Jump to content


Regular Poster
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Lt.Fenix

  • Rank
    Regular Poster
  • Birthday 10/04/1985

Additional Information

  • Airsofter since
  • Country
    United States

Profile Information

  • Gender
  1. Excellent seller. Shipped FAST, great communication, A++! Would gladly do business with again.

  2. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Kind of a late response, but anyway... Look, I tried a while back, If you can even find it anymore since this thread has been extremely inflated. And he hasn't risen above anything. if you look back all he has said was essentially "your views are contrary to mine, therefore you don't know what's going on," or "you're not contributing." He never made any attempt to present any arguments. He just can't handle logical arguments, period. His only response is to lie. Oh yes, and also to ridicule. If anything he has stooped lower and lower for every subsequent post. It's great that he's helping people, making hourly posts because he apparently has no other obligations to fulfill, but does that justify him being a *beep* to one person? It almost seems to me that he's simply an attention-######... But you know, I can't quite stoop so low as he can, to make some sort of childish statement in my signiture. Well, maybe it actually suits him; I can imagine that guy saying Forrest Gump's line with the broken southern accent due to his sub-80 IQ mental handicap. If anything, the insults have gone both ways. And even if everyone starts ignoring my posts, I could care less. It's not like I'll be able to stop anyone from doing so anyway. As long as someone can get some amount info/help from my posts, which again if anyone can even find them anymore, I won't care. With that said, here's another (previously posted) way one could modify the RS charging handle to grab the proper part of the bolt carrier, if anyone even remembers anything about it. Socket head screw with counterbore to get proper clearance for the bolt. Advantage over roll pin: More material can be left between the drilled hole and the back wall since the screw head is wide. The hole can be drilled right in the middle instead of close to the edge, so it's more durable. Seems to work perfectly so far for me.
  3. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Uhh... Yes it would work. You're worried about the screwhead being too thick? Ever heard of counterboring? Didn't think so. And as someone else has already mentioned, Loctite. Since you will definitely be lost in all of this complex language as usual, I will say that the rollpin idea will also work. But when you say the bolt method won't work, once again.... classic rottenotto.
  4. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Haha, classic rottenotto. Completely missing the point of the post and at the same time resorting to lies. Since when was stating facts being an *beep*? Can you objectively point out anything I said in that post to be wrong? Nope. So you resort to completely disregarding it since it doesn't fit into what you believe should fit into your own little world. The o-ring solution works and you just can't handle this fact. Instead you fill the forum with useless posts so that a very efficient and simple solution to a problem gets buried in your junk. Way to contribute. Also, one of your supposed contributions has already been shown to be a known fact, in case you can't handle reading. It was a contribution that I had already made. Maybe it would help to read and perhaps... think every once in a while? You seem to be confused quite often. With that said, I await another one of your completely oblivious responses that indicate that you have nothing useful to respond with. Go ahead and instant-reply an irrelevent 10 second post, Mr. Contributor.
  5. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Not sure why you mentioned this again, as it has already been mentioned before. Refer to post #1255 date Dec 04 2008. Also I'm pretty sure the upper and lower receivers are made of aluminum, not pot metal. I believe Airsoft Buddy has stated this. You did. Twice. Amnesia? Selective memory? Either that or your word choices are just plain poor. And regards to the RS charging handle, I like IBICO's solution the best. The bottom portion of the charging handle has enough material that one could drill through and tap it and then insert a screw there. The only difference in opinion I have is that I don't think a separate steel plate is necessary; the head of the screw should be sufficient in pulling the bolt using the proper groove. Oh, and I've tried someone's suggestion before regarding #122. I tried replacing it with the aforementioned #83 o-ring, 1/2 x 5/16 x 3/32, and it works pretty much perfectly. The fit in the brass chamber is pretty much perfect, it's large enough that it provides an excellent seal, while being not too big so that not too much additional friction is applied. Any reduction in speed of the bolt is not really noticable at all, just apply some silicon oil on the o-ring. Also from what I can tell the ROF is exactly the same as before; around 800 rpm or so. There was one indication for me to how it has improved the blowback. My magazine now falls out from the gun occasionally when I fire in full auto due to the recoil . For now I've screwed in the mag catch by one more revolution to provide better retention, but a stronger mag catch spring might be necessary. Screwing in the mag catch more is probably sufficient though. I would also recommend replacing #37 as the o-ring is very flimsy and tends to get squashed when you screw in #38. Just get a similarly sized one that's slightly thicker, this would also help in dealing with screw #36 becoming lose over time. So to anyone whose #122 is starting to get damaged, I would, as someone else (Sephas?) already has, recommend going to your local hardware store and buying a #83 1/2 x 5/16 x 3/32 o-ring. I'm not sure what this rottenotto guy did wrong, but the o-ring worked perfectly for me.
  6. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    You know, I just realized that I wrote "conclusion" in place of "confusion." The wonderful effects of sleep deprivation.
  7. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Because I haven't taken it all apart, specifically the big brass chamber to measure it. Not sure how you jumped to the conclusion that I hadn't disassembled the gun just based on that. It's not like I pull out my caliper everytime I disassemble a gun. Anyway you still need to answer my question regarding what you call "the valve," and how that's different from what I call "the nozzle." And if there really is no difference, which I claim there isn't, then there's a whole lot of stuff I posted that you need to look at that you conveniently skipped earlier. Maybe to prevent any further conclusion you could cite the exploded diagram like I have.
  8. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    I have taken it apart, and I really don't see much room for confusion, and also I'm pretty certain I know how the system works. Let's not get hasty and assume ignorance here... in that regard I might take issue. I might say that in fact you don't quite understand the system, but that would lead the discussion to degenerate into insults. First thing's first then. We can refer to the exploded diagram. What I'm describing as the nozzle is the entire assembly of parts from numbers 40 through 46, which is attached to the end of the thin rod #39. This is the assembly which takes in some of the gas to expell the bb and the rest of the gas goes into the back majority of the brass chamber #112 which #122 is sealing to allow the blowback action to occur. What are you referring to when you say "nozzle" and "valve?"
  9. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Well your wording made the impression that you were talking about all GBB's in general, including pistols and smg's. In that case I suppose I could agree, I've had several Escort guns, an SP A1, A2, and an Escort MP5, and have experienced that problem somewhat, and have also read others' experiences. Pistols and SMG's are generally unaffected by this. Your wording definitely made it seem like it was solely cooldown from continuous fire that caused it. I'm referring to firing at room temperature, not in cold weather. Be careful with your wording But that's what you were talking about... you're talking about the damage on no.122. The nozzle "slop" has virtually no effect on the damage of no.122, which is the rubber piece that acts as the seal for the blowback chamber by the way. The reason was stated by me earlier: that the nozzle remains within the brass chamber during the entire blowback cycle, so any "slop" is negated by the fact that it's guided by the brass chamber. Talking about the looseness of the nozzle is irrelevent, because the bolt is guided by the receiver and not the nozzle. And yes I've opened my gun, but I haven't disassembled the chamber so I never measured its inner diameter. But the fact that 122 is smaller than the inner diameter of the chamber doesn't negate most of what I've said, and in fact actually enhances my stances. Why? It tells us that its collision with the end of the brass chamber is even less likely the source of the problem now. And like I've said, since the bolt doesn't move around appreciably side-to-side and it is no doubt what is determining the location of no.122, the only conclusions I can make is that either your brass chamber is currently misaligned so much that it clips off parts of the rubber, or the combination of your usage of the gun in cold weather and the poor quality rubber are to blame, which would freeze the rubber and cause the ends to crack off. In the first case installing a new rubber piece no matter how high quality of the material will most likely end in it being severely damaged just like the stock piece. Then increasing the angle of the chamfer on the inside might have the unintended effect of sharpening the back end edge and leading to quicker deterioration of 122. I would suggest that you make sure your brass chamber is aligned correctly, because your problem won't go away until you do if this is the case. The second case, which I think is the main problem, would simply involve getting a higher quality piece that is made of material which is durable enough and can withstand cold temperatures, but that's only assuming the chamber is properly aligned. That was a reply to 4boost's post... and no reference was made to no.122. He explicitly stated concern about the alignment of the nozzle, so I posted to say that the nozzle movement was irrelevent. Additionally, you did point out falsely that the nozzle (which you called the valve assembly, I assume that's what you meant) leaves the cylinder and its side to side movement results in it not entering "cleanly." So yes you did mention it as a problem, but my point is that it's not really there for the cited reasons. Also, please use the quoting system properly :-p... the method you used to quote and reply within the quote makes it hard for me to subsequently quote your remarks because the forum system doesn't quote already quoted sections... so it's harder to refer back to the original reply. Lastly, I'm assuming you're not taking my arguments as personal attacks and I assure you I am not taking yours personally... because this is a discussion that would help all owners of the WE M4 in the end.
  10. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    I'm assuming you're talking about the Command Arms G27? I've never handled one before, but the UPG16 comes with 3 sets of interchangeable rubber front and backstraps. One of the front straps has 3 finger grooves, one has just a single bump like a standard A2 grip, and the one I'm using has none. The backstraps are simply different in size. Perhaps it's true with the WE; I don't know because I haven't tinkered with it, but most GBB's have rubber chambers in addition to the hop-up that can capture the bb so to speak, so in general too high of a hop-up is not necessary for most properly designed GBB's. I mean this is essentially how GBB's worked before hop-up was invented... they had to stop the bb's somehow. I have to say that your concern about thermal expansion, or more appropriately for this case contraction, is wildly overblown. For steel the thermal expansion coefficient is about 10^-5 in/K. The value for brass is the same order of magnitude. This means for temperature fluctuations on the order of several tens of degrees K up to maybe a maximum of 100K which is more than sufficient when talking about GBB's (remember that water goes from ice to boiling in a range of 40K), a length difference of maybe only on the order of 10^-4 and at most 10^-3 inches would result. Which is more precision than WE probably use in manufacturing these GBB's. Considering the price of them I doubt any precision better than 1/1000 or maybe 1/100 of an inch is used. Even then such a temperature fluctuation is generous considering that the gas has already expanded quite a bit while it has traveled to inside the innards of the bolt assembly. The thermal contraction is negligible for purposes of GBB's. I'm not sure what "slop" you're referring to here, but part no.122 is pretty solidly fixated to the bolt assembly itself and suffers from no excess sideways movements alone. So assuming at the beginning of the blowback cycle that it is properly aligned, any side-to-side motions resulting in misalignment would either result in the bolt itself, the brass chamber, or both moving side to side. The brass chamber is pretty solidly mounted to the frame, so we can consider the bolt. However, I honestly believe the bolt doesn't have enough slack in the receiver to be explicitly causing the damage to no. 122. It could be possible that your brass chamber is slightly misaligned to start with. My opinion is that the part is simply made too thin or is made of poor quality material, or both, to account for the tearing. The nature of the part requires that it be at least very slightly larger than the brass chamber to ensure a good seal, so some amount of "collision" so to speak, is probably unavoidable and actually desirable, only with the chamfered portion of course. Misalignment of the loading nozzle shouldn't be a concern because the loading nozzle stays in the brass chamber during the entire duration of the blowback cycle. That's the entire purpose of the long rod. Look up into the magwell at the chamber and pull back the charging handle all the way. You'll see that the loading nozzle only travels just enough to let a single bb in and then push it in front of the hop-up... it only moves about 2cm maybe. Mine hasn't seen as much damage as you guys are describing with no.122, but I'm gonna try my luck with the o-ring suggestion if or when my gun starts experiencing problems.
  11. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Finally took some pics of my WE M4 the other day. -BT KAC Knights Armament Style RIS Rail Handguard -Command Arms UPG16 Pistol Grip -Custom Machined Steel Commando Length Barrel Extension -DPMS Aluminum 1-Rail Gas Block -Guarder XM177E2 Flash Hider -G&P Tactical Laser -G&P Systema Extended Stock QD Sling Mount -G&P X9 High Pressure Xenon Alunimium Hand Torch -King Arms Folding Battle Sight Set -King Arms QD Sling Swivel for 20mm Rail -King Arms Quick Release Flashlight Mount -KM M16 Sling -Magpul CTR Mil-spec Stock /w Rubber Pad -NC STAR Panorama Electro Red/Green Dot Sight -Nitro.Vo Rail Sleeve 16 for M4 Series -UTG Rail Vertical Grip I usually don't like vertical foregrips on carbines, but with the flashlight attached it looked kind of empty without it.
  12. Lt.Fenix

    G&P GBB M4A1 family

    I have serious doubts about your account. I can't see any possible way that you could twist that brass chamber while simply using the gun... there's no way the bolt could do that, because I think the bolt is in contact with the brass chamber all the time. And also for obvious reasons with the receiver the bolt can't move sideways and so it can't bend it that way to cause damage. Either the guy was lying or you're greatly exaggerating. The parts on the WE can be replaced. AFC and Airsoft Buddy both offer the sale of spare parts. You can buy any spare part from the exploded diagram from what I understand. From what I have heard the WA suffers both in quality and is higher priced. For the WA the ubiquity of pot metal parts and the subsequent problems when using green gas are big factors. The WE has a full steel bolt and other essential parts that are steel. The magazines are also of much higher quality. There really is no trade-off there.
  13. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Isn't that a one-piece RIS that screws into where the barrel nut normally would? I don't see how you'd be worried about wobble with an RIS like that... The KAC styled ones are two-piece, which would go on the gun just like the standard forearms. From my understanding this is why people consider wobble to be a potential issue.
  14. Lt.Fenix

    WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

    Great summation slu, but I have a couple of small corrections. Real steel charging handles actually work without any modifications. They just happen to grab a different part of the bolt than the stock one due to the very slightly different shape at the front end. They still function as they should. The hole inside of the magwell is not caused by wear. They will just come like that. Saying that the hole developes implies that somehow the magazine rubbing against the wall creates the hole. This is inaccurate. The hole is inherent from the design and most likely happens when the mag catch hole is drilled in the lower receiver.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.