mnmc10

overhop can be fixed by replacing the cylindrical rubber thing that pushes the hop rubber. it overhops cause that part is a tad big in diameter.

roller on the hammer might be missing

that's usually cause of loose connection, pull the spring out again so itll be longer. or you can add folded aluminum foil in between the batteries. that way its more compressed inside the compartment. my eotech turns off cause of recoil i then used 1s lipo for small rc helis and used the adapter that came with it. if the rc batt adapter can handle heli crashes then the recoil from a gbbr is a piece of cake.

it looks great as it is but it would stand out more if you fill the engravings with white crayon.

can you guys try to replace the cylindrical rubber above the hop rubber into a smaller one? the stock one might be too big causing it to push the hop rubber even in off position.

"I almost sure that all WE gbbrs have this curse." on the old ball bearing type hop yes. but not with the marui type hop rubber.... i have a gut feeling that the round thing inside the hop assembly was cut a tad too long thus jamming in the slot. it looks like a big oring that they cut to size by hand. cause on my pdw that part was not cut squared. see if you can replace it with an insulation from a copper wire or if it fits you can try if the one used in AEGs will work.

i use the same type of bb loader minus the nozzle on that pic. i also use my pointer finger and thumb to pinch the mag lip while im loading it with bbs. pinch the lips to cover the entry and exit path of the mag lip.

my pdw open bolt is still kicking *albartroth*! no mag leaks whatsoever, bolt lock always working range and accuracy is okay. sad that some people had crappy WE rifles and wasnt able to enjoy it. my pdw will be with me for a long time! unless WE makes an open bolt kit for my m4 .

if you think all of the orings on the mag valves are in working order. then another possible source of leak is the metal square insert hiding below the feed lip and rubber seal.

http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=766 that is a two piece part, the line in the middle is a possible point of leak. on my nozzle its loose already so i placed some teflon tape in it.

just discovered that when i put plumbers tape in between the loading nozzle assembly rof is increased and blowback is noticeably stronger. i also have no excess fumes of gas coming out of the ejection port anymore. ive been experimenting with float valves alot and that caused the loading nozzle assembly to loosen up a bit. so adding plumbers tape in between, sealed it back and minimized spilled gas that goes for the blowback action. ill see if i can put an oring there similar design as an air seal nozzle for aegs. silicon sealant might work too. but if you havent disassembled the loadin

i suggest you buy a stock part66 then sand the edges of that part and the valve striker. my guess is its catching each other and has too much friction thats why it keeps on breaking. thanks for the correction snoop

remove screws inside the grip inside the receiver behind the trigger mech and the screw on the left selector. pry off the triangular pin holder then remove one pin. the one with no rounded head. push the hammer down while pulling the auto sear forward then slide out the selector.

my pdw is clean and well lubed it also fires flawlessly in semi. i can also do double triple taps without any hiccups. but when in auto thats where the problem begins. one thing i noticed different is now with very little force i can switch the selector to safe even when its not cocked. a few of my friends borrowed my pdw and one of them might have forced the selector to safe. UPDATE: turns out my trigger mech is gunked up and that caused it to fire erratically in full auto. without disassembling the trigger group i sprayed huge amounts of brake cleaner in it. that removed oil and s

got a small problem with my pdw open bolt. when in semi it fires well and has enough blowback to lock the bolt back when empty. but when i switch it to full auto it doesnt cycle well, the first shot will have slow blowback then followed by a strong one. sometimes it stops halfway and sometimes the bolt cant cock the hammer so i have to rack the charging handle again. when i flip it back to semi it fires great again. cooldown is not an issue it just refuse to cycle well on full auto. is it a problem with the trigger mechanism? if so what specific part do you guys think is wrong? t

the body wobble is tolerable, ive held rs m4s with the same amount of wobble. philippine army has real old rifles. on we m4 magazines you can remove a part below the spring so you can squeeze in 6-8 more bbs. you can do that too with the m14 magazines i dont know about the pdw though and besides with its smaller reservoir i dont think it has enough pressure to fire 36 rounds.

i used to have a WE scar and it is indeed more sturdier and solid than the pdw. i managed to remove the very small wobble of the stock just by tightening the silver screws on the hinge.

i dont have a vid but i use 134a and it cycles well. the only difference is that on gg it has more recoil.

how come my pdw's range is only around 130ish feet at 300 .25's? its around 33deg c here.well it goes farther but at 130feet i can still hit a tree trunk. anything beyond that im not sure cause as ive said its already inside my neighbors lawn.

i also modified my rocket valve but to increase fps on 134a. i just nipped 2 of the four pillars to increase gas flow. added about 20fps!

"Whats wrong with it being a GBB pistol dressed up as a rifle, if it outperforms GBB rifles?" hey i got nothing against tk/kj! i only answered as to why people doesnt like it cause its not realistic enough. i think its because of the weak recoil, compare it to other m4 based gbbrs and the tk's recoil is the weakest. "Part of what you fail to realize is that although these things are "unrealistic" they make the platform what it is, and its amazing out of the box." fail to realize? ill say it again cause obviously you havent read my whole post. "i still think that the kj/tk m4

maybe cause a tk is a pistol dressed up as an m4. starting from the flash hider to the butt stock, the outer barrel has another outer inner barrel. the hop dial is visible then the bolt is haf plastic and half zinc. then the rubber band and finally the recoil tube has another brass recoil tube inside.the magazine also uses a pistol mag valve. so to me its basically gbb pistol dressed in an m4 housing. aside from that and the weak recoil well more like rattling/vibrating movement, i still think that the kj/tk m4 is the most reliable m4 gbbr out there.

and in my experience those kind of excess mold lines are enough to cause bbs flying all over the place. i suggest to put in a tested hop rubber like the stock rubber of a TM pistol or a vsr, thats what i did in my pdw.... not that i needed better accuracy but since i have a tm rubber spare why not put it in.

well i have the room to test its max range but i cannot get an actual measurement cause the very end of the firing range is my neighbors garden. im sure he will be baffled to see me going in his garden with a measuring stick. lol btw i retested the kwa mp7 against my pdw and the mp7 outshoots the pdw by 10 feet. the previous day the pdw was shooting farther. i also used the mp7 as my base cause out of all the gbbrs out there the mp7 has the best range. my mp7 shoots at 350fps while my pdw shoots at 320fps. if i can match the fps of the mp7 the pdw might outrange the pdw. "well yeah,

my open bolt/ open breech pdw shoots a good 20 feet farther than a kwa/ksc mp7 using same gas and same bb weight. ive shot kj/tk, we, wa, gnp, jg, agm, and kwa/ksc. and so far the pdw shoots the farthest.