Bullpup G36

[Jon L]

regular wired? locked in?

 

Well the idea was to have the wiring running form the gun out through a hole in the bottom on the handguard/just in front of the magwell and then with a wire coming out the rear of the grip connect the two using deans connectors. You would then just have excess wire in the gun and could pull however much you wanted out to increase the reach, or stuff it back into the hole to decrease.

[BFOUR]

I wouldnt want to risk having those wires snag good luck, Im looking forward to how this comes out.

[Triggerhappychappy]

I'd use flexible silicon insulated wire, and assuming theres enough space inside the guns' casing, run the wires inside. A single hole in the top of the grip would be enough to allow the wires to poke through a slot/hole running along the middle of the RIS, then as you slide it back and forth the wire wont become trapped, yet still allows for adjustment. I'll draw a pic if required but hopefully you see what I mean- no need for connectors or trailing wires that way

[Pendra]

Bullpup G36?

Sorry that was the first thing that pop into my mind.

 

Anyway, I would go for something like these:

 

I had this idea from the Spanish thread linked above. I had the gun and all, but I figured that:

- The fore grip is not firm enough to handle that kind of stress. Like holding the full weight of the gun.

- The scoope would sit too low to be usable. If I removed the cocking handle and the plastic that covers it, it would be better. But that would produce a completely unrealistic weapon. A gun without a cocking handle of some sort.

- It would look too much like a FAMAS from a distance.

 

I would drop the trigger - rod system, too. Just set the GB into full auto and wire up a trigger. Add a wire to the trigger and the other in front of that. When you pull the trigger, the the 2 wires meet and you have full auto fire.

 

[Jon L]

Sorry but i think i have made it quite clear that the mechanical rod is only there for testing. I fully intend on using an electrical system.

 

On another note, testing for today has been rained off as only 4 people showed up on site today, o well. Just means more time to source a spare stock and butcher it ;p

[bankz5152]

 

Looks a lil like this.

 

Id keep the G36C carry handle rather than change.

 

As for the movable trigger, you could line the RIS with copper plate and line the pistol grip top with copper so you can move the grip up and down keeping contact throughout the rail.

[magic_golem]

hmm, i dont think that would be a very good idea, a little rain or even better Sweat and that would short out no?

[Jon L]

Just a quick request. Could someone with a sl9/sl9 stock please take some photos/measurements of the stock extender plates please.

[bankz5152]

hmm, i dont think that would be a very good idea, a little rain or even better Sweat and that would short out no?

 

 

Oops! lol. Didnt think of that. Was thinking of the hidden wiring on the SCAR stocks.

[Froztblade]

I'm thinking of doing this to my XM8, so I'm wondering with the trigger.

 

I don't know exactly how the selector switches work, and would it work if we shorted the original trigger switch (made it permenantly closed) and added in my own trigger switch further down the wires would it allow you to use the original selector switch *except safe obviously*

 

You still need a safe, so you just put another manual switch somewhere else on the circuit, can just use any normal switch (Lighting switch etc.)

 

But would there be any way of getting the selector switch to work with full/semi auto even on the new trigger system?

 

PS, really love the idea. It's a lovely design. Helped me get my motivation back for my own project =)

 

 

As for the abjustable pistol grip, if you have decent metalworking tools avaliable to you, just completely cut out the middle of the RIS rail you're going to mount the grip on then have the wire running through that cut in the RIS rail/body of the gun. That way no unsightly wires and you can still adjust the grip =)

[magic_golem]

well i think the plan wass to keep the origonal selector where it is, its mechanical so its independant of the trigger system.

[Froztblade]

Yeah, I have little-no understanding of the selector. So I don't really know how it operates except that the "safe" is a mechanical feature and not an electrical feature.

 

I don't know if Full/Semi auto is related to the Gearbox or related to part of the trigger system.

[Pendra]

On the G36, the fire selector switch does the following:

- On safe: It moves a small metal piece on the right side of the gun which physically blocks the movement of the trigger. If the G36 trigger unit has a side contacts as well, then it moves the selector plate to a position where the side contacts are not connected. Rendering accidental shooting absolutely impossible due to lack of power.

- On semi: The small blocking piece is moved out of the way so you could move the trigger. The selector plate moves to a position where the side contacts are connected (if exist on the trigger unit). The semi auto fire is controlled by the cut of lever. The top gear has a small protrusion on one point. When it hits the cut of lever, the lever moves upward and hits the trigger switch. The trigger switch moves upward, goes over the trigger and is pulled back by a spring. The connection is cut, and the motor is stopped.

- On full: The small blocking piece is moved out of the way so you could move the trigger. The selector plate moves to a position where the side contacts are connected (if exist on the trigger unit). The plate moves and fixes the cut of lever to an elevated position. The top gear can't hit it, so it can't move the trigger switch upward and backward. Therefore the motor is rotating as long as you pull the trigger.

 

So it is not actually the selector plate which creates the safe/semi/full auto. It is the small metal piece on one side and the cut of lever on the other side of the gearbox.

[magic_golem]

well i meant the fire selector system in general (cam and all) not the actual selector plate on the side of the gearbox

 

[Gooberz]

Just a quick request. Could someone with a sl9/sl9 stock please take some photos/measurements of the stock extender plates please.

 

It should be scaled just a little smaller than the real deal...

[Jon L]

I actually need the dimensions of the plates that are used to extend the stock.

[Jon L]

Bit of an update: Ive got a some spare g36 bits bought and paid for that i will enjoy butchering ;p Just waiting for them to arrive through the post. After having a discussion with a few people in the xm8 bullpup thread, Im leaning towards making the stock out of fiberglass. One of my mates dad is a boatbuilder by trade so am going to have a talk with him about how best to do the stock in fiberglass, and if to do it at all in fiberglass.

 

I have also been looking at suppliers of plastics and have come across a few possibilities. I thinking that it may be easiest to just buy some square rod and drill the inside out. ~Each of the following are described as having good impact resistance and mechanical strength. Also if i end up using a nylon plastic then it will blend well with the rest of the gun.

 

 

http://www.plasticstockist.com/index.cfm?p...amp;sector=Mg==

Polyethylene

Nylatron GSM

Acetal / Delrin

Ertalyte (PET)

[Jon L]

Right well i got to test the gun in game yesterday and whilst comfortable, It is a project that I can see will be needing to sink a fair wad of cash into, I was hoping to be able to do this on a fairly small budget, but play testing it, brought to light a few of the issues that would need a lot more work than I had anticipated. So until I have both the time and money to get the project finished, this is going on the back burner. As I have already said before everything that I have done is completely reversible so I will have no problem changing everything back to its original state. Thank you to all that have added suggestions and given advice. Hopefully I will be able to complete this project soon.