Electrical / Box Mag Question

[m4a1 556]

I would like to set up my box mag to wind whenever I pull the trigger and also not leach and power from my battery (11.1v 1600mah lipo). Please let me know if the following would work:

 

Install a mosfet (#1) in the M249 - Already done

Install a mosfet (#2) in the box mag

Replace the power supply on the box mag with a 9v battery

Run the mosfet (#2) gate to the positive wire that runs from the lipo to the motor

 

Would this work? Are there better ways to do this? I build my own mosfets for all my teams' guns so I already have all the parts I need and can build them fairly quickly.

[Crocodilo]

I want do the same with my MAG boxmag. If someone has a tutorial, please let us know

[m4a1 556]

Crude drawing of what I'm picturing:

 

[bandziorno]

I've got cheap and easy solution.

 

Use car relay. For example something like this : http://www.designnotes.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=960&Category_Code=re

There is a drawing how it looks and works.

 

When no current flows between pin 85 and 86, pins 30 and 87a are shorted. When current flows between pin 85 and 86, pins 30 and 87 are shorted.

 

Connect one wire from battery ( if I remember "-") to for example pin 85, and one wire from trigger switch to pin 86. Now rewire box mag, and connect it to pin 30 and 87 (instead of pressure switch). Now when You pull trigger box mag will wind up. If You want You can rewire box mag so it will wind up from pressure switch when You don't pull trigger (to prewind box after reloading or on the start of the game) and auto wind when trigger is pulled.

 

I think that You figure it out without electrical drawing.

 

I putted my relay under barrel, and I made wires to the box mag in tho pieces connected together with jack plug ( like earphones and mp3 player). I modified all of my boxmags like this and it worked like a charm.

[appslapp]

I hade a more direct way

 

solder + and - cabel onto the motor in the magasine...solder a deans to the cabels

 

Solder - (black) cabel where you want on the electrical system in your GB

 

solder + (red) after the electric trigger where you want it..I prefer at the motor

 

solder and connect with deans

 

just press the trigger and the boxmag will run...works like a charm, and you can keep the 9v battery and the manual boxmag trigger if you would need the use it.

 

We have this setup on 4 of ours supportguns and all works... with 11.1 lipos, have never brokend a boxmag yet. and I have used this system since 2004

[BigEd]

Most box mags do not like high voltage above 10 volts, so the following diagram uses a 9volt battery. This setup includes a primer switch to prime the gun with bb's.

 

 

 

If you have a gun that runs a 8.4v or 9.6v you can run the box mag off the power of the guns battery. This setup also includes a primer switch to prime the gun with bb's.

 

 

The diode (zenner diode $2.00 for 4 pack) prevents the little 9v battery from operating the gun. A diode is a check valve for electricity, allowing the current to flow in one direction, not the opposite.

 

 

Quick Edit: Box mags can be very picky when it comes to voltage and motor types. Most servo driven box mags can handle higher voltage above 10 volts. The ones I have had the most problems converting are the "sprint" motor style. The higher voltage has killed the tiny high rpm motors in several different box mags.

 

///ed///

[Krispy101]

BigEd - Surely, the first circuit - When you flick the switch "on" to prime the gun with BB's, the circuit will simply remain closed and constantly wind as apposed to only winding when the trigger is pulled, because the switch needs to be closed anyway for the trigger pull to activate the motor according to that circuit.

 

I personally would have it like this: (The same as yours but without anything wired to the primary throw) how difficult is it dry-firing the gun for a second or two when you first plug the battery in anyway?

 

[BigEd]

It's not bad to dry fire it at all. But most fields have the "mags out" policy, so having the box mag disconnected may be manditory, it really depends on the field. So unplugging the mag may be necessary, which means more dry firing in the AO.

 

Having a primer switch depends on the type of box mag. There are two types: Direct drive, and a Winding Hicap.

The Hicap style need to be wound up until you hear the "clicking". I prefer the hicap style, they can feed better with higher ROF guns, whereas some direct drive cannot keep up.

 

I use a momentary switch and when you let off the switch, the priming stops. I have built several box mags this way for customers.

 

///ed///

[Krispy101]

Apologies then Ed, I have just noticed what I hadn't before!

 

(Ignore my diagram if you do make one)

[m4a1 556]

I just ended up wiring it directly into the current of the battery and motor. I designed it so I can directly hook up a battery to the magazine to wind up some BB's before I hook the mag up to the gun so there's no dry-firing. It works great so far.

[LordOfTheFinns]

I tried wiring my MAG nutsack to wind when the gun is fired, using the SPDT relay as per BigEd's diagram. However, something seems to have gone wrong. The pressure switch works fine, but the relay doesn't seem to be working for some reason. All I hear is a slight click from inside the relay, but no current seems to pass through from 87 to 30. Am I doing something wrong or is the relay simply broken? I tried reversing the polarity of the current going through the coil, thinking there might be a diode or something in there, didn't help. I'm really not familiar with electronics, so it's probably just some mistake I made.