Jump to content

Can someone please critique my planned set up?


AG1212

Recommended Posts

AEG: A&K SR-25

 

Gearbox is the 7mm modified Ver.2:

 

509mm G&G 6.03 (note: I plan to swap between this and a 215~mm)

G&P Hop Chamber with Flat Hop Up

Guarder SP85 (desired FPS=320~)

SHS 15 Tooth Piston

Standard Piston Head with Spacer

Deep Fire Full Cylinder

Action Bore-Up Cylinder Head

SHS 8MM Bearing Bushings (hopefully can be made to fit, 7mms are out of stock)

 

Battery is a 7.4v 20c Lipo.

 

Things that will remain standard for now:

 

Standard Wiring and Fuse

Standard JG or A&K motor (depends which is faster)

A&K Spur and Beval gears and JG Sector (don't have the means to modify the A&K )

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

What do you think of the setup thus far? this will cost me 100e so I just want to make sure its just right smile.gif

 

Thanks once again!

Link to post
Share on other sites

i don't get it

why do you upgrade your internals and downgrade the spring ?

i don't think that you will get benefit from a bore up at that spring

 

if you want to upgrade everything i would go with a guarder full tune up kit (a 120 kit and just buy a new spring)

 

where are you getting your batery from (may i suggest hobby king?)

you could go for a 11.1 volt

 

 

off topic

are the ak sr25 still being sold? where could i get one ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
why do you upgrade your internals and downgrade the spring ?

i don't think that you will get benefit from a bore up at that spring

 

Lives in Ireland, they have the same 1J limit as Japan as far as i know.

 

However at 320fps you would not really need to do much to the stock internals seeing as they would be pulling a much heavier spring normally.

 

'FireKnife'

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lives in Ireland, they have the same 1J limit as Japan as far as i know.

 

However at 320fps you would not really need to do much to the stock internals seeing as they would be pulling a much heavier spring normally.

 

'FireKnife'

i get the downgrading of the spring, its the upgrading of the internals that makes me wonder

the gun is designed to shoot 430 so it doesn't require new parts if you want 320 fps

Link to post
Share on other sites

i get the downgrading of the spring, its the upgrading of the internals that makes me wonder

the gun is designed to shoot 430 so it doesn't require new parts if you want 320 fps

 

The piston is worn out and the compression was ######.

 

I chose the bore up cylinder head because it's the only decently priced one that is in stock, and it has a double o-ring or whatever it's called. The piston needs replacing so I might as well get a good one that will last 10s of thousands of rounds. There aren't any good 7mm bearing available, so 8mm will have to do, I want bearings because I want as quick a trigger response as possible without an insane full auto ROF.

 

 

I mean these upgrades don't seem to extreme to me, if they are better suited for a heavier spring that just means that It will last almost my whole airsoft career.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I chose the bore up cylinder head because it's the only decently priced one that is in stock, and it has a double o-ring or whatever it's called. The piston needs replacing so I might as well get a good one

 

you could replace orings and maybe ad some teflon tape that should fix your compresion

i have no experience with shs but guarder makes great pistons

an 11.1 volt will give an increased trigger response

Link to post
Share on other sites

you could replace orings and maybe ad some teflon tape that should fix your compresion

i have no experience with shs but guarder makes great pistons

an 11.1 volt will give an increased trigger response

 

SHS, from my research, is far, far better in terms of GB parts, not sure about motors.

 

I am a bit apprehensive about using a 11.1v batt, plus I won't be using a mosfet for a while so that's completely out of the question. Besides, I already have a 7.4v battery so I might as well see If I am happy with that, and like I said I do not want too high a ROF.

 

 

Earlier you asked if the A&K SR-25 is still available: I got mine several years ago, and it was a lemon.

 

If you have the cash rather go for either the G&G SR-25 or an ARES one. The G&G is a DMR out of the box, It will probably end up costing the same as a fully tuned A&K and preform nearly as well.

 

That said, I wouldn't dare to try and modify the G&G too much, the A&K is a good project gun if you can find a second hand one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Earlier you asked if the A&K SR-25 is still available: I got mine several years ago, and it was a lemon.

 

If you have the cash rather go for either the G&G SR-25 or an ARES one. The G&G is a DMR out of the box, It will probably end up costing the same as a fully tuned A&K and preform nearly as well.

im guessing you mean g&p not g&g

for the price difference i rather have a a&k and the install the parts of my choise

and i don't like the ares (there are some differences between a&k and ares)

thanx anyway ill just wait until someone sells one use

Link to post
Share on other sites

SHS makes all great parts, the Motors are also very good, but they are kind of random, While you may get an SHS high speed and an SHS high torque, You could very well get the same results from either motor.

 

I also agree that a bore up cylinder is a bad idea, get a regular full cylinder. You will need lots of new parts if you get a bore up cylinder, and it's hardly worth it. Because A&K SR-25s have long gearboxes, they have more air than most other rifles on the field.

 

I also highly suggest you stick with 7mm bushings/bearings. Modifying your gearbox to fit 8mm isn't going to happen with out drilling out the holes, and even then it is very dangerous if you don't have it exactly centered. You will be stripping gears, or they will bind up and not even move. I highly suggest sticking with 7mm bushings/bearings.

 

And great choice on the Flat Hop wink.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

im guessing you mean g&p not g&g

for the price difference i rather have a a&k and the install the parts of my choise

and i don't like the ares (there are some differences between a&k and ares)

thanx anyway ill just wait until someone sells one use

 

Nope I meant G&G, It's the nicest out of the box from what I can gather, but lacks trades. The G&P has trades but they are printed not engraved, the ARES is based off the m110 which is prettier IMO.

 

But anyway, no problem. Hey if my project doesn't work out you can buy it tongue.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites
I believe bore up kits are for high fps set ups?

it more like for long barrel guns

but to use it to its full effect you need a stronger spring so you will end up with more fps

in this set up it won't do him any good but if its the cheapest then i don't see why not

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bore up cylinders increase your cylinder volume by about 4%, which turns out to be about 20-30 mm of a barrel I believe, roughly, I never finished the math for a bore up cylinder. But they difference they make is hardly worth anything.

 

Besides, getting a bore up cylinder means you need larger o-rings around your piston and cylinder head, and many possible leaks without the correct parts. Imo, bore up kits are never useful in any situation. If you want more air, then get a gun that has an extended cylinder, such as a PSG-1, G&P, CA, or A&K SR-25, an ARMY L85, or a modified G&G L85, that I know of, these are the only airsoft guns with extended cylinders.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bore up cylinders increase your cylinder volume by about 4%, which turns out to be about 20-30 mm of a barrel I believe, roughly, I never finished the math for a bore up cylinder. But they difference they make is hardly worth anything.

 

Besides, getting a bore up cylinder means you need larger o-rings around your piston and cylinder head, and many possible leaks without the correct parts. Imo, bore up kits are never useful in any situation. If you want more air, then get a gun that has an extended cylinder, such as a PSG-1, G&P, CA, or A&K SR-25, an ARMY L85, or a modified G&G L85, that I know of, these are the only airsoft guns with extended cylinders.

 

The cylinder I bought is not bore up AFAIK, just the head, and besides you can just stretch the O-ring.

 

 

But I just realised that the SR25 does indeed have an extended cylinder, oh well I guess I have an extra cylinder rolleyes.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't get a bore up kit to help with long barrels, that would be silly, you get a bore up kit to increase airflow.

 

 

A bore up cylinder, bore up cylinder head and bore up piston head are all differently sized to the normal set, you cannot mix and match bore up and non bore up parts like this.

 

You should be buying the bore up kit as a whole kit, not individual bits, the kits normally include a nozzle as well. Some bore up nozzles are, again, different to the standard nozzles.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.