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intinerious

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Everything posted by intinerious

  1. If you don't like the clamp knob getting in the way, you can get an offset mount (Element makes LaRue and IWC offset mounts) that will fit the m600/m300 series and mount the offest mount on the side rails to get the light closer to the center line of the gun along with removing the knob near the sights which would seem to be an eyesore
  2. Well there you have it; perhaps the MIAD/MOEs don't need modification at all The grip IS slimmer on the BCM, especially around the back tang area, so that's probably why I needed to mod mine to make it work.
  3. Mod the backstrap to fit the SCAR I think the dimensions are pretty similar to the real steel counterparts and as such, since loads of peeps have put a MIAD/MOE on their real steel SCARs you might be able to find a real steel forum detailing the modifications needed for the MIAD to fit the SCAR receiver
  4. It's a real steel BCM Gunfighter grip I had to file a bit of material away from the back end of the receiver so that the grip will sit flush on the receiver. The grip itself was tough to push into the grip slot on the receiver but it's no big deal, don't have to file the slot thinner on the receiver or widen the slot on the gunfighter grip. As for why I modded the receiver and not the grip, it's because it's much easier for me to get the receiver in Hong Kong than getting another gunfighter grip overseas. If I didn't have to modify the grip I can retain it's resale value; which I wo
  5. http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/king-arms-tactical-qd-rear-sight.html Exact same one Element used to make one, but apparently it's discontinued. I actually don't like running the LaRue BUIS any more and fancy the KAC 600m flip up instead. As much as the LaRue promo pics with the exact kind of optics setup in my pic above, having a flip up BUIS and flipping it down and out of the way really makes a difference if you're looking to acquire your targets faster...I don't think it makes much of a difference when my targets are 20-30m away but I'm planning on running that gun for CQB, so it's arou
  6. THREAD REVIVAL! Oh yeah, the BCM feels like sex on my hands
  7. Sorry, don't have a set of calipers I can't measure the bore diameter. Perhaps if I get one in the future I'll measure the 18 PX4s I have access to.
  8. intinerious

    DMRs

    Or both a P* and AEG shooting at 1J with the same hop setup and hop applied, with the volume balanced....whether an AEG reaching 4.2J is not the issue here...
  9. intinerious

    DMRs

    Your analogy with the car is wrong. You should be comparing something like a driver with sufficient knowledge on how to DRIVE a car as opposed to a driver without a license and no knowledge on how to drive a car. You're getting the wrong message as to why a few members here are frankly scared of your ignorance and your ownership of a P*. It's because for normal AEGs, if you're completely ignorant of how to modify your airsoft rifle you'll never be able to significantly up the energy output without cracking open the gearbox. So, there's a limit to how much your ignorance can be considere
  10. intinerious

    DMRs

    If you measure your bullet speed (and therefore kinetic energy if you factor in the bullet mass) after it exits the barrel (so....how you measure ALL bullets fired from guns) there's no other force acting on the bullet except for gravity and air resistance from it's flight. Soo if there's no hop up applied (therefore the bb does not have spin applied to it) there should be no difference in it's flight (THEORETICALLY) as long as the mass of the bullet and the muzzle energy measured is the same. HOWEVER, given that we have hop ups that imparts spin on the bb bullet; the above statement may
  11. I think the tube with the holes is meant to be a heatshield on the KAC suppressor? Anyone can let me know if my guess is right? XD The tube on mine is secured by 2 screw. Didn't wobble when I got it (perhaps it's because of shipping that screwed yours up?) locally in Hong Kong and it was solid out of the packaging, but I added locktite to the small screw regardless. The PTS AAC....eh, it's got it's own problems if you read one of the threads here on Arnies. I'm not a fan of the Blackout flash-hider ringing all the time either with the PTS suppressor I got the KAC one only because
  12. Was there no warping of the can when you ran the blowtorch through it? It turned out pretty damn great XD btw emp3ror86 what's wrong with the G&P KAC can? I got one (but I guess I should've bought the cheaper Element one considering how well kojak's turned out) and I don't have a problem with it. The locking mech is kinda stupid in that it doesn't allow you to pull out the locking bars fully but overall the construction's fine IMO.
  13. Btw I just remembered that I heard from a source that 5KU, AIP and some other brand (sorry, don't remember, though I think some of you can guess...just think of the lower end brands that do CNC stuff?) all source from the same factory. Now, QC's a different story as there are differences between stuff like AIP and 5KU obviously, but since I know about this I might as well share it
  14. With a short dot it doesn't look bad IMO Btw; what magnification setting to do normally use for ranges at 100, 200 and 300 feet in a game may I ask? I'm planning to run a 1.75-6x scope (VisionKing, I sold my short dot lookalike one already; the 1.25-5x) on my SPR build and I'm hoping it can reach out to ~328ft with an ER-Hop at 400fps. I'm thinking even at my max magnification at 6x it should be enough for aiming at stuff out to 300ft? What's your take on it?
  15. Ohh right the rail covers work XD I think that's because of the way it's designed. It's not slide onto the rails, rather clipped on; hence if the rail's slightly thicker the plastic have some give to fit onto the rails. The handstops on the other hand...I doubt they'll fit. The handstop rail part that mates with the RIS rails is PERFECT when combining the replica I reviewed with a G&P KAC rail. I'm sure if the rail was any thicker I'd need to bust out a file and remove material on the handstop to get it to fit And lucky you, being able to get real LaRue stuff XD
  16. Yup, the AFG will hold better resale value but honestly you're still losing money at the end of the day if you went with the AFG (like I did) and end up disliking it Too bad it's as expensive as the AFG over where you are though, the rail cover + handstop set I mean. It's HKD 76 in Hong Kong and a PTS AFG is HKD 2xx, with the AFG2 being slightly more expensive. Really? They were quite tight on my KAC M4 rails though O_o. Of course, you can file away material from those handstops too.
  17. Thanks LOL first post actually regarding the product I reviewed HAHAH XD Anyway, I find using the LaRue handstop MUCH better on both the SCAR and the M4 only because it's even more low profile and I like to wrap my thumb to the top of the 12 oclock rail. Plus, they act as pretty good rail covers too (the rail covers are actually quite grippy believe it or not; the middle of the rail cover with the texture really help in preventing my hands from slipping) and are cheaper than AFGs Never got the whole fascination with AFGs either...I struggle to believe that a significant proportion of
  18. Eh, I'd be careful and use the better NOVA part XD Mind I ask how you reblued the plug? Also, I think NOVA parts are basically the reject pile from Anvil. Not to say they aren't good, but obviously QC is lower, so it lends to the theory that my friend told me where the NOVA/Anvil factory caters to the demands on Japanese customers as Anvil seems to be their 'front' so to speak
  19. How'd you convert the recoil-plug to the smooth front face!? I want to do that with a NOVA one too for my Kimber SIS build, mind sharing details?
  20. Anvil and NOVA are the same. The company or factory we know internationally as NOVA actually cater to the demands of Japanese customers as told to me by a retailer friend. They do their products in batches from the JAPANESE consumer demands and as such while we might view that they restock stuff randomly they don't. Anvil is just the Japanese brand for NOVA; but they are the same parts from what I understand.
  21. Well, that and their pics are ###### XD But they have very nice front line staff manning their retail store
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