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Schaap

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    194
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About Schaap

  • Rank
    Regular Poster
  • Birthday October 25

Additional Information

  • Airsofter since
    2004
  • Country
    Belgium

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ostend

Recent Profile Visitors

711 profile views
  1. I've performed the following upgrades: - TM SOPMOD original barrel (had that one as a spare, lol) - Clicky-wheel fix + electrical tape to make hop-up more stable - G&P Hop-up rubber, guarder nub (the original army bucking had a manufacturing error I think) - Element Ultra Torque Motor (fitted just fine?) - Replaced fuse with 20A car fuse - Spring cut down from 380FPS (stock) to 320-330 I'm currently using a 7.4V 1200mAh LiPo under my G&P RAS (did have to use my TM bottom rail for the battery to fit) I probably used the wrong word by saying "performs", it has an accuracy e
  2. I did not forget you're the expert on this forum, that is why I did not expect hearing what you said. Make no mistake, I was also one of the first to buy a Tokyo Marui SOPMOD, yet I decided to buy an ARMY the second it was released. My first cheap clone ever. While my fully upgraded Marui is indeed more accurate than my ARMY, mine (with small upgrades) does not perform less than a stock SOPMOD; for half the price. There is no magic or pixie dust involved, it's mechanics: if you have good parts and assemble it properly, it performs the same. Then again, the upgraded Ma
  3. Wait? What? I'm sorry, but you are bashing a clone based on a $5 hop-up rubber? The click adjustment can be fixed in no-time, the 'loosy-looseness' of the unit with .05$ worth of electrical tape. I did that, and using a G&P hop-up bucking (yes, you're probably laughing), my hop-up unit performs just as good as any TM. Yes, the motor is pretty bad, but my $25 Element motor outperforms the Marui's motor by far. - Mags are tight; too tight, no denying in that. - The standard crane stock is rubbish x 1000... Very true. I had a G&P one laying around anyway. - The recoil
  4. Lone_Bullet, this should help: http://echigoyaworks.com/showthread.php?tid=9
  5. The convertor isn't slowing it down. There is some energy loss when charging a battery. A 1300mAh can take 1-1.5 times its capacity before being fully charged.
  6. It is not. The cut-off lever you are referring to has the same function as any gearbox cut-off lever and has nothing to do with the bolt-catch mechanism, unfortunately! In this video by our favorite contributor Richard Y, you can have a clear view on the parts that are missing: Around 2:30 down the video!
  7. About the DyTac sights: I've had to mill/file/dremel to get the rear sight on (or rather the BBU back in). I didn't fix the front sight with Loctite so I lost it after a few shots. Now the biggest downside: "Glow in dark after exposed to light" is slightly overrated. After a minute or so, the luminosity is gone.
  8. UrPeaceKeeper, talking about that USMC DMR stock makes me want one, but I bet the chances are pretty slim they will ever make one. About the FPS issue, you are totally right. In Belgium, the limit is 350fps with .20gr BBs, but like you said, using a heavier BB on the field with a GBB replica will sometimes dramaticaly increase the muzzle energy... It's a problem that nobody seems to bother here...
  9. No, this is the type of magazine that has been delivered with all VFC models. Maybe you are confusing VFC with King Arms, which do have a WA HD-clone magazine.
  10. I think, like many, we'd rather buy a new nozzle shell every 3-6 months than disabling the bolt catch mechanism. I have no clue how many rounds I have put through my WOC, but here is the list of broken parts: - Broken bearings (both) on the hammer, sizes 3x6x2,5 and 4x6x2,5 if anyone wonders... - Broken buffer retaining pin (G&P steel one is available) - Milled a small piece of the bolt carrier so it would lock back again... I think it's up for another couple of thousand rounds. - "Magic Pin" to eliminate receiver wobble - Original nozzle tip is damaged, but still shoots very con
  11. Both my Guarder frames cracked at the front screw and back screw after only a few hundred rounds. This was on propane, but in wintertime, using a PGC slide. I've installed the original frames back on them and haven't had any cracks ever since. I hope they last longer for you guys!
  12. Schaap

    KJW M4

    Sounds like yesterday to me! @Lupus78: Very nice L119A1. The waffle magazines actually look pretty good on those... a shame they don't make STANAGs for the rest of us
  13. If that would be the case, there would be no blowback and the magazine would vent because... You do have a blow back, right? Whilst if the nozzle is stuck in its forward position, the bolt carrier will cycle just fine, but because the nozzle does not retract, it will not be able to load a BB. As someone has suggested on GGi: use a camera in a bright-lighting condition to film the blow back... If the nozzle does not retract, it should be easy to spot.
  14. What is the status of your nozzle return spring? When you pull the nozzle out of the BCG, does it return nice and quickly to its original position?
  15. IIRC the rear scope rail is adjustable in height, right? Or isn't the adjustable height enough to solve the misalignment?
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