vilerk Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 To start off, I hate V2s and their ridiculous motor housings, but I'm the team tech, so I have to deal with it... On two guns I'm servicing, a JG M4 and a CA MP5, I've broke all of their motor connectors because I think I didn't place the wires properly. The way I'm placing the wiring, it causes the motor to be pushed up all the way(motor height adjustment off) and rendering the motor unable to cycle. Can anyone give me a pic of the correct configuration for the wires, or at least tell me the correct way to put them? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
Tinkerton Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 The base plate that holds the motor in place SHOULD have a route in it for one of the wires to go through, unfortunately most of the time its trial and error, but if there's just too much wire down there then pull some through into the upper receiver so you've got less to play with. I feel your pain about the v2 gearboxes, v3 all the way! If you've got some spare motors you can change the metal bits with the motor tabs on them easily enough, remove the springs that hold the brushes on, then remove the brushes, then get a pair of pliars and remove the spring post with brute force. Unscrew the screw if there is one, then change over the broken peice and tap the spring post back in, job done Link to post Share on other sites
Tinkerton Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Double post, apolagies. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 To start off, I hate V2s and their ridiculous motor housings... Seconded! As Tink' said, a bit of trial-and-error is required (mostly error at first!). Only 'tip' I can offer is to route the wires up/down the grip on the opposite side to the corresponding connector tab on the motor, so you have less of a bend to make to get the connector on. This is only really relevant to grips that have that annoying raised 'ridge' running up the back and/or front. You can grind away any excess plastic of course, to make more room for the wires. Link to post Share on other sites
ertgunner Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 I find it better to run the wires down one side of the grip rather than both sides sometimes. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 I do that on some, but with some models, you may need to grind a section out of the forward part of the motor plate, to allow the wire to pass through the side. Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 Thanks for the help guys! Turns out on the JG, both wires do go on one side, so now it works perfectly. I've also replace the motor connectors with 3/16" from the local electronics shop, so everything's good now. Thanks again! Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 If you have the choice/option, a better bet is 'ring' terminals, that attach with a small screw to the motor end-plate. I've seen them on a couple of AEGs, but can't remember which. Link to post Share on other sites
The General Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 If you have the choice/option, a better bet is 'ring' terminals, that attach with a small screw to the motor end-plate. I've seen them on a couple of AEGs, but can't remember which. G&P does this. Link to post Share on other sites
JackD Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 Is there a better motor housing for the version 2? It really is absolute ######! The version 3 has a nice cradle to go into, surely it's possible to engineer something similar for the version 2 and a suitable grip to house it in? The number of times I've heard a nasty sound from the motor where it is not engaging the pinion gear properly due to the poor design! Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted March 12, 2011 Report Share Posted March 12, 2011 Is there a better motor housing for the version 2? It really is absolute ######! The version 3 has a nice cradle to go into, surely it's possible to engineer something similar for the version 2 and a suitable grip to house it in? The number of times I've heard a nasty sound from the motor where it is not engaging the pinion gear properly due to the poor design! I totally agree, but the engineering challenge is considerable. As I understand it, M4/M16 airsoft pistol grips already tend to be plumper than their real steel cousins, in order to fit the motor inside. A few brands, VFC comes to mind, boast of pistol grips that are thinner and more R.S.-like. Don't know how they achieve that. Any which way, finding room for the motor AND a sturdy cradle inside the grip isn't going to happen soon, I fear. I'm no engineer, but I imagine you'd have to redesign the cross-section of the current motor, thereby creating proprietary parts. OR... you could redesign the grip to accommodate the cradle, but then the outside of the grip would be totally unlike R.S. G&P M120s were for a long time unobtanium. Finally, they are finally back in stock and I have one on order. I hope/presume it will have the screw terminals, just like the one that came in the grip of my Sentry. Link to post Share on other sites
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