Some WA SCW3 Q's

[hitmanNo2]

As I cant seem to source a second WA Series 70 Premium edition to go with my other one, i'm going to try to custom make one using available bits.

Going to start with one of new silver magnatechs and install a Prime metal kit. Now I know these magnatechs have no backing on the slide notch area, which I find quite odd. Anyway, anyone know if this is the the case on the Prime metal kits as well? I really hope its not, but I can't quite make it out from the photo i've seen. I don't see why it would be, but I just want to check.

 

Next question, would it be feasible to use a very fine wet/dry paper on the metal frame and slide to get a very nice reflective finish? I've done it before with aluminium, but I have no idea about the quality of aluminium Prime use on their kits. Also how would I treat the new polished surface without dulling it?

 

Next problem. Controls, I would want the trigger, mainspring housing, slide release, thumb safety etc as close to chrome as possible to match everything else. After stripping the original paint from these bits, is there some process I can put them through to get them nice and shiny? or is it a case of them being made from pot metal, and not being able to be put through certain processes pure metals could go through?

 

Also, last question for now. Whats the purpose of the small cut in 1911 outer barrels? I figure they must be there for a reason, but I cant work out what it is.

 

Thanks for anyones help.

[bronney]

1. Both prime and pgc fmv 1911 kits HAVE backing in the slidestop notch. (non see thru). But all are SCW2 which isn't a problem as the SCW3 breech will fit. Problem solved, money gone. lol.

 

2. Prime's aluminum can be polished. I don't know how high grade it is but my friend send the slide off to the shops for finishes and they do mirror, and the mirror stays. So problem solved. However, if you're doing it by hand make sure you shave off the same amount from both sides (for the sake of balance). I know these are toys, but I don't know if you're as picky as I am

 

3. DO NOT polish the controls. All will varnish. And you will end up hating the gun. Your only option is to get full controls from Sheriff -> more money gone = stainless steel. you can get a cheaper main spring housing from PGC or Prime but only sheriff makes the controls you want. And mirrors are rare even here in hong kong. Brushed we got tonnes.

 

4. I don't know what's the purpose of the cut in 1911 barrels. But please make sure you get the right kind, there's .40 and .45. I am not sure which one's for the 70. But my TLE uses a .45.

[hitmanNo2]

Thanks bronney, I had a feeling that would be the case for the controls. I was thinking of getting a premium series 80 which still seem to be available at some places and taking the controls of that. Looking at parts diagrams, it seems as if the trigger, mag catch, slide release, thumb safety and mainspring housing are interchangeable. Then it would just be a case of getting a Sheriff grip safety and hammer and barrel bushing I guess. Would these Sheriff parts be able to be polished?

[Catman]

I tried to reply to this thread last night and after typing a fair bit got the "too many connections" message... then promptly lost all I'd typed

 

*fume*

 

Yeah polishing the metal is a pain and parts go dull too quickly. I got a full metal kit on it's way to me (this beaut ) for my Series 80 SCW2.

 

At the price have the shiny bits cost I half tempted to buy another 1911 with the shiny parts I want on it

[bronney]

Hitman news update. I got word from a buddy who tried sheriff (too rich or too addicted), he said get shooter's design or guarder instead. That's only for outer barrel and chamber info. As I don't think SD and guarder makes full controls. The slide stops I think sheriff is fine cuz I got one. But definitely don't get sheriff's outer barrels he said they rust.

 

And yes sheriff parts, along with guarder and SD steel parts can all be polished with no varnishing.

[Cerebus]

Also, last question for now.  Whats the purpose of the small cut in 1911 outer barrels? I figure they must be there for a reason, but I cant work out what it is.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

If you're talking about the small cut above the cartridge chamber, it's so you can see if the gun is chambered (on real steel) without having to pull the slide back, which can lead to ND's if done wrong ie: pinch checking.

 

Chris.

[hitmanNo2]

bronney, have you seen the new Prime SCW 3 kits? its looks as if there is no backing on the slide catch area on the close up photo on uncompany.

[bronney]

That is correct the scw3 fmv kits have no backings.

[hitmanNo2]

There wouldn't be a problem if I epoxyed a small piece of metal to inside of the slide would there? So the piece would fill up half the slide notch and then stick out about 1mm into the slide. I dont think it would interfere with cycling but I just want to check.

[bronney]

to recap you want to install a metal kit for an old system WA 1911 with back on the slide correct? If so your slide stop should have a slit in the middle. If that's the case, don't get any kit that has no backing. It will bulge the notch. I tried it with my sheriff stop.

 

It all boils down to what slidestop you have.

[hitmanNo2]

Well I was planning on getting an SCW3 metal kit, using the internals from a SCW3 and using the controls from an SCW1 which will obviously have the slit in the middle of the slide catch, which will not be compatible with the SCW3 kit. What I was thinking was doing the thing in my previous post, therefore allowing a SCW1 slide catch to work on an SCW3 slide. I have access to CNC machines, so hopefully it should be relatively straight forward.