GHK AKS74

[wraithxt1]

I was shooting around with my new GHK Ak105 and suddenly, NOTHING! It stopped firing. I traced it back to what looks like the hammer spring. I've attached a few pictures for you guys to see. Does anyone know how I am supposed to fix this?

 

 

 

 

 

Well I still cant figure out how the hell this spring ever set the hammer forward, I cant see anywhere to attach it or anywhere for it to get leverage. Did something snap from mine?

 

 

Edited August 9, 2009 by wraithxt1

[snorkelman]

you're missing the long leg on the spring as seen here

 

 

 

all you have is the short leg that sits up against the insde of the hammer sear area

 

 

Basically with the proper length spring you drop the spring into place align the short leg up against the rear of the sear area. At that point (while not under tension) the long leg points downwards you grab the long leg and turn it thru 90 degrees or so, so that it points backwards towards pistol grip.

 

As the short leg is held against rear of the hammer sear area then it cant rotate forwards at same time - which results in the spring going into tension.

 

You then slide the hammer and spring into place and shove the axis pin thru it. The long leg is then sitting flat against the floor of the receiver, pointing back towards the grip, while the short leg is sat behind the hammer sear constantly wanting to push the hammer forwards.

 

When you cock the hammer the short leg moves backwards while the long leg has nowhere to go, resulting in more tension.

Edited August 9, 2009 by snorkelman

[wraithxt1]

Do you have any idea where I can get another spring? It doesn't look like ghk sells spares!

 

Ty for the pictures and info !

[snorkelman]

RAT used to sell spares for GHK guns (only folks Ive ever seen who did) they might have some

 

Only other alternative would be to have someone make you one from spring/music wire - I'd avoid trying to make one yourself as that wire can ruin your day if you arent used to dealing with it

[PlasticMag]

Might be compatible with real parts?

[snorkelman]

Might be compatible with real parts?

 

sadly no

 

spring would be too strong, too wide and way it fits over both sides of the hammer (rather than coiled inside righthand side of it) means there'd be no way to catch the auto sear setup that GHK uses

[wraithxt1]

This doesnt look promising, RAtech doesnt have one available, I sent an email to daytonagun to check but I doubt it.

 

Any other ideas on where I can get one of these damn springs?

[RUSHER2]

Hey guys ! Ive had my GHK for a while know a long while. and like the selector When i put it in single it shoots auto and in auto it shoots single. and in safe it still fires which its not supposed to. its never realy bothered me becuase it still works but. is there a fix to this and a guide on how to fix it?

[snorkelman]

@wraith If you're really stuck you could try a real steel AR/M16 hammer spring (not a WA-GBB style one they havent enough coils) Cut one side off of that and then trim the legs down to length.

 

No guarantee it'll be the correct diameter to fit but is only standard/cheap/accesible thing I can think of using off top of my head

 

Bear in mind torsion springs are wound either right hand or left hand so if you use the wrong side of an AR spring it'll unwind as you fit it rather than tighten (in which case do same using the other side you still have left)

 

@rusher - sure you've got the firing mode logic right? On an AK it should be safe then auto then semi (not safe semi and auto)

 

reason I ask is that would make more sense for the symptoms you describe and how the fireselector lever works

 

e.g.

 

think of the internal selectr lever paddle as the hour hand on a clock. As you move the outer selector lever the inner paddle sits at 5 oclock (safe), sits at 6.30/7 oclock (auto) then finally sits at around 8 oclock when gun is in semi

 

 

I'll work thru the modes in reverse order starting with semi:

 

On SEMI - the inner paddle is at the 7.30/8 oclock position - its clear of both the trigger and the sprung rear trigger hook (the black wobbly bit inside the rear of the trigger). As a result you can pull the trigger - trigger pivots down at front and up at rear bringing the sprung loaded rear hook up at rear with it

 

hammer flies forward gun fires

 

bolt carrier recocks the hammer which gets caught by the sprung loaded rear trigger hook and held by it till the trigger is released (at which point the hammer gets released from that rear hook and caught by the front hook)

 

On AUTO - the inner selector paddle rotates to a 6.30 or 7 oclock postion This lets it engage the rear of the sprung rear trigger hook

 

trigger is pulled - front of the trigger pivots down, rear of the trigger pivots up same as before - but this time the spring loaded rear hook doesnt travel upwards along with the rear of the trigger (the selector paddle is holding it down)

 

hammer flies forward fires the gun

 

bolt carrier recocks the hammer but as theres no rear hook in line to hold it in cocked position like there was in SEMI, its now free to fly forwards again once the bolt carrier disengages the hammer sear.

 

on SAFE the paddle sits angled forwards (around 5 oclock position) this lets the paddle engage the rear of the trigger. trigger cant be pulled so gun is unable to fire.

 

so on your rifle the most likely problem is the paddle not engaging the trigger to lock it from movement - if the trigger can move it'll fire as though it was in the next available mode (full auto)

 

either the paddle is too short, the paddle is bent or the trigger needs built up where the paddle should be engaging it. As both auto and semi are working I'd be more inclined to pin the blame on the main trigger itself (rather than a bent or too short paddle). Remove the trigger and add a little material to each side of it (JB weld etc) where the selector paddle should be sitting against it in safe.

 

 

[wraithxt1]

on another note, my selector arm is EXTREMELY loose, it WILL NOT stay in auto for more than a shot or two before falling down. On semi it may fall below semi, which seems dangerous. I looked at how to tighten it cant see a way to get into it.

[snorkelman]

on another note, my selector arm is EXTREMELY loose, it WILL NOT stay in auto for more than a shot or two before falling down. On semi it may fall below semi, which seems dangerous. I looked at how to tighten it cant see a way to get into it.

 

if its the same as the original style on I have here it uses a dboys selector arm attached ot internal paddle

 

a screw holds the selector arm in place and a 5 or 6mm e-clip sits in a groove on the internal arm hard against the inside of the lower receiver to stop any side-to side slop

 

try unscrewing the bolt lifting off the selector arm and bending it in slightly at the front so the small punched dimple on it engages better with the notch on the receiver (that should also stop it being able to slide below semi, and will add a little spring tension to it in general)

 

Real steel selector would be a much firmer fit but theres just too much material inside the AEG receivers to allow it to fit unmodified - even when it was modded to physically go in you'ld then find the paddle on the real one is too short to engage the GHK trigger hook and trigger so would need lengthened, then you'ld find the cut out for the bolt carrier to pass over isnt deep enough to cope with the GHKs blowback chamber and would need cut deeper too.

[Marlowe]

A quick update:

 

The rifle had a stress-test at a 12 hour event yesterday (see the event section for a review of Red Mist 2), and performed faultlessly throughout.

 

With the NPAS bolt now installed, the rifle was adjusted to fire at 305.1fps with .25 rounds (1.08J) and when chronoed on site did so consistently without any variation at all. Cooldown on a summer's day was minimal - it seems to kick in at any point after 5 seconds continuous automatic fire, which only occurred when I was trying to intentionally empty the magazines - there's not typically any real need for such a heavy sustained fire in game. Anyone concerned about C02 should probably check out the C02 magazines, which hopefully will be superior in that degree.

 

The rifle was accurate and consistent throughout the day - at 1.08J on .25s the hop had to almost be entirely depressed, I noticed, in order to maintain a consistent flight. I would be tempted to replace the inner barrel with a tightbore in the long term, but there is no real need for this at present.

 

Two main issues I've had since owning the gun:

 

The easy adjustment (NPAS) valve is deformed - the pin that the tool attaches to is bent, meaning it is impossible to adjust the bolt with the tool. Instead, at present, the valve needs adjusting manually by dismantling the bolt. Many thanks to Snorkelman for helping me understand the process for this.

 

One of the six magazines has a faulty valve that sticks. I had fixed this but unfortunately (on its final round, thankfully#) the valve stuck down now, emptying half of its gass down the barrel in a plume of gas. The rest emptied on my thumb as I tried to free the valve, giving me quite a sore thumb (frostbite!).

 

I've contacted RA-TECH to order replacement parts - they have a pricelist stating a price of $13.50 for the tool and same for the valve. This does sound as though it is a recurring issue, after having viewed gasguns.info, so please check your magazines upon receiving them - it's much better to just return if you have one.

 

 

[wraithxt1]

Just an update, I used my GHK AK for a field game about two months ago in 80 degree weather. It was extremely accurate, and extremely FUN to use! The last set of the day say my stock bolt carrier cracking around the screws near the front of the bolt carrier. End of the line there. I also noticed that as some point in the day the latch that locks the folding stock down snapped off. I no longer have a functioning folding stock.

 

I dropped one of my magazines on cement from about three feet while transporting it. The magazine fell into peices and I was unable to get it back together as several small springs went flying into the grass.

 

I ended up fixing my AK with parts from a broken GHK ak I was sold online. So far my experience with the model would be mostly thumbs down. Too much money and work going into a not quite functioning replica.

[happy.al]

Thansk for the update,

 

I've been thinking about buying one for a while, but still not sure. Might wait a bit longer, to see what other issues come up. Is it any more work that getting a GBB M4 working right?

[ST19AG_WGreymon]

Is it true that only the AK-105 has the fake gas piston? Been trying to find videos of the final AK-105 internals to check but so far have only found prototype vids showing the piston.

[kingdong]

how is this rifle holding up now? im really interested in getting one soon. how many rounds have you put down?

[Robbyem]

I just bought one and it should be here soon, I'll look into the after market parts that will make this skirmishable.

[sowi]

any long term experiences? I'm really curious...

[Marlowe]

Update as I just noticed your response - sorry for the necro.

 

I've now sold mine to Fragmatic.

 

There are a number of issues to contend with:

 

1) Some of the inlet valves on the magazines developed a slow leak. Try tightening the valves in further as some are fitted loose. If this fails to resolve the issue, they can be replaced with madbull inlet valves ( a straight replacement).

 

2) Over time the o-rings on the outlet (striker) valves can expand, which the OEM springs pushing the valves back outwards after being struck by the trigger can struggle to push against. As a result the valves can become slow to release, and eventually cease up entirely. At the best this causes a lot of unecessary gas to flow after a shot - in the worst case the whole mag vents on the first shot. This can be fixed by removing the valves, dismantling (can provide advice on how to if needed - just let me know), and replacing with suitable stronger springs. The valves will then be forced out as usual.

 

3) As detailed above, the trigger spring appears to go after time. Sadly Fragmatic discovered this after I sold it to him - the trigger spring snapped when he was testing it, causing the bolt to lock back. Replacements can be sourced from RA-Tech.

 

4) The screws in the RA Tech NPAS bolt (which hold the nozzle / valve assembly in) can loosen over time due to recoil. They start to drop down and scrap against the receiver. Loctiting is highly recommended as a precaution).

 

Other than this, the gun was great fun to own. The predicted issues, such as cooldown on auto in sub 10c conditions are an obvious factor to contend with, meaning these do not represent an all-year gun; anyone looking for a permanent aeg replacement would be best advised to look for an escort / DG system running on a larger reservoir which will not be so easily affected by ambient operating temperature. Personally I don't airsoft in soviet kit enough these days to justify ownership, which is why I sold, but I would still recommend these.