harborne blue Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 With apologies for being a dumb a€€ in advance... my revolver should n hold 12+ rounds but I can only get six in, one per chamber. What's the magic trick to get more in? Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Rotate the cylinder and look in the chambers . You should be able to see there's a follower that's stationary beyond the chambers that is the inrurnal feed for the extra rnds which feeds into the chambers as it turns. Link to post Share on other sites
hotelkilo Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 or to put it another way, you are only loading the outer 'cylinder' and not the internal fixed magazine this youtube vid should help, 2:50 in if u want to skip to the part thats relevant to loading Link to post Share on other sites
harborne blue Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Cheers guys. Very helpful. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Enjoy your tanaka bud, what you got? Link to post Share on other sites
harborne blue Posted November 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2014 Enjoy your tanaka bud, what you got? SAA Jupiter finish 5.5" - blooming lovely piece of kit! Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Uh, SAAs don't have that internal magazine that other models have I'm afraid. It's really just the six. The older non detachable cylinder held more bbs using the ejector rod assembly as a magazine. Here's a cutaway of HWS's New Model Army which uses the internals of Tanaka's SAA. Link to post Share on other sites
warrenusmaximus Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 My tanaka 357 has become erratic. I got her second hand some time ago and can't find anything about maintenance, spares or fixes. Anyone help? S&w .357 combat. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Tanaka spares are hard to come by. I tend to buy them new and run them into the ground, my last one lasted 5 odd years . Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Exactly what's wrong with it? O-rings? Worn parts or down right broken? You can keep a Tanaka running indefinitely with the proper care and eventually rebuilding worn parts instead of replacing them. My .500 S&W is still Woking perfectly well and was purchased some time 2006 and isn't exactly a display piece either. Link to post Share on other sites
warrenusmaximus Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Inconsistent fps, I've yet to fiddle around inside and would like a diagram in case things go awry upon dismantling. All my experience is with paintball markers. Link to post Share on other sites
warrenusmaximus Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 This one's for an M29, but Smiths disassemble similarly and all PEGASUS internals are built just about the same. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/reviews/m629/44magnum/manual/m629_manual4.jpg From the sound of it you may need to replace the valve o-ring with a new one. It it's a pre-CASSIOPEIA it should be a -003 size, Viton or Buna-N in 70 durometer will do. To get to that part: -undo screw above trigger guard -whole cylinder and crane comes off forwards -unscrew ejector rod (may have threadlock -separate cylinder from crane -undo 3 small screw at the back of the cylinder -back of cylinder comes off and the outer cylinder can be separated from the inner cylinder -(make sure inner cylinder is empty of gas) undo large screw in front of inner cylinder where the ejects rod screws into -carefully remove back of inner cylinder from inner cylinder body -with the back removed you now have access to change the valve o-ring Link to post Share on other sites
warrenusmaximus Posted December 10, 2014 Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 Thankyou, you are a diamond. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Is that all ,its when it doesnt cycle properly that you should start to worry .You should get on fine with that . Could even drill out the restrictor if it has one while you have it open. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 To tell if it's restricted or not, the valve hole should be around 4mm in diameter for non restricted. They went to a rubber insert then a brass insert and finally cast the hole smaller entirely to choke gas output on restricted models. Link to post Share on other sites
harborne blue Posted December 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Is it possible to mod the ejector rod / assembly on my SAA to hold additional BBs? Bit miffed as it's a lovely gun but was advertised as holding 18 BBs. Six means it's only good for the odd WW2 or milsim game now. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Up to the shooter. I go up against AEGs with my single actions and those use cartridges. To make the ejector rod housing hold bbs you need to shorten the actual ejector rod then flip the spring in front pushing the ejector backwards. You can fit up to 12 or so bbs this way which is about as much as older non detachable cylinder models can hold. Link to post Share on other sites
hotelkilo Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 This one's for an M29, but Smiths disassemble similarly and all PEGASUS internals are built just about the same. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/reviews/m629/44magnum/manual/m629_manual4.jpg From the sound of it you may need to replace the valve o-ring with a new one. It it's a pre-CASSIOPEIA it should be a -003 size, Viton or Buna-N in 70 durometer will do. To get to that part: -undo screw above trigger guard -whole cylinder and crane comes off forwards -unscrew ejector rod (may have threadlock -separate cylinder from crane -undo 3 small screw at the back of the cylinder -back of cylinder comes off and the outer cylinder can be separated from the inner cylinder -(make sure inner cylinder is empty of gas) undo large screw in front of inner cylinder where the ejects rod screws into -carefully remove back of inner cylinder from inner cylinder body -with the back removed you now have access to change the valve o-ring thanks for posting that and the other advice about tanaka revolver systems did this to my m36 last night and just using the drill freehand opened up the exhaust port to 4mm, swapped out the valves o-ring for a slightly larger one. seems to hold gas and works great so i guess i didnt fk it up no chrono here so i'll have to wait until i can definately say its improved but it certainly seems to be shooting with a lot more of a crack Link to post Share on other sites
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