British Forces weapons

[Darkmikey22]

Since most of these fall into lots of different categories, was easier just to start a new one covering them all.

Anyone is welcome to post aslong as it has seen use in or is issued within the British Forces Or UKSF. 

 

My British collection so far. 

 

Law 66

L115A1

L100A1

L85A2/L123A2

l85A2 TES

L128A1 shotgun

L74A1

L91A1

L7A2 GPMG 

L108A1

L1A1

Colt model 715 (C7)

L119A1 SFW

L119A1 CQB

L92A1 embassy seige. 

L131A1 

L105A2

L9A1

L85A2 (3 Para 2008)

Colt model 725 (C8)

L105A1

L22A2 

L86A2

[PureSilver]

Lovely stuff. Can you give us a bit of detail on what the replicas are based on and what's been done to modify them? I remember that L7A2 being a particular labour of love.

[Darkmikey22]

On 10/24/2022 at 1:41 PM, PureSilver said:

Lovely stuff. Can you give us a bit of detail on what the replicas are based on and what's been done to modify them? I remember that L7A2 being a particular labour of love.

Yeah sure. 

So first up we have both the shotguns.

L128A1 which is a based on a M1014 combat shotgun. 

Was brought in during operations in Afghanistan, and believe its still in service. 

This model is the cheap DE m56 model. 

Planning on doing some work to this to make it a bit more realistic and less plastic looking. 

 

Next up is the L74A1, which is a M870 shotgun. The SAS used both this short and long versions. Was brought in around the 80's and was still seen in use a few years back for door breaching in Afghanistan. 

This model is the G&P version, and I've added the folding stock and torch handguard. 

The standard end cap was removed and replaced with a genuine one that allows a sling swivel onto it. 

Some work to do in this too, but the quality is far superior to the DE. 

[Darkmikey22]

Next up is the 2 Sig pistols

These are Sig P226. 

One is the L105A1 and the other is the L105A2. 

The difference between the 2 visually is the A1 is the non railed version and the A2 is railed. 

The A1 was used by the SAS in the late 80s to early 90s. 

The A2 was brought in on a UOR (Urgent Operational Requirement) when we went into Afghanistan. The MoD at the time were looking at replacing the ageing browning HI power for something more modern. But the tender hadn't been released. So the sig was used as a quick fix for a short duration before we finally opted for the Glock 17 Gen 4. 

Both these pistols have full guarder kits and steel outer barrel.

The railed version has the full tune up kit and steel external parts. The non railed is still to be worked on. 

The A1 boasts a real surefire torch, real early west german grips and early style sig rear sight. 

Both surefire and grips took alot of work to fit. 

 

Only work to do on these is on the uppers. Both are U.S marked, where the British ones came straight from sig Europe. So trades will be filled then possibly cerakoted  

[Darkmikey22]

L1A1 SLR

This is the original King Arms version. 

This has had alot of work and real parts fitted. 

Real parts fitted;

* stock & butt plate

* rear sight

* cocking lever

* top dust cover

* carry handle

* handguard

* sling and sling mounts. 

 

The work done, has had a steel front sight/gas block made. Steel flash hider made. The receiver has been stamped in places with matching serial numbers. Same goes for the fake bolt. 

Only thing left is to have a steel barrel made. 

Not pictured is I've managed to convert real slr mags to fit and hold the king arms internals and feeds fine. 

[Darkmikey22]

L9A1 Browning HI power MKII

 

This was the WE version. 

This was made some years ago long before WE released their MK3 model. 

 

for this MK2 build I removed the original gp35 style rear sight. Filled the gap with quiksteel, then smoothed down the upper to match the slimmer (later) profile. 

I then added a genuine sights, sling loop and real mk2 grips. 

I then went and had the correct L9 markings added to both upper and lower. 

Only issue was they were supposed to fully engrave it. But wires got crossed and they only laser engraved it. But will just have to live with it till I purchase a MK3. 

[Darkmikey22]

SA80 Family

 

To start is my ICS L85A2.

In airsoft this is refered to as the "Afghan spec". But on official paper work it's actually known as the L85A2 TES (theatre entry standard). 

Boasts correct;

* replica surefire flash hider

* LLm01

* Grip pod

* DD rail

* Riser mount

* Acog with wing mount. 

 

ARES L85A2 (2008 3 para variant)

This version  comes with a genuine HK LLM01 adapted hand guard. This was only seen for a short period with some units before the DD rail was adopted. 

This rifle is based off a mates unit who served with the paras. So all labels and marks are exactly as placed on his rifle during his tour. All I did was change the butt number. 

Then weathered the he'll out of it and spent alot of time making the susat look real. 

 

ARES L86A2 LSW

Apart from weathering, this is completely standard and has had little work done. 

 

ARES L22A2

This wasn't working and required a few parts. But they're all sorted. 

Also has a genuine HK grip as used on the real counterpart. 

Then do e the usual weathering to both body and susat sight. 

Also made a batch of correct UK weapon stickers for the SA80 and SUSAT. 

 

ARES L85A2/L123A2 UGL

This is still on my to finish list. The rifle itself needs alot of work. The launcher on the other hand has had the end of the launcher lathed down to resemble the real end and can now correctly fit the genuine dust cap.

I've also had a real LLM01 pressure switch holder fitted, and re worked the side rail and bolts. 

I'm looking at getting the trades removed and having correct ones re laser engraved. 

Then will get the same weathering treatment as all the others. 

 

Then below those are the stickers I had made to replicate the HK markings on the rear of the receivers and the QR codes.

Also a better look at the weathering on the susats. 

 

 

[Murdoc]

Nice!

Hardly wait to finish my wood SLR carbine (made from JG SA58)!

[Darkmikey22]

Thank you. That will looks good. 

 

Next up

Colt model 715 

Colt model 725

 

Model 715, later known as the Diemaco C7

This is more well known for use by the SAS during GW1. 

But the later variant is also used by path finders, paras and royal marines. 

What makes this stand out is the fact it has Colt export markings, an A1 style rear sight, yet an A2 brass deflector. Other thing is that it has an A2 style lower with full auto. The U.S versions originally only came with the burst option. 

My build uses a G&P M733 Upper along with a very old discontinued Guarder m16 civilian lower. As all other airsoft m16 lowers are either A1 types or marked Burst.

Has a steel barrel and front sight. Has a real m203 upper and quadrant sight. Still on the look out for the old school A2 metal trap door butt plate. 

 

Model 725, later known as Diemaco C8

This version is very close to the Colt 723, but the 725 was made by diemaco. 

My build is a M733 body, which at the moment is incorrect as its an A1 style lower with the auto markings. Now have been told they did also come with A1 types. But only ever seen A2, so will stay as it is till I get a blank lower engraved. Also got a steel barrel & front sight. Real slim AR handguard, Old school metal stock and HAO Diemaco locking ring

Both of these have had the uppers stamped and fake bolts engraved as the real ones are

Edited October 27, 2022 by Darkmikey22

[PureSilver]

On 10/26/2022 at 10:18 PM, Darkmikey22 said:

L1A1 SLR

This is the original King Arms version.

These are all gorgeous guns. Are you thinking about picking up the forthcoming full-steel version of the VFC GBBR?

[Darkmikey22]

9 hours ago, PureSilver said:

These are all gorgeous guns. Are you thinking about picking up the forthcoming full-steel version of the VFC GBBR?

Cheers bud. 

It looks amazing, but got my eye on a few others and getting other projects finished first. 

But would be nice to do a captured argie rifle. 

[Radford343]

Amazing collection! I love the detailed explanation of the different guns, it's clear you're invested into making these as "clone correct" as possible. Awesome

[Darkmikey22]

L119A1 SFW & CQB

 

Both of these are AEG's

So lets go from tip to toe....

With the SFW first then CQB

 

BARREL

SFW

The barrel on this is a rare (unknown brand) Steel with stampings. The heavy section of this barrel is a collar and can be removed, so had a more accurate collar made.

The flash hider unfortunately for now is a TM aluminium one, where i am hoping to be able to source 2 steel 14mm negative flash hiders for both of these.

Gas block is an original Army Code steel one, not the later Warlord tactical one. This also has a real circular type sight post fitted.

  

CQB

This has just a standard G&P barrel on for now, but do have a steel Guarder barrel waiting to go on. this is once ive managed to source a steel flash hider as mentioned above and also a steel type front sight block, as the one fitted at the moment is just a standard G&P one with the bayonet lug removed as per the real thing.

 

Both rifles have real AR end caps fitted along with the Guarder Real delta rings.

 

RAILS 

Both rails are genuine KAC ones, however they are actually different!

The CQB has a standard type fitted, where as the SFW has the UK spec fitted.

Now the difference is, that the standard type only has one screw located on the top rail at the back to retain against the delta ring teeth.

On the UK spec type, they also have one fitted on the lower rail to allow for the weight of the UGL, so it wont fall off if the delta ring is caught or slid back.

 

All panels and grips are genuine KAC ones.

 

RECEIVERS

The SFW one is an original dragon red, which comes engraved with correct markings from new. The CQb however is a G&P which has had to be engraved.

Both have the correct key hole cast marks added along with the correct rail adaptions done.

The alterations are: 

Angle added to front section of rial.

Extra slot added at rear of rail.

the rail sides at rear have been made shorter.

A drop/angle added at rear just above the carry handle.

 

They both have the G&P small steel parts fitted.

 

GRIPS

The Sfw has a Guarder large AR grip fitted. these are nice for the larger hand guys like myslef, and is more realistic looking along with accurate markings. only down side is that unlike its real counterpart, it doesnt have the trap door on the bottom leaving the standard AEG motor plate visable.

The CQB has the G&P storm grip, which I find ok but not comfortable. This is since the sides are flat, not rounded like the Guarder. It's also missing markings. only saving grace is that it simulates the trap door like on the real.

I did try to alter a spare to fit the Guarder, but its too different and would require extensive modding to point of it been unusable.

Just wish someone would make a more accurate one for a AEG.

 

STOCK/TUBE 

So both stock tubes on these are the G&P ones, with the HAO canada type locking rings on (not pictured)

The SFW has a real Diemaco sling plate added, where the CQB now has a real magpul ASAP plate (not pictured also)

Both stocks are real with real butt pads, however the SFW has the correct Diemaco textured stock. The CQB has the normal CAR type stock. 

I do also have a spare Warlord tactical butt pad, and tbh, its pretty close to the real one.

 

SIGHTS

SFW has a genuine Diemaco D.I.S carry handle, where the CQB has a genuine Matech BUIS, but a cheap clone TA01 ACOG for now. 

 

The CQB also has a G&P PEQ2 fully working for now, but am looking to upgrade in the future to the PEQ15 along with trying to source the replica Surefire suppressor and 660C scout torch 

 

[Darkmikey22]

MP5s.....

 

Altought the Brtish designations are:

L92A1 for the MP5A3

L91A1 For the SD version 

 

Both of these are the Classic army AEG versions.

I'm not a fan tbh, if money was permitting I would rather GBBR versions.

 

The L92 is a correct setup of the MP5's used during the Iranian Embassy siege. 

it has a genuine mount and torch, which is the streamlight SL20. Most people get this wrong and say they are maglites....... this is not the case!. Maglites came later with a special mount that had them mounted underneath the slim A3 handguard, which was the precursor to the later surefire handguard. 

As for the rest of it, there have been a few changes. Drilled out the body pin holes to fit real push pins. A steel Guarder cocking lever and custom steel tube made.

The rear site is a steel upgrade along with a Guarder steel early trigger (not pictured). Also a steel front sling loop and early steel flash hider fitted (not pictured). 

A special adapter had to be made to fit the real A3 slim handguard. With the classic army/Tm and similar clones, the receivers are a tad too short. Where the WE/VFC GBBR will fit real grips no problems. 

 

The L91 is pretty much standard, other than adding a genuine surefire torch and L.P.E sd mount onto it. 

The scope isn't quite right, but left this on for now till I source the correct Aimpoint scope.

The scope fitted at the moment is a Guarder 4x28  tactical scope (NB-28), which is a clone of the Hensoldt Z-24 scope mounted to MP5 & G3 platforms.

 

[Darkmikey22]

L115A3

 

This is the ARES AW338 spring version.

It's all pretty much standard at the moment, needs some work internally.

Externally its been covered in tan SCAPA tape, as was done in afghanistan. Added some ranging numbers which was also seen on tour.

I also managed to source the correct flash hider for this. I know ARES did do one similar for their Stryker range, but the dimensions made it look fatter than it should. 

I've added extra serial number stamps on the bolt and handle as is done on the real thing. sorted out the proof mark too.

 

In the process of buying the correct scope and mount, so that will be next.

Then after that I'm going to speak to a guy who 3D printed the NVG rail that attaches to the front of the body. see if i can make it fit mine.

So by later this year this should be complete.

 

[Darkmikey22]

SCOPES

 

So last few months have been working on making some of the airsoft clone sights like the SUSAT's look more realistc.

I've owned at somepoint every brand of SUSAT out there. And I can safely say that the ARES are the best in external quality as you're going to get.

The G&G one is ok, and also has a working red reticle. But still can see it's a clone a mile away. The other clones I personally would never touch again with a barge pole. 

Now I understand that the ARES is the most expensive, where some people are restrained by finances, or aren't interested that much in accuracy, which is fine. But if you have the money, and you do like the realism, then I would strongly suggest the ARES. 

 

Now in terms of weathering, they do take a bit of work to look right. 

I've had to strip the original finish back in places, only to then add a layer of thick black gloss paint back onto it. 

Because on the real ones, they used to get repainted with a paint called suncurite 259, until mid 2000s when they realised it was toxic...

But the suncurite was quite thick, and was just brushed on with a normal paint brush. So replicating that wasn't too hard. 

So when i came to do this i would paint it on, weather it, paint it on again. this would be to build up the layers as some SUSAT's would be lumpy from refurb where they repainted over the old without removing it. 

Once i had got it where i kinda liked it, I would then pick if i wanted a unit colour and store number (refered to as a BUTT number). then I would weather it away to look old. On two of my SUSAT's, ive made them look recent with the new QR codes (as posted up on this thread before).

then would cover with a coat of clear matt varnish, ot the aluminium will go dull very quickly. 

 

What I am working on next, is the circular Gold radiation and date stickers that sit on the underside.

 

Next up is the ACOG.

This is a china clone TA31 with correct markings and had the RMR rear section. Added A clone wing mount. 

Only thing I've really done to it, is used dry transfer letters. Because on the real UK issued ones, they either came with IW/LSW for most infantry weapons like the SA80's and LSW's, or just LMG when they were mounted to things like the L110 minimi.

The size is a bit off but close enough.

 

This one is still a work in progress.

This is a Daves Custom Airsoft 3D printed 6X ACOG.

Externally its pretty good, but you do have to butcher a clone 4x acog to fit inside. its not pretty but it works.

So here I've added some more smaller dry transfer numbers to make up the serial number, added the butt number. Also added a QR code as they are mounted on the real thing.

Still got a few bits to do to this to get it looking almost there, like adding a plastic lens over the front and rear sections. Also need to make the little extender bit that sticks out from the rear, and to add some clear plastic over the red section on the rear section to bring it level. 

 

Would like to get my hands on the ARES LDS sight at some point in the near future too.

 

  

[judgeman]

These guns are absolutely *fruitcage* beautiful.

I will regret selling my King Arms FAL till the day I die.

[Darkmikey22]

L7A2 GENERAL PURPOSE MACHINE GUN 

WARNING.... EXTREMELY LONG READ!!!
I've tried to keep this as short as possible without losing too much needed info. A even deeper version will have a page made with a link posted in weeks to come, which will also focus on the early FN and newer HK versions. 

This is a complete custom build, made of full steel, and is currently 99.9% accurate to a real L7

I know that for some of you, who have seen some of this build before, we’re covering old ground - but please don’t run away just yet!
 
Now, with the final piece of my puzzle, an accurate custom made steel barrel arriving. I've decided it was time to sort it all out, and refresh the build for a more informative experience. And to help explain why the L7 isn't just another M240..... 

Also, having done so much research over the course of this project, I’d thought it was time to share some of what I’ve learned and hopefully shed some light on why the changes I’m making were necessary. I’d also like this post to be able to aid others in their builds, and to hopefully shine a light for those with a particular eye for detail upon the things that might otherwise be overlooked.

So, let’s begin.

The basis for this project was originally an Inokatsu’s M240B. However, over time, this changed, and I had to have a completely new body and barrel made due to the amount of differences. The old inokatsu bits ended up being used in exchanges of parts.

So as I got thinking about making a British variant, I did decide to do a bit of light reading (so I thought) - and I was completely astonished by just how much history surrounds the GPMG.

So, for the history lesson!

THE FN MAG 58

The first Fabrique Nationale d’Herstal (FN) MAG was designed in the early Fifties by a guy called Ernest Vervier. It combines the trigger mechanism and belt feed system from the WWII-era German Maschinengewehr 42 (MG42) with a more updated take on the gas-operated mechanism from the WWI-era American Browning Automatic Rifle (M1918 BAR). It was called the MAG 60-20, later the ‘MAG 58’; MAG being the acronym for "Mitrailleuse d'Appui Général’ or “Mitrailleuse á gaz”, French for ‘General Purpose Machine Gun’, and “58” denoting the year production commenced.

The 3 primary MAG variants were:
• MAG 60-20 Infantry version
• MAG 60-30 Fixed aircraft version with either left or right feed
• MAG 60-40 Coaxial version

Specifications:
• Calibre: 7.62x51mm NATO
• Action: Gas operated, open bolt
• Feed: NATO M13 ammunition belt or the non-disintegrating DM1
• Weight: 10.9kg (24Ib)
• Length: 1,232mm (48.5 inches)
• Rate of Fire: 625 - 900 rpm
• Muzzle Velocity: 838m/s (2,749ft/s)
• Range: 800m (2,625ft, light role) - 1,800m (5,905ft, sustained fire role/tripod mounted)

THE L7

The original British variant of the MAG 58 (technically the MAG 60-20 T3), the L7(A1), was brought into service in 1957 and produced by FN. Then in 1962, under license by FN, the Royal Small Arms Factory (RSAF) in Enfield Lock, took over production making further improvements and incorporated into the L7(A2) (MAG 60-20 T6). In 1984 the RSAF became Royal Ordnance Plc., which four years later was bought out by BAE Systems, resulting shortly thereafter in the closure of the original site. After that, it fell to several sub-contractors, notably Manroy Engineering (now FN UK), to oversee both the production of spare parts, and general refurbishment of the GPMGs until mid-2008.

In late 2008, Heckler & Koch were given the contract to produce all spare parts and accessories, having had the task of producing new barrels for the gun since 2003. In 2011 HK won an additional three year contract for a mid-life improvement program (MLI). In 2008-09 the MoD solicited tenders for manufacture and support of the GPMG; by this point the original design copyright owned by Fabrique Nationale d’Herstal had expired. The three main respondents were HK, FN, and Manroy. The tender required the entrants to submit guns for testing, with HK’s version being the most publicised. Finally, after years of testing in the laboratory, training and in the field, in late 2014 the MoD announced that HK had won the contract to produce the L7s and their spares for the next few years.

The L7 GPMG, nicknamed “the General” or “the Gimpy” (pronounced ‘Jimpy’), has seen every British military engagement since entering service, including action in Aden, Borneo, Rhodesia, Northern Ireland, Oman, Falklands, Bosnia, Kosovo, Sierra Leone, Afghanistan, and Iraq.

THE MAG 58 WORLDWIDE

Over 200,000 examples of the MAG series and other variants have been used by more than 80 other countries over a similar period under different designations.

For example:
• Austria - 7.62mm MG MAG/Pz
• Argentina - 7.62 ametralladora Tipo 20-60 MAG
• Brazil - M971
• Canada - C6
• India 7.62 2A1
• Indonesia - SPM2
• Republic of China - CQ 7.62x51
• Sweden - KSP 58
• Taiwan - Type 74

THE M240

America did eventually jump onto the bandwagon, but relatively late and not until it had designed its own version of the MAG series. Known as the M240, it was put in service in 1977 and was used only as a co-axial variant fitted to armoured vehicles. An infantry variant - the M240G - wasn't introduced until 1991 by the USMC as a replacement for the dated and unreliable M60. The US Army adopted the weapon in 1995 as the M240E4, later the M240B.  As in British service, several variants were to follow, including the M240C, M240D (E1), M240H (E5) and M240L, which is a new lightweight variant. Compared to the L7 the M240 infantry variant has only seen a few engagements mainly, Somalia, Kosovo, Afghanistan and Iraq (1991 and 2003).

THE PARTS

Like myself at first, many people don't realise just how different the L7A2 and M240 are, despite being the machinegun equivalent of siblings. After extensive research and months spent studying plans, photos and parts lists, I was left with a list almost an A4 page long of parts and work that would be needed to turn my M240 into an L7A2. Over the course of a few years, I gradually acquired all the parts necessary to complete the build. 

They were:

• Inokatsu original style replica flash hider
• Barrel washer
• Foresight & Foresight block (early type)
• Sling swivel
• Bipod with height adjuster
• Bipod retaining latch
• Gas block & gas plug replica
• Gas regulator
• Top cover
• Top cover plunger
• Top retaining bolt and castle nut
• Carry handle assembly
• Barrel release catch
• Cocking lever and knob
• Feed tray
• Ejection port cover
• Trigger Group retaining pin
• Rear sight aperture and slide
• Trigger grips
• C2 sight side mount
• Stock
• 50rd belt tin
• Sling

Later came things like my tripod, carry cases and all the other ancillary parts associated with the gpmg. 

As the build started to unfold, I took the opportunity to actually show you some of the major and minor differences between the L7 and the M240 parts, to help explain why I needed to change or alter so many of them.

Now, not just the parts, but even the body differences are quite drastic. 
• Rear sights
(M240 straight, L7 curved with finger grooves)

• Reinforcement for stock on side plates
(M240 bigger gaps, L7 more Reinforced)

• Cocking lever support bar
(M240 grooved, L7 more reinforced)

• Front trunnion
(M240 has a small ridge, L7 rounded)

• Gas tube
(M240 has large rear section, L7 slimmer rear and 2 vent holes. Also to note the L7 variant has grooves both sides to allow for an ambidextrous mounting of sling swivel. M240 will only sit on the left side)

• Barrel
(M240 is smooth behind Gas block, L7 has 2 grooves that allow for a better seating on Gas tube)

 

MARKINGS

The top row speaks for itself; the next row is the first important bit. 
The first two letters denote the country then factory; "BL" for ‘Belgium Liège’ (meaning the gun was made by FN), "UE" for ‘UK Enfield’ (meaning the gun was made by RSAF), Additionally, "HK"  for ‘Heckler & Koch’ along with their test batches will be engraved on all future GPMGs.

The next two numbers denote the year of manufacture, e.g. 75 for 1975. The possible combinations are 57-73 (BL), 62-88 (UE) and 08-11 12-present (HK).

The "A" prefix is a batch number and was just added to the sequential sequence to allow the 4 digit serial number to remain (e.g. A0001-A9999, then rolling over to B0001 if the production for an individual year exceeded 9999 guns). Then next the four numbers are the last four digits of the weapon’s serial number. Newer Heckler & Koch made examples have 6 digits followed by three proof marks.

The bottom row of numbers is the NSN (NATO Stock Number) for the weapon. The NSN is a 13-digit code used to identify more or less everything purchased by NATO forces. Individual components and whole weapons are listed (for example, the GPMGs carry handle alone consists of six individually-NSN numbered parts; the entire assembly is also listed as a single NSN). The weapons themselves are listed whole:

L7A2 - C1/1005-13-103-2524
L85A2 - C1/1005-99-250-9030
L119A1 - C1/1005-21-920-6546

BARREL MARKINGS

Early Barrels ( before HK) were stamped with a “L” designation along with the weapon’s serial number, which should be within 6” of the chamber on the right side using a 5-6mm (⅛”) stamp. This would normally be the weapon’s full serial (‘UE84 A2912’) and barrel calibre.

So the infantry barrel was designated L1A2.

My original barrel has been done, just need to get the new steel one done. 

The reason why barrels are normally stamped with the serial number is because each barrel is paired to a specific parent gun, and not supposed to be used with other guns. This is because of cartridge headspacing (CHS) matching between the barrel and body. So over time the barrel locking thread on the body wears, and to counter this various size locking nuts with different thread thicknesses are in use.
On the locking nut itself, there are some serrations that the barrel locking latch will use to keep the barrel from coming free, and these cause the latch to click repeatedly as the barrel is locked home. The number of clicks is important - the minimum is three and maximum is 7 - as it demonstrates whether the barrel nut is too worn. If the latch clicks fewer than three times, the barrel will not be held or locked sufficiently. If it clicks more than 7 times, then the thread on the gun has become worn and the locking nut must be changed for the barrel to stay positioned correctly. Because one gun may have to use barrel nut size 2, it may fit perfect on that gun, but it will possibly be too tight or too loose to fit onto another gun; hence, the pairing arrangement.

PAINTING

Early gpmgs were painted with a paint called  Suncorite 259. This was then changed in mid 2000s, having been phased out under new EU environmental regulations. All contractors - the likes of Manroy and HK - are now free to use their own firearm coatings, so long as they meet the standard, which in the UK is called ‘DEF STAN 80-56’. Mine was sprayed with what’s called ‘Small Arms Black’. However, I have also sprayed parts with Halfords satin black and can tell you there's not that much of a difference. 

BALANCING MARK

On British GPMGs they have a white line placed towards the rear right side of the weapon, called a balancing mark. The white line corresponds to the position the cocking handle should be in when ‘balancing’ the weapon. It acts as a visual guide to show where the working parts make contact with the second sear (the former being the safety sear). The safety sear was put in on later models to stop what’s known as a ‘runaway gun’, a condition where the bolt doesn’t engage the sear and the gun will fire uncontrollably without trigger input until the ammunition is exhausted, you have a stoppage, or bits of the gun begin to melt.

These would be placed from new or fresh refurb, when the weapon was balanced with it’s parent barrel, and its spare barrels matched. The mark can vary in size with Tippex or a white paint pen. The line itself will always be placed directly above the last rivet.

UNIT MARKS/BUTT NUMBERS

These are basic armoury numbers for quick counting and easy identification, and are normally referred to as “Butt numbers”. These are most commonly found on feed covers & buttstocks. The numbers are there for ease of retrieving a particular weapon from the rack. For example, L7A2 BL69A073249 could be rack number 55. It’s easier, when looking at a rack of 100+ weapons, to just grab the one with the big 55 number on it, instead of having to go through each weapon to check for the serial number.

These would often just be written on with a paint pen, but is becoming more common to see them done with a label machine. 

Other number/marks will include:
Vehicle or unit call sign, e.g. "10B", "33A", "24C" with the exception of "11" and "22" in an armoured battalion.
The number plate if mounted on a vehicle, as has been seen on some wmiks in afghan. 
"Sf(followed by butt number)" if part of a Support fire role (with tripod)
Zap number; the individual soldier’s casualty identification number, this is the first 2 letters of the surname and the last four from their service number. For example, Davis 25015598 would be DA5598. Some people had this written on a bit of scapa/sniper tape, which was wrapped around the stock just in case in Afghanistan, but it was not standard procedure.

Units have also been known to paint colours on the top covers. This is sometimes done to identify a company or squadron within a regiment, battalion or battle group. Coloured patches are normally placed on the top cover, and although it’s not commonly done, it is more often seen on L85s & SUSATs

The usual main colours are red, green, blue or yellow. 

I've kept mine simple, and just added the number "13". 
Originally I had it marked with red to symbolise A COY 3 PARA in afghan 2008. But later removed it. 

Barrels 
Some times the carry handle is marked to determine if its the main, spare or even blank barrel. Some are even marked with the weapons serial or sf number. 

I've added the number "1" to mine to determine its the main barrel. 

GEARBOX AND FEED SYSTEM

Having devoted so much of this thread to the externals, it's time to show the beating heart of the beast. The gearbox was originally built up when I purchased the M240. Since then I’ve had to replace a few bits due to general wear and tear, but this is how the internals stand at present:
Guarder SP110 mainspring
Ultimate piston head (ventilated hexachrome aluminium)
Systema Area 1000 v.3 cylinder head
Systema Area 1000 Teflon cylinder
Systema Area 1000 oilless 6mm bushings
Systema Energy v.3 tappet plate
Systema v.2 flat gear set
Systema Jet AK nozzle
TM AK hop-up chamber parts
Madbull Blue hop-up rubber
TM EG1000 short-shaft motor
TM 509mm (M16-length) inner barrel

It currently chronographs at 337fps with Blaster 0.20g BB’s; consistency is excellent and the range is wicked on 0.20's, although trying to get it to fire individual shots is very hard as it’s either safe or cyclic! I've kept the standard barrel on this and not upgraded it for the simple reason that I want to use it how a support weapon should be used. With work I could have it DMR accurate, but I like to harass a whole barricade, not just one person.

The inside of the Inokatsu is a fairly typical AEG gearbox; what complicates the gun is - as usual for box-fed airsoft guns - the feed system. I had originally wanted to use a G&P M249 auto-winding box magazine. Unfortunately, after receiving a donated one I found that the mechanism itself was just too big to fit into the smaller 50rd ammunition tin fitted to my gun. I looked at other types of box and drum magazines, but nothing stood out until a forum member approached me with a spare Echo1 M240 box magazine for sale. Having received it, I promptly ripped it apart for the feed mechanism. Unhappy with the wiring I decided to strip the G&P box for parts too, and soon a Frankensteinian monster was in the making.

The chief reason for trying to marry the G&P’s electronics to the Echo1’s mechanics was my decision to power the gun with a 9.9v LiFe. The Echo1’s harness is made of extremely thin wire, and I’m worried that the stress of long bursts of fire may cause it to overheat. The G&P harness is heavier-duty, and also has a circuit board with an integrated transformer to vary the battery’s high voltage to the lower voltage required by the winding mechanism’s motor. Usefully, the circuit board also continues to wind the magazine for a few seconds after you release the trigger, ensuring there are BBs fed for the next burst. I cut and bent a metal plate to act as a makeshift reservoir, and cut a rectangle in the side of it to hold the LiFe.

I'm still looking for other ways to store the battery, so this isn’t necessarily final. I also tried to think of a way to hide the feed tube, but there wasn't enough room to do so; for the moment at least I've had to stick with the feed sticking out the bottom. The feed tube may have been too big but the wiring wasn’t, so that has now been hidden after making a cut out in both the body under the feed tray and on the edge of the ammo box lid. Bear in mind that this magazine is really only a prototype and still under development. I need to make sure things work reliably, and I would like to simplify the wiring at some point before I make something more permanent

 

 

Hope you've enjoyed this build and all the info that makes the L7 unique, and you haven't fallen asleep yet. 

Thank you for taking the time to read.

Now for the finished item... 

 

[Murdoc]

On 2/6/2023 at 2:23 PM, Darkmikey22 said:

L119A1 SFW & CQB...

 

 

 

Soo, you think I have to mill out some material from there, at the side too? Thanx!

I already custom made the sling swivel; and cut, plus threaded the barrel. Next I will do this 45 degree job, but waiting for 45 degree end-mill.

 

[Darkmikey22]

58 minutes ago, Murdoc said:

Soo, you think I have to mill out some material from there, at the side too? Thanx!

I already custom made the sling swivel; and cut, plus threaded the barrel. Next I will do this 45 degree job, but waiting for 45 degree end-mill.

 

Yes bud. 

Here's a pic of 3 real uppers, you'll see the sides are really short and finished just after last groove. 

 

[Murdoc]

My one (still no correct optic  )

Engraving will be tricky, and will be after camo paint (laser engraving).

I finished with the markings: serial number and ID is my birth date and first airsoft game's date...

Edited May 26, 2023 by Murdoc

[Darkmikey22]

Looks good bud. 

The serial number is cool. 

 

The one you have as 2008-.......

That's The weapons nsn number. And is always 1005-21-920-6546

 

But up to you if you want to change it.  

Edited May 26, 2023 by Darkmikey22

[Murdoc]

2008-11-09 is my first airsoft game's date... so 9th november... but I will have one year to think about. I will spraypaint it in late summer (hot weather is ideal for extreme matte finish)... Next year I will make the natural ageing better, and after that the laser engraving (after engraving will have to repaint around the engraving with airbrush).

Here is the template made in Word. Online is not totall OK, hope if you download, it will be better (made in Word 2007'). You can edit it offline too...

Please if somebody make it better; re-share it here!

Edited May 26, 2023 by Murdoc

[chas]

On 5/25/2023 at 10:15 PM, Murdoc said:

My one (still no correct optic  )

 

Engraving will be tricky, and will be after camo paint (laser engraving).

 

I finished with the markings: serial number and ID is my birth date and first airsoft game's date...

Hey, man.

I don't know what kind of laser engraving you are going to get, but most only give you the type you already have with those phony USMC markings, barely taking the paint off and revealing the metal underneath.

If you want to get actually metal engraving, as in deep cuts, you can take your receiver to a metal engraver, the ones you hire to engrave sports trophies or hunting knives. The Diemaco logo will be extra though, as they will need to make a custom pattern.

However, if you get crisp laser surface engraving, you can then use the 9V etching method to get deep cuts into the metal. They are not as refined as the actual machined engravingsa on real gauns (or roller marks on Colts), but they look nice enough.

 

[Murdoc]

7 hours ago, chas said:

the type you already have with those phony USMC markings, barely taking the paint off and revealing the metal underneath.

No problem, because the original will be covered with quite thick layer of camo paint... I use Montana colors, because having about 15 years of experience (If using Montana as camo paint, I only paint in summer over 30 degrees, making extra dry and rought finish). After it I will use the gun for one year. After one year usage I will make some extra wear effect with >400 (or worn out 300) sand paper, steel wool, scrubbing sponge and 100% alcohol (Montana can be diluted with alcohol). After that I will separete the lower and go to laser engraving. I may rub a minimal paint (black or camo) inside the engraving. I may use some paint with my airbrush to cover the original letters if needed.

 

Laser engraving is by us less than 3 pounds/step. My one is 2 step. So terribly cheap. A professional engraver could make it; but it would cost at least 10-40× more. For me doesn't worth it.

 

Your methot is nice (I may try it on else, for example on a GBB pistol slide, or western rifle), however letters of the L119 script are too fine for that, plus a professional CNC cut sticker will cost more than the engraving.

Edited May 31, 2023 by Murdoc