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Recommendation for bullet connectors


uscmCorps

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Most of the AR15 style AEGs I've been getting recently have been front wired into the handguard terminating in a male mini tamiya connector. I'm personally more of a Deans connector myself, but the more pressing problem is that, since it's front wired, for me to separate the upper from the lower I'd either have to disassemble the delta nut and barrel assembly, or remove the connector and reattach it later. That, to me, is idiotic and inefficient. What I'd like to do instead is install bullet connectors and have a deans to bullet adapter that will go in the handguard. That way I can get the bullet connectors through the thin gap in the upper receiver each time I want to break the gun down. My question is, which connector and what size I would need?

 

I was looking at these 2.3mm Gold Connectors.

 

My VFC KAC PDW from Ratech had bullet connectors on it that worked great. Also my VFC SR15s had low profile connectors in the rear too. Both seem like they'd be good. Any thoughts?

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Try get some with the plastic sheath on the 'crimp' end and similar on the female 'pin' or 'bullet' to cover the two pins when connected together. I'm sure you've seen them before in any auto shop, the plastic sheaths are usually red, blue or yellow.

 

This way you wont need to d*ck around with any insulation tape and keep everything nice and tidy

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The tough part is finding a connector that is small, narrow and thin enough to pass through the hole at the front of the upper receiver between the barrel and delta ring nut. Most of the connectors at automotive shops tend to be thick and bulky. The RATech and VFC bullet connectors worked well as they're skinny, and only have shrink wrap around them to keep them insulated.

 

Another option I have is leaving the small tamiyas on there as is and buying a Tamiya Plug Wire Remover ... but I don't know if those can be used repeatedly on the same wire set.

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Personally I have always used 4mm bullets in my guns and with these Voltages and currents I wouldn't go less than 3.5mm. Actually, the 3.5mm, due to their size, feel less robust than the 4mm. They feel less able to take repeated plugging, while 4mm are much smoother and, in my experience have never lost their springiness/grip.

 

What I would suggest, and this is what I did when I had my wires going forward, was simply make the wires slightly longer so that when I had to get at the gearbox I wouldn't also have to remove the barrel. I would simply feed the wires back into the receiver to allow the top to separate from the lower. Therefore you would need the exposed wires, from barrel nut to plugs, to be about the length of the grip/RAS to allow for the removal of the upper.

Any loop of wire is easily hidden in the bottom of the grip/RAS.

 

Indeed, when I was running 16awg (approx 3mm diam) there was just about enough room for the two wires to pass through the rectagular hole but definately not with 3.5mm or 4mm plugs and heat shrink, even if I attempted one at a time.

 

One last point. The reason I use bullets over Deans is that they provide better electrical conductivity and they are far more compact. Also, ditch the whole notion of using Tamiya/Kyosho type plugs as they are the worst connectors ever.

Really, if you have considered re-using the Tamiya plug you might as well just fit bullet connectors or Deans since you'll run into the same problem and have to do the extra wire trick described above as none of these plugs will fit throught the wire channel.

You might also have a problem fitting a chunky, square Deans in the tight confines of a rounded RAS for example. This is where the bullets also play their part when it comes to form and fit.

 

Tom.

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The tough part is finding a connector that is small, narrow and thin enough to pass through the hole at the front of the upper receiver between the barrel and delta ring nut. Most of the connectors at automotive shops tend to be thick and bulky. The RATech and VFC bullet connectors worked well as they're skinny, and only have shrink wrap around them to keep them insulated.

 

Another option I have is leaving the small tamiyas on there as is and buying a Tamiya Plug Wire Remover ... but I don't know if those can be used repeatedly on the same wire set.

 

 

What diameter hole/gap are you going through?

 

Go onto ebay and search 'bullet connector' you'll get every size and config possible, thousands of them!!

 

PIN TYPE http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-9mm-YELLOW-PIN-BULLETS-TERMINALS-CONNECTORS-50-PACK-/290373901090?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item439ba21b22#ht_2080wt_952

 

BULLET http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-MALE-25-FEMALE-BULLET-CRIMP-CONNECTOR-TERMINAL-50-/250829638802?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item3a669c8c92#ht_1116wt_1139

 

BANANA http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-gold-plated-bullet-banana-Corally-style-connector-set-4-pieces-heatshrink-/270885170941?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f1203aefd#ht_1352wt_1185

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SteveoLS,

That's a good idea to allow complete separation of the upper/barrel from the lower. Would introduce an extra break in the wiring, i.e. a small resistance increase, but in this circumstance it would be negligable.

 

Bladerider,

He's talking about the small rectagular hole or channel beneath the outer barrel that allows the power wires to pass from the receiver, via the barrel nut/Delta ring, and out.

 

I would also imagine he is talking about high quality banana/bullet connectors of which, with the exception of the 4mm Corallys, are not much better than Tamiya plugs. Also, none of those you have linked to will fit the gap either bare and certainly not with insulation.

 

Tom.

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