heroshark Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Yes thats right RC. As I only really make one offs I tend to sculpt the details on after rather than developing a detailed mold that will only be used once and also use twice the amount of materials using negative molding process too. I also find I can work out more of the excess resin working with a positive mold resulting in a lighter mask. This video is a good example of this process. The layup is 6 layers including the nose reinforcement, the resulting mask is only around 2mm thick at the most and weighs a little over 300g afair. Infact as with the one in this video a lot of my masks have no details added at all and a left with the woven texture of the fabric. This is a throw back of old style hockey mask building including my whole technique tbh. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted April 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 The basic cut was done to the lower, then the upper part of the mask is layed up over the top to ensure they fit together well. It also marks out the line of the upper lip. I've missed out pics of the compleatly un-cut upper section but they don't add anything to the info so it's no bother. The upper part was layed up out of twill weave glass once again . But this time the initial layer was 360g and 4 sucessive layers of the 160g ,there was also an extra renforcement layer of 360g in the fore head and 4 very small renforcement layers of 160g at the tip of the nose. Laying the cloth over the nose and into the eye is very hard, no sooner do you get it down in on place it comes up again somewhere else. I ended up laying some cling film over and working it down but this has left me with the imperssions of the fold lines .So now I've got a sanding job. For this I do an initial sand dry it off ,paint it then sand again. The paint helps me find the bits that need sanding. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted April 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 After some thorough sanding I've had to add some more renforcement where the highest part of the jaw sits on either cheek and a final (fingers crossed)full layer of the 160g cloth. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 When I come back to the UK I'll be saving up for one of these. Will I get charged extra for having a massive face/head? Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Cool, no way man materials are cheap it's the time that costs . Up dates incoming. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 So after a bit more sanding I keyed the areas where I'm adding detail . Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted April 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 The next step was to break out the milliput. I can't really tell you how to sculpt it's just something I've always done. Once set I painted and sanded again to make sure it was all nice and smooth. Link to post Share on other sites
sir naggedalot Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 What size are the holes in the mesh? I'm looking at making some mesh inserts for a pair of googles. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 4mm, my personal favourite. Some get squeamish but it's down to my preference. Even after all these years I still have 20/20 vision and I've had bbs shatter through it ,take from that what you will. Link to post Share on other sites
sir naggedalot Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 4mm. Thought it looked big. I've had fragments make it past a pair of mesh glasses I used and it put the wind up me a bit! Trying to find the best trade off between gauge of wire and size of holes. I prefer a thicker wire which allows for a larger hole. Where are you sourcing your mesh if you don't mind me asking? Link to post Share on other sites
paranoiddroid Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 For miliput sculpting tips look at model wargaming forums and guides. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted April 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Can supply some 3mm if you like that's what's in my regular gear, unless you want meters of the stuff I don't think you'd want my supplier. So I painted him . He may not stay like this I might add some bits. 4 greens 3 tans 1 khaki 2 browns 1 grey in the sprays. Some crackle varnish ,and 3 water base paints green brown tan to hi lite the cracks .Pattern was made using masking tape. Next bit was hanging the jaw. This is simply done using thin elastic super glued in place. Starting with attaching the bits to the lower jaw then hooking it up to the upper. I then fit the hair net. This also works as the strap and is epoxied or super glued in place and held using the mold plug Last bit is tie the hair in the net, which is pretty straight forward. Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted May 1, 2015 Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 I really like how you've evolved the entire process and design. This is very much something you've wholly come up with yourself. Well done. Quick question, how well does the Milliput hold up against BB hits? I'd imagine the resin reinforced fiberglass has a bit more flex than the milliput. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted May 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2015 Cheers bud. I guess I'll find out this weekend . The first green man was made with epoxy putty which was a lot cruder and harder to sculpt which has held up well. I think as the putty is laid so thin an supported by the fibergass is what saves it. I did accidentally throw it on a concrete floor an crack the putty on one side leading down from the cheek where it's most flexible. Fortunately I just ran some super glue in the crack and the damage was completely und noticeable. Link to post Share on other sites
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