Upgrade Accuracy while keeping FPS fairly constant?

[ShaneG]

I recently bought a TM VSR-10 g-spec. It is second hand but still has all of the original TM parts (no upgrades).

Since I am located in Ireland where there is a 1Joule energy cap on airsoft guns I was wondering If there is any way of increasing the accuracy of the gun without increasing the FPS too much. 

It shoots around 270FPS with 0.2g bb's at the moment (0.7 Joules). Since the cap is at 1 joule, I have around 0.3 Joules to play with.

 

Any advice on how to get the max out of my gun without exceeding the 1Joule limit?

 

Cheers.

[scorch]

A soft upgrade rubber like the firefly soft would be good. I have a firefly hard in my VSR and get great results with it. 

 

The barrel should be ok, but feel free to change it for something else if you like. I'd stick with 6.03mm as the tightest. 6.01mm are not as forgiving with BB choice.

 

Then finally, get a spring that's a little too strong, and trim it down gradually until you're where you want it. 

 

 

Beyond that there's not a great amount to be done. The standard sears will hold up just fine, and it will be pretty quiet. What I would do though, being as you're limited by power and won't get as much range, is keep the barrel the original length so you benefit from the suppressor.

 

Since you don't have distance to keep you safe, use stealth.

[FireKnife]

Have planned to do a similar thing myself, keeping it under 328fps so I can use it without a MED in the UK and as more of a stealth carbine.

 

All I looked at was a tightbore, say 6.03 or 6.02 and maybe a new hop rubber.

 

Also seeing as you will probably be relying on stealth as scorch states try not using a scope and maybe mounting irons or something else, less to snag on, less to get in the way in general and no need to get eye relief perfect.

 

Saying that given how well and far a stock TM can shoot a lower end scope or even a 1x might work?

 

'FireKnife'

[scorch]

Also seeing as you will probably be relying on stealth as scorch states try not using a scope and maybe mounting irons or something else, less to snag on, less to get in the way in general and no need to get eye relief perfect.

 

 

The best sniper in the history of all armed conflict never used a scope.

[FireKnife]

That is very true, considering that I plan to treat it like a bigger pistol (and given the range a gas TM pistol gets) that is near quiet essentially so size and stealth is what I would go for.

 

Now to find a G-Spec in stock at a shop I would use along with the other few parts I need.

 

'FireKnife'

[White_Death1]

I wouldn't trust stock Gspec sears. Mine crapped out at 10k rounds just after the piston died at around 8k. 

 

AirsoftEire might have some SHS ones in stock,they'd do for 320 FPS for a very long time.

 

A piston with a steel catch would be a great improvement. Action army one will do.

 

Try source a Dangerwerx Type B arm for a firefly bukcing or PDi W hold bucking. A dangerwerx Type B works well with laylax buckings or the stock TM one. Stock TM one is pretty great,I'd leave it until it wears out personally.

 

TDC mod is also recommended. have not got around to doing it but it's really effective according to users on airsoft mechanics and airsoft sniper forum.,

 

Seal up the cylinder with PTFE or silicone,and seal the bucking to the barrel with some PTFE tape. 

 

Also,the VSR Gspec is hilariously over volumed. If you get a new piston,remove the air brake. With heavy BBs,like .3s or more ,joule creep ahoy. FPS will be low but joules(Kinetic energy) will creep up. Kind of spotty on the legal side however.but most sites interpret the 1J rule as 328 FPS with .2 bbs not 1 joule of power outright. 

 

I'd use a variable 1-4x small scope for it,I have a 3-9 one on mine and it's stupid overkill,combined with the rifle's short length it feels out of place the big scope.

[scorch]

I wouldn't trust stock Gspec sears. Mine crapped out at 10k rounds just after the piston died at around 8k. 

 

AirsoftEire might have some SHS ones in stock,they'd do for 320 FPS for a very long time.

 

A piston with a steel catch would be a great improvement. Action army one will do.

 

Try source a Dangerwerx Type B arm for a firefly bukcing or PDi W hold bucking. A dangerwerx Type B works well with laylax buckings or the stock TM one. Stock TM one is pretty great,I'd leave it until it wears out personally.

 

TDC mod is also recommended. have not got around to doing it but it's really effective according to users on airsoft mechanics and airsoft sniper forum.,

 

Seal up the cylinder with PTFE or silicone,and seal the bucking to the barrel with some PTFE tape. 

 

Also,the VSR Gspec is hilariously over volumed. If you get a new piston,remove the air brake. With heavy BBs,like .3s or more ,joule creep ahoy. FPS will be low but joules(Kinetic energy) will creep up. Kind of spotty on the legal side however.but most sites interpret the 1J rule as 328 FPS with .2 bbs not 1 joule of power outright. 

 

I'd use a variable 1-4x small scope for it,I have a 3-9 one on mine and it's stupid overkill,combined with the rifle's short length it feels out of place the big scope.

 

TDC mod is a waste of time unless you've got right hook issues. Not all VSRs get that problem and it's an easy mod to cock up, so I can't say it's something you should rush straight into doing.

 

Seal the cylinder with PTFE. Yes, absolutely. Seal the bucking to barrel with PTFE? Nope. Doesn't do much, and isn't long term as it stretches out. PTFE is a lubricant, NOT a sealant. It only seals threads. The best thing I've found to seal the bucking to the barrel is nail varnish, there are better sealants, but nail varnish is cheap to get hold of and easy to remove come time to replace your bucking. 

 

The full length VSR is somewhat over volumed, so of course the G-Spec barrel is even more so, but removing the airbrake does nothing for this. The BB will be out of the barrel of a G-Spec before the airbrake even comes into play. Removing it does nothing but make the gun louder. Joule creep will happen regardless of the airbrake.

 

 

Edit: At sub 1J power, sear replacement is a matter of preference. I wouldn't do it until it needs doing, some prefer to do it right off the bat. Doing it 5-6000 rounds down the line spreads the cost. If you've just bought the rifle and can get away with not buying sears til next month, it leaves you a bit more money this month for decent BBs and anything else you might need. God knows I've skinted myself by trying to do everything at the same time before.

[ShaneG]

Cheers for the advice.

 

Right, I'll get an m120 spring (should shoot around 390 fps with 0.2g,1.41joules) and cut it down a bit until i'm at around 330 fps with .2s. The 1 joule cap here in Ireland is irritating... I will leave the hop-up stock for the moment since I hear the TM hops are good. I will seal the cylinder with some PTFE too.

 

My wish is to maximise the fps so I can use heavier, more consistent bb's without sacrificing range too much while staying under the 1joule cap.

 

 

Thanks. 

[Katotaka]

M120 would be way too hot for 1J cap, to me the M-rating spring thing is like the MPS with 0.2g BBs, so for 1J it's exactly 100MPS. I worry you will end up with a spring too shot and wiggle in the cylinder if you go with the cutting method.

 

According to PDI http://www.x-fire.org/top/spring.html they even state that the 85 and 90 M/S VSR spring is rated using original chamber and could be over 0.98J when used with their chamber/inner barrel combo. There is a law about airsoft gun muzzle energy limit at 0.98J so the sub-1J specific springs are marketed in the Japanese version of the store only, you may want to shoot them a email and state your case if you're buying from them, IMO they are easy to work with

 

 

BTW for your case I would prefer "widebore" but precision made inner barrels ( yeah I dig the air cushion theory ) if you're looking for tight grouped shots without shooting too hot, that way you can use some stronger spring to compensate but it would cost quite a fortune.... 

 

 

Either way you may want to grab some barrel spacers

[ShaneG]

Ok, I am thinking of getting a Laylax 100 spring. Since the power of that spring is still relatively low the TM parts should still be able to cope with it so I won't have to change those out. If it's shooting a bit hot, I'll cut the spring down a bit. Also, I'm going to make some barrel spacers and seal the cylinder with some PTFE.

 

cheers.

[FireKnife]

Just to add would it not be best to stick with the stock spring and then mod the other parts to achieve a higher FPS?

 

Given that the stock gun would put out consitent FPS with the stock parts would not ust sealing around the barrel and perhaps switching to a tighter bore be better than pulling it all open and cutting the spring down or even changing the spring? Just an idea as if you want to keep under 328 and the average out of the box gun goes around 290-300 you should easily be able to get the extra FPS from other means?

 

'FireKnife'