Bladerider Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Just a quickie, should i sand the slide rails or frame rails to get them to fit properly? Was going to just polish both with some 1000 grit and keep going until i get a nice fit between them. Or should i use a small square file? There is still paint on them both so my guess is this is mostly whats stopping a nice fit? Just wanted to be sure before i do anything, thanks lads.. Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 So out of the box the frame-slide fit is not good? What kit is it? Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 All Prime kits that I have are drop in fit!! I've never heard of a Prime kit or slide not to fit properly I also have fitted a slide to my Maruzen P99 Unless you're trying to fit different brand frame-slide. George Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Yeah, it does seem odd. Out of the box, the action is like it's rolling on glass. Only when you start to put the internals in do the problems start... Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted March 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Nope positive its 100% Prime they are the only ones that made it! Its a Caspian 1911 (Japan Version) and came with frame and slide. There is marks in the finish on/in the lowers rails,so was thinking the finish is fouling the action maybe? I'd say i can get the slide about half way on and it gets pretty stiff i didn't want to force it any further. Already have all the lower parts built up, but they are Bob Chow controls so wont be staying long. Link to post Share on other sites
ThaFlash Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 WA? I had this issue before too, with mine the fit issue was at the locking lugs with the chamber, and also with how the barrel system fit. I had slight stickiness at the end of slide travel which was cleared up with some beveling. I did smooth down the anodizing finish on both slide and frame. Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted March 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 WA? I had this issue before too, with mine the fit issue was at the locking lugs with the chamber, and also with how the barrel system fit. I had slight stickiness at the end of slide travel which was cleared up with some beveling. I did smooth down the anodizing finish on both slide and frame. What did you use to remove the finish, just sandpaper?? Link to post Share on other sites
ThaFlash Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 I used 3M scotchbrite pads, I didn't really want to remove the finish, I just wanted to smooth the action. Once it was smooth, I then filled the rails with lapping compound and spend a few days cycling the action. Then I cleaned it up, went over again lightly with a pad for a clean-up, oiled it and it's good. I have a PGC kit that needed more material removal and for that I used square files. But for the prime kit, start with the scotchbrite pads and do most of your material removal on the internal parts as that's usually where it's really needed. Here's a pic. It's not mirror polished, it's just done to the point where's it's completely smooth in action. I haven't completed this gun yet due to laziness, but when I use my grips and barrel bushing from my other WA this one is a much smoother gun. Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted March 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Cheers for that flash. Just going to give it a bit of a polish inside the rails now. Figure i'll start where it has marked the finish and go from there. Easy to loose interest half way through buddy, will be worth it in the long run the kits are getting harder and harder to find. Bagged a nice kitted MARSOC this week much less hassle than building from scratch Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 I would take the parts out of the frame and then test the fit to see if it's the blowback unit causing it to jam. If not, put the frame parts back in except for the upper disconnecter. If thats fine, then put the valve lock back in and see if thats what jams it. Link to post Share on other sites
ThaFlash Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Yeah, what he said. Also, these kits are designed to fit everything in there, so if somethings not fitting, for example if the blowback chamber is causing binding. You should look at what is affecting the positioning of the blowback chamber rather than working away at the part first. Seems simple enough but there are too many people who are file happy. Back in my teching days I saw quite a few pistol kits where the owner filed away too much of the part, and once I fixed the fit issues, they now had parts that wouldn't engage properly. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 I had problems with the diconnector, at first it didn't pop up when the slide was returned to battery, I installed a spring underneath the disconnector but it was to stiff and the slide was jamming on rest position and on rearward position. It may be the same with you if you test the slide without the inernals and works good then the internals jams somewhere. My kit had a problem with the mag ... The mag didn't fit in!! So I sanded a bit and problem solved! George Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted April 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2011 Thanks for the replys lads I have the slide empty so there is nothing to foul the action. Sanded the rails a bit and it made a slight difference so i guess more sanding will hopefully sort it. I can get the slide level to the hammer but it still will not go further to cocking postion, its still stiff to move once on the lower. Action is rough as a bears a*se!! Or maybe try a bit of lube and see if that makes a difference?? But i have doubts it would make much odds. Kinda ###### me off a bit considering it was a $400 kit Is this an uncommon problem? George i have no spring in the lower other than the leaf spring (that i remember) and the disconnector works fine. Are you 110% sure there should be one in there? Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 You should only have a spring with the disconnector if your donor gun is scw1 or scw2. I imagine you're using an scw3 donor? Does it still jam with the valve lock removed? Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 You should only have a spring with the disconnector if your donor gun is scw1 or scw2. I imagine you're using an scw3 donor? Does it still jam with the valve lock removed? Build got shelved due to stupid life getting in the way Yeah mate scw3 donor and your correct no spring needed, i had been reading stuff off the web and got a tad confused if i should have a spring or not! I got the lower to function fine in the end and slide action is better but still not fitted bbu or slide inters.Plan is to try fit a RS grip safety, single side sheriff thumb safety, steel one piece outer barrel n chamber and full lenght guide rod. Probably not going to be smooth sailing parts wise. I sense impending doom! Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 You need to try to figure out in what plane the binding is occurring--horizontal (side to side) or vertical (up and down). Typically, it's in the vertical. If you can wiggle the slide slightly side to side, it's definitely in the vertical. If you think of the parts on the frame that the slide engages with as an inverted L and an inverted reversed L, then the surfaces to treat are the undersides of the horizontal part of the two L's. If you take a fraction off them (left and right), then it allows the slide to sit fractionally higher over the frame. I've used a fine, small-cross-section, triangular file, but definitely go easy, as you want to take off as little as possible that will enable smooth sliding. Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 This is what i done originally as there was witness marks in the finish on the rails. I went at the marked areas with some fine sandpaper and improved the problem somewhat. I thought about a file but would be far to easy to go overboard with it so i binned the idea. I'll probably leave it alone until the slide is built up as exta weight in it will probably make a difference to the action. As long as its free enough to cycle it should bed in on its own I've read bits of rails/slides being re-fitted how is this done as you cant add material once its worn away? Slight bending of slide to pinch the lower more tightly?? Reason i ask is i have a prime marsoc with about 1mm side to side play in the slide and slightly less up and down. Am i just being far to picky......probably.....actually yes but i like things to be good as i can possibly make em Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 1mm isn't that much really but if it is really bugging you, it sounds like you might need some Accu-Rails. It's best to PM Mobius Strip as he is the best as far as I'm concerned when it comes to WA 1911s. Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 What are Accu-Rails? No funds to throw at it i've loads of stuff on the go atm, just curious mate. Is that uberness in you pic polished or plated cos its hawt You've some whopper pistols man Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Accu-Rails are what are sometimes put on RS 1911s to fix sloppy slide/frame fit. They can also be put on airsoft 1911s. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=140841 Thanks. That particular one is a stock WA Series 70 Premium edition. It achieves that finish with plating. Link to post Share on other sites
Bladerider Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Sounds like it would be a expensive/time consuming job good to know it can be sorted if i ever get round to it. Cheers for the info See a lot of his pics about the place, pure gun porn! The 1911 threads here are off the wall, i'd kill for a steel or brass kit and stay at home licking it all day Some finish for stock i thought it was a kit! Dont see many old school wa 11's about that ain't been trashed and abused Link to post Share on other sites
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