Tokyo Marui Hi Capa hammer / disconnector issues.

[famidesu]

Hello,

 

Now I've run into two problems with my Hi Capas. The first one is on my 4.3, the other on the 5.1.

I cannot understand why these things occur. There shouldn't be any problems with the leaf spring,

but one can never know before some third party eyes have a look at it.

 

Since the video was posted I had another (steel) disconnector fitted. I still cannot understand what's

wrong. The 5.1 is not more than a month old or something? And the 4.3 has a new frame from 9ball.

 

 

Any input will be greatly appreciated.

[kenxin]

Kind of hard to tell , but I believe the problem on the 4.3 (gold hammer I assume?) comes from the hammer strut being missaligned to the left and thus not applying proper pressure.

 

The problem on the other gun seems to be the notch on the BBU of the slide being worn or something that causes the same thing, since the hammer is not depressed fully. When you cock it it sits higher than where it stays when you pull it down manually.

 

is the golden hammer 5ku?

[famidesu]

Kind of hard to tell , but I believe the problem on the 4.3 (gold hammer I assume?) comes from the hammer strut being missaligned to the left and thus not applying proper pressure.

 

The problem on the other gun seems to be the notch on the BBU of the slide being worn or something that causes the same thing, since the hammer is not depressed fully. When you cock it it sits higher than where it stays when you pull it down manually.

 

is the golden hammer 5ku?

Hmm...very interesting thoughts. It may well be a faulty hammer strut or something on the 4.3,

however it's manufactured by Gunsmith Bros and or distributed by Alpha-Airsoft. I have currently

opened up a discussion about this with them but there hasn't been any answers as of yet.

 

On the 5.1 however it seems very unlikely that it would be the BBU unit because it's brand new,

also from the same manufacturer and or distributor as above. 

 

Is there any other angles I should try filming from or something to make it easier to see?

[kenxin]

Hm, gunsmith bros is an excellent company, and I do not believe in two lemons that close together.

 

However, the fact that some noise comes from the mainspring housing on the golden trigger one means something in there is where it shouldn't be. if at all possible, try a different mainspring housing AND hammer stut. If I recall correctly some Nova hammer struts caused problems with the trigger and sear.

Also, the change in the frame might have messed up some tolerances, again try with the default hammer strut/hammer.

 

On the 5.1, I don't think it's the bbu either, but the problem is definitely that the hammer is not being pushed down enough. Is the slide and frame stock?

[famidesu]

Yes that's the understanding I have gotten also.

The click comes from (I believe) from the base of the hammer strut sliding to

the back edge of the hammer spring plug or w/e I should call it.

 

I have tried an aftermarket hammer spring housing, also tried an aftermarket

hammer spring and then swapped to the original. No bueno. I will try with the

original 5.1 hammer assembly, swap it over to the 4.3.

 

The slide and BBU on the 5.1 is Gunsmith Bros. The frame is OEM.

[mimesis]

The disconnector not popping back up fully is a classic problem in hi-capas (and I think 1911s too).

 

The first thing to do is to try bending the prong of the spring that pushes on it, so that the spring exerts more pressure on the bottom/back of the disconnector.

 

There are also parts of the disconnector that can be filed (a little!) to make its operation smoother, and therefore less likely to catch.  There used to be pictures on the internet (Meety Peety) but the last time I looked they had been taken down.

 

As for the other problem, it looks to me as if the sear may not be engaging properly with the detents on the hammer.  That may be a question of tolerances.  I'd try swopping out the parts, one by one, for OEM parts, and seeing which combinations work (or work better).

[Lasairiona]

I had the same problem with one of my 1911's, the middle leaf of the leafspring had to much or not enough pressure on it, I bent it a little and problem was solved. :-)

[famidesu]

The disconnector not popping back up fully is a classic problem in hi-capas (and I think 1911s too).

 

The first thing to do is to try bending the prong of the spring that pushes on it, so that the spring exerts more pressure on the bottom/back of the disconnector.

 

There are also parts of the disconnector that can be filed (a little!) to make its operation smoother, and therefore less likely to catch.  There used to be pictures on the internet (Meety Peety) but the last time I looked they had been taken down.

 

As for the other problem, it looks to me as if the sear may not be engaging properly with the detents on the hammer.  That may be a question of tolerances.  I'd try swopping out the parts, one by one, for OEM parts, and seeing which combinations work (or work better).

 

 

Excellent. I love these kinds of replies, which I haven't gotten on any other forum I have tried! 

Now then, I have 2 original leaf springs and one aftermarket in stainless. Even though I popped

in the brand new untouched one the problem was still the same. I'll try to search for those images

you mentioned about filing the disconnector. Although, I have already filed on it since it was impossible

to use otherwise (5ku quality).

 

I tried to swap out two parts. First I took out the sear from the 4.3 and put it onto the 5.1 and vise versa.

Then I proceeded to take the original hammer assembly and put it on the 4.3. The whole setup works 

just as it should be. NO problems what so ever. 

 

So I tried out the gold hammer on the 5.1 after bending the prong as suggested. Yes, it worked somewhat.

I can now see that the valve knocker isn't resetting at all when I'm simulating the hammer slapping back

and forth. The knocker goes back a little but never all the way in. Mmm...the intrigue thickens.

 

EDIT: I'll see if I can grab some footage of these steps tomorrow and put it up on youtube.

 

I had the same problem with one of my 1911's, the middle leaf of the leafspring had to much or not enough pressure on it, I bent it a little and problem was solved. :-)

 

I have tried this solution also, without any positive results. I wish it were that easy.

[mimesis]

Here's a guy with a similar problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By-35Inty7Y

 

In his case it appears that the underside of the BBU is not pushing the hammer far enough down during the racking of the slide.

 

Basically, the disconnector sticks because: (a) there isn't enough pressure from the spring pushing on it to push it up; ( because it's not moving smoothly in the slot that it rides in (rare); or © because the small horizontal part that projects out from it is grinding against the parts that it interfaces with.

 

Sometimes during builds I've had to do quite a bit of adjusting (spring), filing and lubing to get it to work smoothly.

[kenxin]

Excellent. I love these kinds of replies, which I haven't gotten on any other forum I have tried! 

Now then, I have 2 original leaf springs and one aftermarket in stainless. Even though I popped

in the brand new untouched one the problem was still the same. I'll try to search for those images

you mentioned about filing the disconnector. Although, I have already filed on it since it was impossible

to use otherwise (5ku quality).

 

I tried to swap out two parts. First I took out the sear from the 4.3 and put it onto the 5.1 and vise versa.

Then I proceeded to take the original hammer assembly and put it on the 4.3. The whole setup works 

just as it should be. NO problems what so ever. 

 

So I tried out the gold hammer on the 5.1 after bending the prong as suggested. Yes, it worked somewhat.

I can now see that the valve knocker isn't resetting at all when I'm simulating the hammer slapping back

and forth. The knocker goes back a little but never all the way in. Mmm...the intrigue thickens.

 

EDIT: I'll see if I can grab some footage of these steps tomorrow and put it up on youtube.

 

 

I have tried this solution also, without any positive results. I wish it were that easy.

As I thought it wasn't the prongs.... it's fairly unusual to have a problem with the middle prong.

 

I still believe it's a problem with the hammer not going all the way down. The flat hammer shouldn't have too much trouble but it can happen somewhat.

Take the side plate of the frame and check for stickyness or other reasons as to the malfunction.

 

Also make a mental note of the sear, all gunsmith bros hammers should come with a sear, are you using that one?  in either case check with the other one with the side plate off and make a mental note on how down the hammer has to be for the sear to engage the hammer fully on both, since this will determine if the depth of the hammer is the issue here.

 

As a closing thought, the valve knocker shouldn't affect the hammer not locking back. It MIGHT affect it's return to battery but not locking back.

 

Kind of hard to explain , I'll try again tomorrow when I'm less sleepy.

[mimesis]

 

 

I still believe it's a problem with the hammer not going all the way down.

 

If you have put on an after-market hammer, as I believe you have, then the profile presented by the new hammer can be different to the OEM one.  Consequently, when you rack the slide, and the bottom of the BBU passes over the hammer, it may not press the hammer as far down as with the OEM one.

 

So question: what happens when you do what the guy does in the video clip?  Is there any difference in operation between cocking the hammer with your thumb vs. racking the slide over the hammer?

[kenxin]

If you have put on an after-market hammer, as I believe you have, then the profile presented by the new hammer can be different to the OEM one.  Consequently, when you rack the slide, and the bottom of the BBU passes over the hammer, it may not press the hammer as far down as with the OEM one.

 

So question: what happens when you do what the guy does in the video clip?  Is there any difference in operation between cocking the hammer with your thumb vs. racking the slide over the hammer?

As I already said in the first response to this post, there is a visible difference in hammer depth on racking vs thumb down on the video of the original poster. Why ask me though? 

[famidesu]

As I thought it wasn't the prongs.... it's fairly unusual to have a problem with the middle prong.

 

I still believe it's a problem with the hammer not going all the way down. The flat hammer shouldn't have too much trouble but it can happen somewhat.

Take the side plate of the frame and check for stickyness or other reasons as to the malfunction.

 

Also make a mental note of the sear, all gunsmith bros hammers should come with a sear, are you using that one?  in either case check with the other one with the side plate off and make a mental note on how down the hammer has to be for the sear to engage the hammer fully on both, since this will determine if the depth of the hammer is the issue here.

 

As a closing thought, the valve knocker shouldn't affect the hammer not locking back. It MIGHT affect it's return to battery but not locking back.

 

Kind of hard to explain , I'll try again tomorrow when I'm less sleepy.

 

I did get the sear that belongs with the hammer, however...the pin which is supposed to go with it wasn't included.

This particular seller said they are supplied with the purchase of a middle frame. So sadly I cannot test it. I'll be looking

for any stickyness now. Oh yes, is there any certain brand of lube / silicone oil you would recommend for GBB's ?

 

 

If you have put on an after-market hammer, as I believe you have, then the profile presented by the new hammer can be different to the OEM one.  Consequently, when you rack the slide, and the bottom of the BBU passes over the hammer, it may not press the hammer as far down as with the OEM one.

 

So question: what happens when you do what the guy does in the video clip?  Is there any difference in operation between cocking the hammer with your thumb vs. racking the slide over the hammer?

 

 

Here's a guy with a similar problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By-35Inty7Y

 

In his case it appears that the underside of the BBU is not pushing the hammer far enough down during the racking of the slide.

 

Basically, the disconnector sticks because: (a) there isn't enough pressure from the spring pushing on it to push it up; ( because it's not moving smoothly in the slot that it rides in (rare); or © because the small horizontal part that projects out from it is grinding against the parts that it interfaces with.

 

Sometimes during builds I've had to do quite a bit of adjusting (spring), filing and lubing to get it to work smoothly.

 

Yes, I have seen exactly that clip and it's more or less exactly what is happening.

If I cock the hammer manually I can push the trigger and have the correct response.

But if I'd rack the slide back, then the hammer would not go all the way back in which

I have to gently push the hammer for the disconnector to go up. (on the 5.1)

[famidesu]

So if it is the hammer strut, isn't it possible to just add some extra meat on top of the hammer spring plug, or something to make it a bit higher?

I haven't had time to check on it, but I will do that today. Also before I break another perfectly good OEM hammer, is it possible to disassemble it?

[kenxin]

Ofcourse it is possible to disassemble, pretty much like any other hammer for the hi-capa.

just push the pin out. but be gentle about it.

[famidesu]

Problem is nearly solved. It seems like the problem was with the gold hammer strut. It was short.

Now the hammer goes almost all the way back. But just not enough for me to be able to put the

gun in safe mode with the thumb safety. The 5.1 works just fine now!

[famidesu]

So I guess you could say even good companies mess up sometimes?

I haven't heard back from A-Airsoft regarding this matter.

 

[mimesis]

If you need to increase the tension on the hammer spring, you can drop one bb down the hole in the mainspring housing before you insert the spring and then the little metal pad on top of the spring. (Similar technique to increasing spring tension in magazines.)

[kenxin]

It's not about spring tension, since the point were the prong stops won't change by increasing tension.  The problem is the point at which the strut presses against the middle leaf.

 

In their defence it might be a lemon, or it might be that the nineball frame messed up the tolerances a bit.

 

The safety issue MIGHT just be lack of lube. With extensive use and lack of lube the sear might be a little sticky and not go all the way back.

[famidesu]

What kenxin said! I'm checking the lube as soon as I have ordered. Any good brand you would recommend?

However, I did one more thing before going crazy. I swapped the 9Ball grip to a normal stock grip, and everything

works great! There's some sort of bump somewhere inside the grooves of the grip that has to be smoothed out

before it can work. (I think.)