your BBU is tighted nicely to your slide, also sanding the the hammer or the bottom of the BBU is also a good idea There is quite a bit to sand down to make sure there is close to no real friction. I'm talking some 2 mm, which is quite alot. I think it's maybe something catching in yr top slide.I noticed two things catching it. One is the top of the hammer, the other i have no ideea and i tried to make another video to show it. I was keeping the hammer down to show that that was not the thing keeping it locked. http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2l9qque&s=5 Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 ok when you normally cock the weapon or fire it, does the slide return normally? if u look at the underside of the topslide, theres a screw at the back that requires a hex(allen) key to tighten. is that screw loose? Link to post Share on other sites
Firefly0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 You don't need to sand down 2mm, just to remove the paint and next use steel wool to give a smooth finish, and again check if the BBU is tighted to the slide like i and Punkypink said. Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Yes, that screw was tightly in place. I tried to squeeze it a bit more but no, the factory did a good job screwing it in. ;p Pix: Those white lines are where the hammer rubs against the the BBU. Link to post Share on other sites
Firefly0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Is the screw higher than the BBU? Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 No, it's flat leveled to the unit.. it just shows oddly in the pic. ok when you normally cock the weapon or fire it, does the slide return normally? Most of the times yes, but in situations where there isent enough inertia going around the gun, like when the last whiff of gas goes, it gets stuck midway. I was thinking of getting a tougher recoil spring to compensate for the added friction and such. Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 It looks ok to me. Heres a pic of my slide. I remember when I 1st got my USP it was sticking a bit but a good clean soon solved it. I'm truly a bit puzzled and probably can't tell u more without having an actual good look at yr USP Cosmitz. Could you take a closeup shot of your hammer itself? Actually having just seen yr last post I think theres no problem going on there. My slide gets stuck halfway when there isnt enough momentum as well. Like if you pull it back halfway and let go it doesn't return fully. Thats normal. As long as it doesn't actually affect usage when there is gas or when u've pulled the slide back completely, its not a problem. Link to post Share on other sites
Firefly0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Well i recommend what i did on my pic, it won't hurt your gun, if you don't found that enough round your hammer a bit. And you don't need so much oil in your gun Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Firefly0>That was just as much as the factory put in, i dident bother oiling any more on that part. Might try sanding a tad. ;p Punkypink> Thanks anyhow.. it may be a normal effect and i'm just overhyping it. When i genuinly have a serios problem, then i think i should start worrying. Still, if anyone else has any ideeas.. i'm all ears. Link to post Share on other sites
Firefly0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Then before you sand it, take off all that oil in the BBu and in the rails as well, next fire it without lube. Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Maybe changing to a stronger recoil spring would help. Since my slide is the metal one, I'm assuming the recoil spring's been upgraded as well. Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Yeah, i mentioned doing that a few posts up, i'm thinking stronger spring will equal more oomph to power-through the friction/whatever is there. Just hope my slide won't go pop because of all the forces going on. Abbey Predator gas in summer on an enhanced recoil spring-powered plastic ABS slide... eh. Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 might as well just upgrade to a metal slide Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmitz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 With Berget around the corner, i have to cut my "extra" airsoft expenses to a minimum, so that means that shiney awesome-black Shooters slide worth 140$ will have to wait for a while. But yes, eventually i will upgrade to a metal slide, will see what will happen with that. Link to post Share on other sites
Punkypink Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 The KSC metal slides with the white trades don't cost $140 I think. Link to post Share on other sites
Firefly0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 KSC doesn't sell system7 slides separately, at least i never see them, and SD are CNC'ed, you pay for quality... Link to post Share on other sites
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