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Pistol Decisions


Airsofty

  

34 members have voted

  1. 1. Which pistol do you like better?

    • WE Browning Hi-power
      1
    • WE Hi Capa 5.1 Dragon Type B
      1
    • TM Desert Warrior 4.3
      32


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But either way there is nothing wrong with the 1911 mag, it is only the people that don't understand how to look after them that cause the issues, i have never had a TM 1911 mag run out of gas before bbs on a normal day in normal conditions.

 

Then perhaps you could share how to look after them so they don't run out of gas? Perhaps it is down to the definition of a normal day under normal conditions. But I skirmish all year round and using green gas in a 1911 mag at around 5 degree C I rarely get past 16 BB's before the gas runs out when speed tapping. To me that is normal use under normal conditions for at large part of the year. But then again I also use a PGC slide and frame kit. Please tell me how to look after my mags so they don't run out of gas before all BBs are fired because I don't believe it is possible.

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' timestamp='1304504177' post='2450665']

5 degree C

Well there's your problem. Even the manual states a minimum 15-20C for normal operation. While this is for 134a, temp wise, that's about 12-17C for propane. Under that and you're chugging propane under 100psi. Take off your metal slide and put the plastic stock one on also use a stock recoil spring.

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You think? I was under the impression that it had to do with people that didn't understand how to look after their mags. Oh well, I might just stick with a hi-capa or USP who both are able to empty their load of BB's before running out of gas at said temperatur. Did I mention something about the physical size of the mag? I'm not sure.

 

Anyway, for those of us living at the colder end of the temperate climate zone and skirmish outdoors all year round, large mags is a huge advantage. And yes sticking to a standard plastic slide is next to essential in order to be able to keep the gun running doing the winter. This is where WE guns fail as they are born with a rather heavy metal slide, which is not good for gas consumption and subsequently cooldown of the entire gas system. Also for many of the larger guns like the Hi-capa there is CO2 mags available, which allows for usage at even lower temperatures.

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The issue you have eel one is that you have a metal kit on the gun. This require more gas to operate, thus less shots per mag and increased cooldown from the metal body. Switch it out to the plastic body and take out the metal weights in the grips to reduce the cooldown they can have.

 

After that clean and lube all the parts of the operating mechanism at least once a month or after every game with spray lube to get the movement back in the parts. Finally why are you 'speed tapping' as you put it, a pistol should only be used for 2-3 shots here or there unless you are a player that gets his hits by emptying a magazine into someone until they call hit.

 

'FireKnife'

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I agree, the metal slide is a huge part of the problem, as I wrote above:

 

...sticking to a standard plastic slide is next to essential in order to be able to keep the gun running doing the winter...

 

However, the metal in the frame stores thermal energy that is transferred to the mag when you start to shoot and the mags starts to cool down. The liquid propellent needs heat from the surroundings in order to turn in to gas. A metal frame or metal weights stores more energy and transfers it faster to the mag than plastic, wood or air.

 

I also agree that keeping the operating mechanism clean and lubed, significantly increases the reliability and smoothness of operation of the gun and therefore also helps to keep a healthy gas consumption, but that has nothing to do with the maintenance of the mags. It is solely a question of gun maintenance. Keeping the gas route connector seal clean and making sure the mag is not leaking propellent has to do with looking after the mag. Trigger mechanism, internal and external hammers, springs, valve knocker, plungers, cylinder, cylinder head and bucking all relates to the gun and all have influence on the guns performance and gas consumption.

 

A GBB needs as much love and care as a real gun if not more and that is where people fail most of the time. But I think we agree on most points.

 

As for the use of the pistol. I use it in confined spaces and often have the need of providing cover fire for my self, for taking out multiple targets and doing that with the M130 cylinder in my PTW I would punch holes in people so I switch to pistol in those situations as it does not hit people as hard on the short distance. Plus IPSC/IAPS shooting that by nature is events that require fast continuous operation of the trigger.

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I chose TM. For the simple reason that these are light and reliable. I run with a dropleg holster, so I had to keep that in mind. Plus, TM are exquisite shooter pistols even stock.

 

My pistol is a TM Hi-capa 5.1 (second hand). Lots of ammo, pretty decent range & precision for a pistol.

I often choose to charge in without fear, she won´t let me down in any situation. Mind you, I use only two magazines (31rds each), but with good accuracy, that´s no problem.

 

So if you´re considering a TM, by any means, go for it.

 

 

Plus, that desert tone looks the bussiness with MC. ;)

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I have the DW and I am very impressed in power and precision, using it with 134a gas, but I wish to upgrade some parts but not the full metal slide and frame. First I want to change grip with Hogue ribber grip but I don't know if putting off the weights under the original grip cause loss of balance. Anyone can tell me if using optional grip is possible to add weight to them?

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