Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Review of the Ares PPSH


Righty ho lets get on with this.

First off the box.




As you can see its a plane box with some small stickers showing a nice pic of the PPSH and the Ares logo, The only nice thing about the box is that they have included a handle which in my opinion any box that is bigger than a plastic bag but so light to be carried with only one hand needs one by default.




In the Box there was the HHSP, 1 Drum mag (Can be filled with about 1500 rounds), manual and a test tag with the FPS on it (mine was stated at 120.1 m/s 1.44j at 20c with 0.20 BB dated 10/03/10 tested by woody) I will not be able to test the FPS until I next go to a game.


Now the look of the gun.


The mag is made out of stamped steel with the only plastic showing is the top of the mag that butts up to the inside of the gun.






It has a manual winding wheel at the bottom of the mag for the normal high-cap fun.

The BBs are loaded by unscrewing the main nut at the back and sliding the latch away.






This exposes the insides of the mag (easy for loading and maintains but will more than likely be a pain to reload in the middle of a game {but with 1500 rounds I cant see many people reloading mid game}).

There looks to be plenty of room inside to add a motor and a sound switch to the top of the mag (and I hope someone comes up with a sound activated mag for this*)

Edited by John Dee
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now for the gun it’s self.


As you can see the wood is a nice dark brown and the upper receiver, trigger guard, back plate and mag release are all steel. The lower receiver, outer barrel, trigger, fire switch and rear sling point seem like aluminium or another alloy.










Over all the build quality is good and all the little miss-fits look to have been added on for a soviet quick job build.

The gun its self feels very sturdy but being a big man I will not try to use it as a seat.


The Battery bay.





As you can see to gain access to the battery bay you just have to pull down the round tab, this then allows you access to a button at the top to release the hole cover allowing it to swing away for full access.

Ares recommends you to use a 9.6V nun chuck battery, but I have also tested a 8.2v small and stick battery which also fits inside.

A small 9.6v will fit with some squeezing.

A small lipo will fit fine and with enough room to add a lipo status indicator (the small round tab also means that you can easily check on the lipo mid game as it is only a 1 second job to flick the tab down look for all green lights and then flick the tab back up.


From some test shots you will need a 9.6v battery or higher as it sounded as if it was struggling with the 8.2v batteries.




If this tag is correct then I will need to change the spring over before the first game.

After the game I will be able to comet on the performance of the gun and any problems that may arise.

Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem Sig


Some more info to add.


I was using a 11v lipo with standard 0.2 BB's


I have had a chance to do some indoor shooting (only about 8m so no info on the hop, accuracy or range).

The front iron site is fixed in to place and the rear only has movement from the wide to thin line ups, so we are using the most basic of the basic iron sites for this.


The blowback on this is just a bit lighter than TM's sopmod on single fire but similar to the TM sopmod on fully auto.

The movement of the bolt when firing is a nice site and adds to the sound of the gun shooting.


I fired around 50 shots with a mix of both single fire and fully auto, the drum mag was able to keep up with the high rate of fire from the lipo and I did not see any shots fly off in unexpected directions.


One of the main traits I have come away with this gun is the sound of it shooting, for a start is is one of the loudest AEG I have come across and it is missing wwwr thwap sound of most AEG's with more of a wwr crack clunk coming from the gun (I will try to add a sound of this for you).


I suspect that it won’t take long for people to recognise the sound mid game as it is quite a distinctive sound.


Another helpful function of this gun is that pulling all the way back on the bolt allows the gun to be put on safety and also allows the spring to decompresses.

Edited by John Dee
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

How many BBs can the drum mag feed before needing a rewind?


In the videos I've seen, the large button for releasing the upper receiver from the lower seems very light. Would you say it'd be easy to accidentally release the upper receiver during frantic skirmishing or such?


Can the blowback be deactivated without modification?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well some more info.

I have played 2 games so far and the only problem I came across was that every 3rd shot went up in fully auto but I suspect that has more to do with the fact that I am using 11v lipo and need a harder hop rubber to keep up with the rate of fire. The range was good and happily kept up with other guns shooting 350fps on the site.

The back plate that keeps it closed is very stiff and needs quite a bit of presser to release.

I was shooting about 200 to 300 rounds before rewinding but I have not tested to see how many shots I can get before I need to rewind the mag.


The build of the gun is rock solid (and a pain to dismantle). I have no problems with the build quality and I can see any weak points in the design of it.


By the end of the day the gun jammed and when I had taken it home it turned out that the leaver that pulls the slide for the blow back had cracked off (this looks more like metal fail then part stress) but this means that I have go in to the gear box.

The outcome is that removing part 14 disables the blowback but still allows the gun to shoot fine.

I have found that all the bearings are 8mm metal, The 2 near the motor are ball bearings bushes and the other 4 are solid metal bushes. The trigger uses a cheery switch which I prefer over the normal leaf design you get in most guns. The fire selector looks to me mechanical rather that electrical and the plate on the side of the gear box looks like it can be removed to lock the gun in single fire

Link to post
Share on other sites

No the part was broken on the 2nd scermish.

I have removed the part part and the gun still works (it has just lost its blowback funhon).

The brake looks to be a pre existing fracture in the metal. Unless more brakes in part 14 happen in other ppsh then I will think of this as a one off fault.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

All I know is the HP is like Pew....Pew....Pew.....Pew.....Pew... and the ARES is like BBBBBBBRRRRRRRRPPPPPP(AKA firing rounds is so fast its like one sounds)


I have Hp PPSh and i think its way better than ares, because it doesnt have the blowback(saves battery). Also i dont like blowback much because it breaks ur gun much faster than a gun with no blowback. Its true that HP PPSh has lower rate of fire, but it can easily do the same rate of fire that Ares one with the 11.1v Li-po.

Link to post
Share on other sites

im very glad i got a HP version, im handy with a gearbox so when my bits get out of customs it will have a Rof much more appropriate for it. as for the ares version, usually im happy to deal with the poor internals for the nice externals but the complete lack of compatibility with non ares parts (hop unit &gearbox case) makes it a no brainier for me.

HP takes off the shelf parts.i see that as only being good..bespoke parts are retarded.

Im amazed at how much press Ares and the other big gun names are getting these days,on youtube and then subsequently forums, since the ares came out hardly anything has been said about the hexagon version.


oh yeah and electric blowback is the airsoft equivalent of putting playing cards on your bicycle wheel to make more noise...pointless.


But really nice to see a thorough review with a good set of pictures, cheers to the OP. i might Do one for the Hexagon one although as its off the shelf parts its pretty obvious how to take it down.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...

hi,i have the same gun with with same test date on the tag(and by woody).took it out for first time to day(only got 2 days ago)

using 8.4v mini battery,gun shot fine until afternoon when blow back stopped working.(was only using single shot at cqb site)

part 14 the little l shape sledge that is the blow back has snapped.i think the problem is this part is cast pot metal and the fake bolt that springs forward is stamped steel.the square edge of the steel bolt just acts like a shear on to part 14.

ares really need to change part 14 to a machined steel part.i have left it with my local gun tech to remove whats left of part 14 as i can see this part being a problem unless a more robust part is produced.

part 14 is the only problem i have with this gun.the finish of the gun is good and the hop is awesome.


if anymore owners have the part 14 problem please post on here incase ares are reading.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.