Terram Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 If I could get any advice from those more technically knowledgeable, I would appreciate it. Here's teh short and skinny of it... About six or seven months ago I purchased a CA M16A4 from and had metal bushings and an M120 spring installed. It's been used once a month at Ord games, usually firing about 1500 rounds or so each day of play. I removed the fuse after numerous problems with the connections not staying together. Month before last, I started having problems with what I assumed was a dying battery...the motor started to slow, firing somewhat tempermentally towards the end of the day. Last month, it stopped altogether after the first hour and a half of play. A quick charge of the battery brought it back into working order, but it failed again before the end of the next game. m I used a new battery, freshly charged by a smartcharger, and got no response from the rifle whatsoever. Someone at the game was kind enough to help me out, and took the plate off the pistol grip and adjusted the motor connections, and it worked fine...until about halfway through the next game. I inspected the connections myself and found that the positive connector has carbon all over it, and it looks like (at least compared to the much cleaner negative connection) the insulation had been melted away somewhat. It was suggested that I take a piece of sandpaper to the connection and clean it up, but I'm worried that the apparent damage to the insulation is indicative of a bigger problem. That's about it. Oh yeah, I'm running it off a 9.6v 3600mAh nimh bettery. Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites
evilliboba Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 It sounds as though you have been over powering you motor by bypassing the fuse. You need to replace the fuse and if it is giving you connection problems solder it if needed. Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Otherwise, with a 9.6v, its possible that its too much current for the stock wiring, you may need to buy systema wires. So without a fuse breaking your gun can help it Link to post Share on other sites
R22Master Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 It sounds like that by removing your fuse, you have shunted the electrical stress in the gun's system directly to the motor. When a fuse blows, it is an indication of a problem in the system. Removing the fuse does not remove the problem, it just removes the gun's way of telling you there is a problem. As such, other components are dangerously overloaded and start to "burn out". See my response in this thread for more info... http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...showtopic=18532 Basically, it sounds like there is undue stress within the system. Chances are the gearbox is poorly shimmed or lubricated (as you have already said it is upgraded). If you are technically competent to take the gearbox apart yourself, then check that the gears mover freely when not under load. If they aren't then you need to open, clean, relubricate and reshimm your gearbox. If you aren't competent to do this then take it to a RECOMMENDED professional (I have seen serious botch jobs by those who CALL themselves professionals). Either way, you're probably going to have to buy a new motor now. Makes one realise how valuable the 25 cent fuse is when it saves one's $80 motor Link to post Share on other sites
Terram Posted July 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Wow, that was fast...thanks guys. Anyway, the problem was never with blowing the fuse. The problem was simply that I got irritated and impatient after the second time I had to open the stock and adjust the connections to the fuse to keep them in contact that I just bypassed the fuse. Hindsight...20/20...bleh... Something else, though. The motor turns when seperated from the system, but when the baseplate of the pistol is replaced, it has all the usual problems. Optimistically, the damaged insulation is allowing arcing onto something on the plate, which is drawing off the power...realistically, sounds like a trip to the airsoft doctor is in order to see if I need a new motor. Lesson learned. Thanks for the reference, R22 Link to post Share on other sites
R22Master Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 You're welcome I doubt it's arching though. Sounds like either a knackered motor or the motor's mounting is wound up too tight. Have you tried loosening the central mini-allen key grub screw in the centre of the grip a quarter turn - see if that improves things? If it does, mounting is the problem. If it doesn't, the motor is throwing an exceptionally girly tantrum Good luck getting it sorted and post back if you need further help. Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Thing is that most of the countries in the world that allows *forum prohibited* upgrades would remove the fuse during the upgrade process. As mentioned by others, the fuse blowing is an indication that something is wrong with the internals. And again as some are mentioned by others, the causes of the problem will be: - Bad shimming on gears causing unnecessary friction between the gears putting stresses on the motor. - Screwing the motor adjustment plate in too far - Chipped gear tooth jamming up gear - Worn and jammed up piston - Loose bits jamming gears/piston - dislocated piston head - worn pinion - short circuiting in the electricals often caused by water - O-ring in piston packed too tightly - bushings mistfitting causing gear mismesh lock ups - gear axle + bushing not aligned causing unwillingness to turn - gear axle bent causing unwillingness to turn Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 You should get a Systema W/FET just beacuse it is important to have a fuse on your gun, i have seen a shorted batt melt the inside of a stock and its not pretty and the stock was usless along with the battery Link to post Share on other sites
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