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help find wires for this gearbox


M16andpregnant

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I'm buying a gearbox for my high ROF project. The thing is I'm extremely low on cash for such a project. My plan is to buy a cheap gearbox, tear it up and then install my upgrades. Until I buy a set of low resistance wires and a mosfet, I want to get a run for my money for the wires it comes with. Here's the gearbox http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=33548

As you can see in the picture, I need to buy a tamiya wire attachment (not a full wire set) just to get it to work. I do have a spare wire attachment piece that would connect to it that has male connectors but the gearbox provides male connectors and I need a wire attachment with a female connector. Can anybody find the attachment piece I need? Or better yet, find me an inexpensive v2 gearbox wired to the front. Don't tell me I should buy a quality gearbox or something like that, I know this gearbox is ######.

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I think this project is a little out of your reach.

 

However!

You want DEANS connectors, I'm guessing that you're in the Us, in which case any hardware store should have them.

For Hi-RoF you'll want a double sector gear and chips, you'll want a good quality 11.1v LiPo, I would also recommend moseying over to

 

airsoft mechanics forum

 

and reading the information there.

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I already have a full teeth swiss cheesed piston, double o-ringed piston head, modify high speed gears, 8mm bushings, reinforced tappet plate, and a reinforced spring guide from my old ak project lying around. I have my low resistance wire w/ mosfet in my primary. I would continue with a new ak project but I hate ak's im switching to m4's so im going from v3 gearboxes to v2. I do all of my upgrades and repairs. I am just looking for a decent starting spot. I would switch to dean, its what i prefer but I'm not trained to weld. I don't want to take classes or buy a welding torch so I'm just going to stick to tamiya connectors for now. I'll switch to deans when the tamiya connectors melt together.

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Sorry but... weld?!

I know you Americans (again assuming you're over there) call it something different but welding is a totally different thing.

 

It's called soldering - all you need is a soldering iron (about £10 off ebay will do you fine) and you definitely don't need to go to classes to learn. At most you'd need to watch a couple of youtube vids and take a couple of practice runs using some old wire (and joining two wire ends is probably about as hard as it get's for airsoft gun wiring).

You want solder that contains lead - as much as it's become dis-used in industry due to "health risks", as long as you do it in a well ventilated area (see: opening a window) you're fine and it's much easier to use. A flux pen helps things and a handy arms tool (basically some crocodile clips on a stand) is very helpful - but I used a couple of tools to weigh down wires for years so neither of those things are essential.

Deans are definitely superior to Tamiya - an alternative to deans are XT60's which are easier to solder to and easier to unplug (larger size).

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TBH if you're going to strip out the internals, you'd be better off getting an empty shell. A lot cheaper - best bet would be to find one on a forum second hand sales (although you'd have to try other forums as you need 100 posts to access the classifieds here) - I bet you could get one with just the trigger mech in it which is about all you'd be keeping from the sounds of it.

 

The one thing to remember with the version 2 is to radius the corners of the cylinder window - a mate of mine had the front end of his shear off recently in a high-speed set up (and that was only about 22-24 rps - and I say only because another mate has a 40+ rps stubby M4, doesn't really skirmish it, more to prove he can, but it's very prone to breakage as the internals are under a lot of stress).

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I'd reccommend making your own wiring loom, homedepot or your local R/C shop should have most of the connectors you need, anything else order from any airsoft store. I'd use 16AWG silly-cone wire, was it's very flexible and easier to squeeze through awkward gaps, others use stiffer wire that you can bend to shape and have it stay there while you wiggle things in.

 

I'd without a doubt solder in deans connectors.

 

Also I'd strongly recommend getting a shell if you've all the internals, or perhaps, looking for a second hand gearbox, will be cheaper.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have you checked : http://www.evike.com/index.php?cPath=24_417&sort=3a&page=2

 

If you haven't bought the gearbox yet, i say spend the extra few dollars and get something that is "lipo ready" like

 

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_68_518&products_id=33343

 

It will save you a few dollars due to the fact it comes with 9mm bearings

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