swannie_2006 Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Hi all, I have a stock TM 1911A1. I like it. A lot. However for the occasinal CQB (well.. not that occasinal anyways) I'd like to have a tactical rail on it so I can mount a tac light onto the gun. Any suggestions how I can do that without drilling a lot of holes into plastic or spending 3 weeks wages for a metal Kimber frame? Or should I just simply buy a WE 1911 Tactical ? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
TunerGuy Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 This is a needle in a haystack suggestion, but I do recall seeing a 1" ring mount that extended from one of the grip panels and sat suspended forward of the mag. I'd draw you a picture if only I had a way to upload it. If you can find that mount (it's RS, not AS), then you're set. I'd have to imagine that they are incredibly rare, however. Frankly, I do not see how else you could mount a rail onto a 1911 frame without drilling holes... would two holes constitute "a lot"? They make two holes rails... hmm... whatever you do, do not get the WE 1911. You'd be better off holding the taclight in your supporting hand. Link to post Share on other sites
otherrandomhero Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 whatever you do, do not get the WE 1911. You'd be better off holding the taclight in your supporting hand. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What are you talking about? WE 1911s are awesome guns! Out of the box, they outperform the TM. Reliability is obviously not as high, but it will definitely suit your needs. The full metal is a bonus, too. Link to post Share on other sites
twin_cam Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 You can get a slim-line light rail from Dawson Precision and still be able to holster it in most holsters with the rail in place. All it takes is drilling 2 holes in the dust cover. Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 It's recommended for you to "crown" those holes from the top, so the slide can actually slide on without getting stuck. I've done above mentioned operation on a WA SW1911, though it was with a Wilson Combat 20mm rail. Link to post Share on other sites
TunerGuy Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Out of the box, they outperform the TM. Reliability is obviously not as high<{POST_SNAPBACK}> That is a paradox, sir... swannie, I would follow twin_cam and r.ocelot's advice. Have your rail and your TM reliability, too. Link to post Share on other sites
Insanejoe Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 That is a paradox, sir... swannie, I would follow twin_cam and r.ocelot's advice. Have your rail and your TM reliability, too. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The fact it shoots better out of the box but wont last as long without problems isn't a paradox....... Link to post Share on other sites
otherrandomhero Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 That is a paradox, sir... swannie, I would follow twin_cam and r.ocelot's advice. Have your rail and your TM reliability, too. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No, it isn't, as the post above me pointed out. Several reliable sources (who have experience with both) have said it outperforms the TM out of the box. This is very similar to JG guns. They perform better out of the box, but will not last as long. Don't try to argue, as you have nothing to fall back on to say WE is worse than TM out of the box as far as performance goes. Case closed. Link to post Share on other sites
TunerGuy Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 I digress; am I the only one who equates "performance" and "reliability" as one in the same? Perhaps. And I have *extensive* experience with both TM and WEs. Have you seen my customs? My clients? Saying that I "have nothing to fall back on" is both unwise and untrue. BUT, this thread isn't about me. It is about Swannie, and his efforts to track down a rail for his TM 1911. Have you contributed to his thread in this context? No. So if you have something to say to me about WEs or Hi Capas or my experience, feel free to PM me and keep this man's thread clear. Might I set the example of staying on topic by posting this for Swannie: http://www.10-8performance.com/id7.html Swannie, here's a pic of a Dawson rail, to give you a better idea of what twin_cam is talking about. Good luck on your project! Link to post Share on other sites
swannie_2006 Posted July 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Hey Tuner, Thanks for putting the thread back to its original track. Thanks for the link, I found that one previously but ditched the idea because it involved drilling. And why to "destroy" my precious gun if not necessary? I think I misformed my question at the beginning. Let me rephrase it: - do you guys think it is a good idea using a semi permament trigger mount like this: http://www.cobraairsoft.com/popup_image.php?pID=928 ? I find this one the least intrusive. If so where could I source one ? Cobraairsoft is out of stock. - Is here anyone with some serious airsoft pistol engineering skills to help me with drilling those holes should I decide to go ahead with that plan? I admit I only have 2 tools in my drawer and none of them are a mounted drill. Oh, and I am located in London, so any help from HK or continental EU or rest of the world is appreciated however not viable. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 Not on an ABS frame buddy. I'm not saying that the trigger guard will crack, but it will bend over time if you mount something worthwhile on that rail. Link to post Share on other sites
swannie_2006 Posted July 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 Hey R.ocelot, Well, then this project will be shelved until I get a proper metal frame. Might as well buy a new gun with rail installed. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Wingman Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 There is one other solution and I've done it twice and it came out looking good. Find a small piece of good plastic rail and neatly cut it into a length that would go from the trigger guard to the end of the pistols dust cover (bottom of the frame). Thake a piece of semi coarse emery cloth or sandpaper and lay it across the dust cover (abrasive side out!). Take the plastic rail piece and then move it back and forth (front to back, not side to side) across the sandpaper. After awhile, the bottom of the rail piece will match the shape of the dust cover almost perfectly. You can then use Lock-tite and glue the rail piece to the frame. On one of the pistols I then took two small flat head self- threading screws and screwed it tow the frame. I removed any of the screw that protruded through the dust cover and sanded it smooth. I can now put my M3 light on my 1911. I did this two years ago and it still has'nt come loose. People who have looked it over commented that it looked like it came that way. It may sound complicated but it's really easy. Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Which brand of 1911 did you put it on? ? KJW? Western Arms? Maruzen? Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.